Posted: 3/4/2010 1:32:57 PM EDT
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I posted this in the 1911 forum and got jack squat so I thought I would try here. Thanks in advance if you can help a brother out.
So, I did my first bit of upgrades to my trusty Kimber by putting some night sights on it. I enlisted the help of a friend so tha tI would have second set up eyes on the process. I didn't have a front sight tool so I used a vice (cardboard coasters for buffers against the slide) and brass punch set to git 'er done. The front sight was a tough SOB. It started to eat a nylon punch so I switched to brass. It actually did a pretty good job of eating the brass punch but once I remembered that I had balls I was able to punch it out. Getting the new one in was equally difficult but we did it. The rear sight was a breeze so I was concerned that I did something wrong at first, but it looked good. Took it to the range the next day and the first shot was right in the middle of my little red bullseye! I promptly put the gun on safe, set it down and turned around for a high five from my accomplice. I took my time with several more shots and they were reasonably grouped based on my shooting abilities so I am calling it good. Two questions: 1) How do I get brass off of the front sight 2) Which loctite would be recommended (I want to put some on the front sight to help keep it in place, on the rear sight for the same reason and on the set screw for the rear sight)? I was thinking red for the two sights and blue for the set screw in the rear sight. Does that make sense or do you have different recommendations? |
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To remove brass marks, just soak a patch with a good copper removing bore solvent and put it on the stains to soak.
OR, you can stand the slide up in a jar or glass and pour enough solvent in to cover the area and let soak. For the sights, Loctite Red is more or less permanent, and removal will usually require heating the area up to around 300 degrees to get it to break down. For the screw, I'd use Blue, since the Red would make the screw very difficult to remove even with heat. You're only problem is going to be getting the Loctite into the sight dovetails since the tight fit will make it difficult. One trick is to put the Loctite nozzle hard against the sight dovetail and squeeze the bottle to try to force it under. There's also a very thin Loctite that's designed to creep into very tight joints. I "think" its Loctite Green, but it isn't as permanent a bonder as Red. |
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Quoted:
To remove brass marks, just soak a patch with a good copper removing bore solvent and put it on the stains to soak. OR, you can stand the slide up in a jar or glass and pour enough solvent in to cover the area and let soak. For the sights, Loctite Red is more or less permanent, and removal will usually require heating the area up to around 300 degrees to get it to break down. For the screw, I'd use Blue, since the Red would make the screw very difficult to remove even with heat. You're only problem is going to be getting the Loctite into the sight dovetails since the tight fit will make it difficult. One trick is to put the Loctite nozzle hard against the sight dovetail and squeeze the bottle to try to force it under. There's also a very thin Loctite that's designed to creep into very tight joints. I "think" its Loctite Green, but it isn't as permanent a bonder as Red. Thanks! |
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Quoted:
To remove brass marks, just soak a patch with a good copper removing bore solvent and put it on the stains to soak. OR, you can stand the slide up in a jar or glass and pour enough solvent in to cover the area and let soak. For the sights, Loctite Red is more or less permanent, and removal will usually require heating the area up to around 300 degrees to get it to break down. For the screw, I'd use Blue, since the Red would make the screw very difficult to remove even with heat. You're only problem is going to be getting the Loctite into the sight dovetails since the tight fit will make it difficult. One trick is to put the Loctite nozzle hard against the sight dovetail and squeeze the bottle to try to force it under. There's also a very thin Loctite that's designed to creep into very tight joints. I "think" its Loctite Green, but it isn't as permanent a bonder as Red. Note that this is warm enough to impact the glue holding the tritium vials in per another thread.. |