Posted: 4/17/2005 1:23:42 PM EDT
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Several people asked me how to fit an extended ejector. Although there are some nice tutorials online, I thought I would try my hand at doing a diagram. I'm going to assume anyone trying this understands how the ejector fits in the gun, and how to remove the old one. My focus here is to show where to cut angles for proper ejection. So, first things first. Inspect the ejctor. Many aftermarket ejectors have oversized studs. Make sure the ejector goes into the frame without excessive resistance. If you have to hammer it in there, realize it's possible that it will be too tight to fit flush with the top of the frame. The easiest thing to do is try one leg at a time, twisting it back and forth while inserting the leg. If it is too big, take off a little material and retry. Next, make sure there is not excessive casting flash on the bottom of the ejector, or where the legs meet the bottom of the ejector. If there is, file it away, or you will have a difficult time inserting the ejector flush. Before you do any cuts, it should look roughly like this:  Once you can get it in all the way with little trouble, you can make the relief cut in the front leg for the ejector pin. There are two methods. One is to simply drill through the hole in the frame. The second, which is the one I prefer, is to make a witness mark, and then pull the ejector back out. Then, using a VERY small round file, file a half round relief in the front of the front ejector leg. Re-insert, and look to see if there is enough clearance. Keep trying this until there is enough clearance. It's important to stay centered up and down, without over cutting, but cutting too deep is okay. The reason I prefer this method is because you avoid raising any burrs drilling into the frame. See the red arrow in the diagram.  After this, install the ejector, and drive the pin in. Drive the pin from the right side to the left. Doing it the other way will most like bend the pin. Next, we'll file the appropriate clearance angle. Using a file, file the front face of the ejector (see red arrow in following diagram. File this angle the same as the angle of the rear of the magwell. Make sure you put some tape on the tip of the file to avoid scratching up the magwell. This cut should not exceed 1/2 of the ejector face, and preferably closer to 1/3.  Now, looking from the top of the frame, file a 45 degree angle, as seen in the diagram. Put some tape on top of the frame to avoid scratching it, and consider using a safe sided file. This cut also need to be very shallow, as in 1/3 of the face.  When you look at the face of the ejector, it should look something like this:  When cutting these angles, make sure you take your time, and try to make sure you keep your file face squared up. If it's an extended ejector, and you make a mistake, cut it back square and start again. I hope this helps those who have IMed with questions. |
+1. Thanks for sharing on how to do this. 556man |
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I don't want to rock the boat here, but let me suggest an alternative method for the following reasons. If you use a drill, even a drill press, you have too much deflection and the hole will become oversized. You woild need a mill with an end mill in it, but even this isn't that commonly done except at the manufacturing level. take for instance Caspian. They install the ejector and then mill the hole through the frame and ejector in one shot. This gives the end mill the support it needs when it contacts the round leg of the ejector and prevents deflection. I am curious as to the small round file that is parralell, I have neve seen one the proper size for this.I would like to try tbis method as I can see it's advanages if you could locate the exact position on the leg to cut. Now, here is the method I was taught and use currently. It ensures a solid and positive fit as the hole is actually broached in the final step and the ejector remains tight. It's a chaep and easy way too. The gaga pin is a .062 under available through MSC for $1.62 http://pic3.picturetrail.com/VOL14/878560/1896455/91177375.jpg Begin by inserting the ejector into your receiver and insure that it sits flush and square. http://pic3.picturetrail.com/VOL14/878560/1896455/91177374.jpg Insert gage pin into the right side of the receiver through the ejector pin hole. Give it several firm taps with your hammer in order to mark the leg of the ejector. If the gage pin does not mark the leg clearly enough, there may be a bevel or taper on the end of the pin. You will need to flatten the end of the pin with a file or belt sander so the outer edge of the pin can make a semi-circular mark on the leg. Stainless pins need to be smoked up first. http://pic3.picturetrail.com/VOL14/878560/1896455/91177371.jpg Once you have this mark, use your triangular file to make a notch and remove about 90% of the material inside of the semi-circle. The second picture is exaggerated for clarity. http://pic3.picturetrail.com/VOL14/878560/1896455/91177369.jpg http://pic3.picturetrail.com/VOL14/878560/1896455/91177367.jpg Reinstall the ejector into the receiver and insure it is flush again. Hold it tightly in place and drive the gage pin through the hole, broaching the leg providing for a tight fit. NOTE: If it is exceptionally hard to get the pin through STOP! Pull out the ejector and see where material needs to be removed and do so. http://pic3.picturetrail.com/VOL14/878560/1896455/91177365.jpg http://pic3.picturetrail.com/VOL14/878560/1896455/91177362.jpg Install a roll pin and insure it is not protruding out of either side of the receiver. |
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Bill_Z, great advice! You're not rocking the boat, and God knows I'm no authority on 1911s. I made note of the fact that I do not like the drill method, and it's for the very reasons you stated. I would not attempt this on a mill, since you can never duplicate the set-up done at the factory. However, I have seen the drill press method advised by several notable sources (such as Ed Brown and Kings). This is why I included it. I have a question. Do you use a fresh gauge pin each time, and if not, how long does it hold up? |
| Depends on how well you take care of it. It's hard, so that means it is brittle. I have broken one by being a bit over zealous in broaching the leg. You just have to insure you remove most but not all of the material and then t=let the pin cut through the rest. At a buck and a half or so, it's no real damge to get an extra few to have around. |