Posted: 3/3/2002 10:59:21 AM EDT
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I am getting a 1911 built up for me. I would like to know what length, if any, is recommended for the guide rod and your reasoning. Reliability is my first priority, then accuraccy. Thanks! |
| The regular short one. Why? Because J.M. Browning designed it that way. I have heard that full length guide rods keep the recoil spring from kinking, but I think that's a solution in search of a problem. I've never heard of anyone having a problem with kinking recoil springs. But if anyone has any anecdotal evidence to share, I'm all ears. |
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Hey, c'mon. I manufacture guide rods! The only length differential (within model) I can comment on is whether to go flush with the slide on a bushing gun. I run a slightly shorter rod on a bushing gun, simply because I can do normal stripping (with my plug) and use a 1-piece guide. Comp'ed (or reverse plug) guns should have the 2-piece, with takedown hole, and run flush with the end of the plug. BB-I don't run a guide in my karry 45 because I 'pinch-check'. |
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Use a 2 piece on a bushing gun (Wilson #148.5 is excellent), remove front half of rod, take down in normal manner. Use a 1 piece with the reverse plug,,pull slide back, insert pin, push slide forward enough to remove slide stop, remove slide, lift rod/plug/spring out, slide barrel out front, ALL DONE. |
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Not trying to steal this thread, but I have a Springfield 1911 (the AR15.com LEGP). It has a screw in guide rod - uses an allen key. The gun functions fine without it but I haven't fired it that way. Am I just using a normal 2-piece guide rod when I take that out? I am new to 1911's so I haven't seen any other guide rods... |
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I agree with Big Bear, for a defensive pistol stick with the original plug, and don't use shock bufs in a defensive gun because if they split apart the pieces could jam your pistol. hock.gif For a target pistol a full length guide rod adds some additional weight, which is a good thing. |

