[ARCHIVED THREAD] - M&P Trigger Job? (Page 1 of 2)
Posted: 1/15/2010 8:22:45 PM EDT
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I've recently bought myself a fullsize m&p in .40sw I have nothing against the trigger per say, but i feel theres always room for improvement. Among some guys online offering trigger jobs, theres a few how-tos, and the 3rd option is to send it back to smith and wesson for their 'performance center' package. What i'm wondering, is if anyone here has had a trigger job done, and if its worth it, or if i should just leave it as is. For what its worth, this gun will eventually be carried. Thanks guys. -Josh
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I've done 3 or 4 and they all were easy and turned out great http://www.burwellgunsmithing.com/M&Ptriggerjob1.htm |
| I did mine too using the Burwell instructions. It feels pretty good, but the M&P trigger has a fundamental design problem that means the trigger will never be as good as a Glock's. Oh, and if it were my CCW gun, I would not do any trigger work myself - send it to Burwell. |
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I use stones from an outfit called Boride Engineered Abrasives.
Here is their gunsmith sample kit, which has a pretty good array of stones in it. It's $41. I would also suggest something like a Swiss cut pillar file, for initial shaping of the sear. |
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I'd like to try the DIY, but a quick search yeilded me about 135 dollars for a set of stones... Where as the cost of the trigger job is less than that. Any suggestions on stones? check you local hardware store, or brownells.... http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/cid=0/k=stones/t=P/ksubmit=y/Products/All/search=stones http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=12610/Product/SHAPED_CERAMIC_STONES |
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I've done 3 or 4 and they all were easy and turned out great http://www.burwellgunsmithing.com/M&Ptriggerjob1.htm I recently finished doing my M&P40 using these instructions. I used a flat jewels file to "stone", and polishing wheels in a plug in drill for polishing/grinding. Also used vice grip to hold pieces. Trigger was very gritty when I 1st got it and would catch on the trigger pull. Now, there is no grittyness, trigger pull is a little lighter and reset is a little more noticeable. All parts now have a mirror finish and glide together. Rounding/polishing the firing pin plunger was key to getting a smoother pull. I had to buy a S&W M&P sight pusher ($125) to do the firing pin plunger. Also spend about $25 on some polishing wheels and polishing compound. Go slowly on the sear. File/stone and polish a little bit, fit and see how you are doing. I understand it's relatively easy to go too far. Very happy w/ how the trigger evolved over stock. It took about 3 different sessions to get it right. Also just ordered an Apex Tactical Hardened Sear, and see how that goes. |
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Quoted: Quoted: I've done 3 or 4 and they all were easy and turned out great http://www.burwellgunsmithing.com/M&Ptriggerjob1.htm I recently finished doing my M&P40 using these instructions. I used a flat jewels file to "stone", and polishing wheels in a plug in drill for polishing/grinding. Also used vice grip to hold pieces. Trigger was very gritty when I 1st got it and would catch on the trigger pull. Now, there is no grittyness, trigger pull is a little lighter and reset is a little more noticeable. All parts now have a mirror finish and glide together. Rounding/polishing the firing pin plunger was key to getting a smoother pull. I had to buy a S&W M&P sight pusher ($125) to do the firing pin plunger. Also spend about $25 on some polishing wheels and polishing compound. Go slowly on the sear. File/stone and polish a little bit, fit and see how you are doing. I understand it's relatively easy to go too far. Very happy w/ how the trigger evolved over stock. It took about 3 different sessions to get it right. Also just ordered an Apex Tactical Hardened Sear, and see how that goes. Let me know how the sear works out.... I was looking at those. |
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At times, Midway and brownells have carried factory sears.
often, they are out of stock for long periods of time. Good News, aftermarket sears have arrived.... http://www.speedshooterspecialties.com/catalog/search.php?submit=submit&categories=Smith+%26+Wesson+M%26P+9%2F40%2F357&subcategories=Performance+Accessories |
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I just shot my M&P45 today for the first time. I was contemplating returning it or trading it in for something else. The break on the trigger is just terrible. It was so stiff, that I felt like I was jerking every shot. Yuck! I think that I will spend the $65 to have the Burwell's trigger job done. I don't have the skills, tools, or inclination to try it myself. Mike F |
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I just shot my M&P45 today for the first time. I was contemplating returning it or trading it in for something else. The break on the trigger is just terrible. It was so stiff, that I felt like I was jerking every shot. Yuck! I think that I will spend the $65 to have the Burwell's trigger job done. I don't have the skills, tools, or inclination to try it myself. Mike F SAME HERE, Brother!!! I like the gun, but my trigger is horrendous. It's getting better as I've fired 170 rounds through it. But it takes every ounce of effort not to pull the pistol off of a 4" square at 15 yards. I'm talkin' SLOW fire... with extreme concentration. The UPSIDE is that when I switch back to the glock I feel like I can out shoot anyone! |
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I had mine done by Dan Burwell and it's much, much better than before. That being said, I could have bought quite a bit of ammo and put it through there for the same price. If I had to do it all over again I would've just shot the hell out of it. Jay That's my strategy. The upside to this horrible trigger is that it's forced me to take my pistol shooting/trigger control back to the basics. And when I jump back onto a glock... I can really make the gun sing. |
| I just got a Apex sear for my M&P today and installed it. I would try one out before you spend the money to ship your handgun off for a trigger job. I had a 45 that had a trigger job done and I've followed the Burwell instructions on my 9mm and 40. I just put the Apex sear in the 9mm and I am very pleased. It is much better than stock. David |
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Quoted: I just shot my M&P45 today for the first time. I was contemplating returning it or trading it in for something else. The break on the trigger is just terrible. It was so stiff, that I felt like I was jerking every shot. Yuck! I think that I will spend the $65 to have the Burwell's trigger job done. I don't have the skills, tools, or inclination to try it myself. Mike F This - but it definitely gets better over time. I dry fired mine 1000 times (yep) and it did help. No kill like an overkill... |
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Quoted: I just got a Apex sear for my M&P today and installed it. I would try one out before you spend the money to ship your handgun off for a trigger job. I had a 45 that had a trigger job done and I've followed the Burwell instructions on my 9mm and 40. I just put the Apex sear in the 9mm and I am very pleased. It is much better than stock. David I just started reading up on the Apex sear around the net, and I think I will give it a shot. You can't beat $30 vs. $65 (+ shipping). If it works, sweet, if not, I can still unload this thing. Mike F |
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I installed my Apex tactical sear about an hour ago on my M&P9. Just received it today.
WOW! I thought the trigger was pretty good before, but now this thing is just GREAT! Light, crisp, and a short reset. The reset is still a touch on the soft side, but I think I'll get used to it rather quickly. I would highly recommend picking up one of these sears ASAP! -Parke1 |
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I installed my Apex tactical sear about an hour ago on my M&P9. Just received it today. WOW! I thought the trigger was pretty good before, but now this thing is just GREAT! Light, crisp, and a short reset. The reset is still a touch on the soft side, but I think I'll get used to it rather quickly. I would highly recommend picking up one of these sears ASAP! -Parke1 How hard is it to install? I've never done any trigger work. What tools are required? |
| I found this link on the Apex website, seems really easy to install, I might order one of these sears for my 9mm. Apex Sear Installation Video |
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How hard is it to install? I've never done any trigger work. What tools are required? I used a small hammer, a 1/8" roll pin punch, and a paper clip (to push out the sear pin). Very easy installation, and took about five minutes total. It's a great product, and it is definitely worth a lot more than the $30 asking price from Apex. -Parke1 |
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This - but it definitely gets better over time. I dry fired mine 1000 times (yep) and it did help. No kill like an overkill... Dry firing is apparently NOT GOOD for the stupid M&P. And apparently.. if you have a gen 1 striker, it will likely damage or break. My pistol happens to have the gen 2 striker, but I was still told to go ahead and use snap caps for dry firing. 
Anyone have a link to where to buy the APEX sear? Google doesn't get me much. |
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Anyone have a link to where to buy the APEX sear? Google doesn't get me much. http://apextactical.com/hp_zencart/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=7&products_id=21 |
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My only concern is with a modified trigger it gives the prosecution something to latch onto if you use the weapon on self defense. If I do anything it will be the Smith & Wesson PC mod. When a jury is asked should a person have a trigger that is stock and could be uncontrollable to some people which can cause you to miss your target and possibly hit the wrong person, or should a person have a "safely modified trigger" so they are able to control the trigger and place a round with precision to stop a threat without endangering the public, what do you think a common person would say? |
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Quoted:
This - but it definitely gets better over time. I dry fired mine 1000 times (yep) and it did help. No kill like an overkill... Dry firing is apparently NOT GOOD for the stupid M&P. And apparently.. if you have a gen 1 striker, it will likely damage or break. My pistol happens to have the gen 2 striker, but I was still told to go ahead and use snap caps for dry firing.
Anyone have a link to where to buy the APEX sear? Google doesn't get me much. Long thread on the other forum. Jay |
| I received the Apex sear last week and dropped in my FS .45. A lot of take up (as expected), perfect clean break at 4-4.25 lbs, BUT I lcouldn't hear or feel the reset. I just had to go off length of trigger travel to gauge the reset. I dry fired it for about 10 minutes then threw the original sear back in. |
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I'd like to try the DIY, but a quick search yeilded me about 135 dollars for a set of stones... Where as the cost of the trigger job is less than that. Any suggestions on stones? You could just buy an Apex sear that drops right in. I've got one and so far so good. A truly good trigger job involves more than just the sear, of course, but the sear is the core element of the trigger job. Rounding and polishing the firing pin safety plunger helps smooth out the takeup. I did a review of the Apex sear: http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=5&f=16&t=87495 Apex is also looking at production of rounded firing pin plungers in the near future. |
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Dry firing is apparently NOT GOOD for the stupid M&P. And apparently.. if you have a gen 1 striker, it will likely damage or break. My pistol happens to have the gen 2 striker, but I was still told to go ahead and use snap caps for dry firing.
If you bought the gun recently it's highly unlikely that it has the Gen 1 striker. If your striker is all silver, it's gen 3 and is designed to absorb a lot more dryfire than previous versions. If it is black, it's likely a Gen 2. Gen 2's won't shatter like plat glass when you dryfire, but it's definitely a good idea to use snap caps if you do any serious dryfire training. Personally I use snapcaps when I do dedicated dryfire with any handgun. I've just broken too many by not using snap caps. Anyone have a link to where to buy the APEX sear? Google doesn't get me much. http://apextactical.com/hp_zencart/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=7&products_id=21 It's not strictly necessary, IMO...the trigger smooths out after a few hundred rounds of live fire or a decent amount of dryfire (using snapcaps, of course  ) I can shoot a stock gun every bit as well as my customized guns...sometimes better. Of course, that may just be because I am awesome. 
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A lot of take up (as expected), perfect clean break at 4-4.25 lbs, BUT I lcouldn't hear or feel the reset. Interesting. I put in my Apex sear the other day and can definately fell the reset in my finger now where I didn't before. Can't feel it when shooting with gloves though. David |
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Quoted:
Quoted:
I've done 3 or 4 and they all were easy and turned out great http://www.burwellgunsmithing.com/M&Ptriggerjob1.htm I recently finished doing my M&P40 using these instructions. I used a flat jewels file to "stone", and polishing wheels in a plug in drill for polishing/grinding. Also used vice grip to hold pieces. Trigger was very gritty when I 1st got it and would catch on the trigger pull. Now, there is no grittyness, trigger pull is a little lighter and reset is a little more noticeable. All parts now have a mirror finish and glide together. Rounding/polishing the firing pin plunger was key to getting a smoother pull. I had to buy a S&W M&P sight pusher ($125) to do the firing pin plunger. Also spend about $25 on some polishing wheels and polishing compound. Go slowly on the sear. File/stone and polish a little bit, fit and see how you are doing. I understand it's relatively easy to go too far. Very happy w/ how the trigger evolved over stock. It took about 3 different sessions to get it right. Also just ordered an Apex Tactical Hardened Sear, and see how that goes. Received the Apex Tactical sear last Friday and installed Sat morning. In looking at the Apex and my modified stock sear, there is considerably more material removed / reshaped as compared to what I took off the stock sear. The trigger break weight is considerably lighter than even my trigger job efforts, but the reset is now really nice. Very noticeable w/ an audible click. When the Mass. compliant springs become available, I'm going to try one. I think it will give a pull that is more inline w/a Glock. More spring resistance in the entire sweep of the trigger w/ a powerful reset. All in all, a heartily recommended product!!! |
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Quoted: When the Mass. compliant springs become available, I'm going to try one. I think it will give a pull that is more inline w/a Glock. More spring resistance in the entire sweep of the trigger w/ a powerful reset. All in all, a heartily recommended product!!! Please inform this uneducated person? Which springs and what is the difference. |
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Please inform this uneducated person? Which springs and what is the difference. It's a much heavier trigger return spring that was initially designed to yield an increased trigger pull. Some noticed that it had the added benefit of making the trigger reset quicker and a bit more positive, and when combined with a Performance Center sear the end result was a trigger that had a more Glock-like trigger reset with a smoother trigger pull. |
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Put my apex sear in this weekend. Trigger already feels 100% better with a very light pull and crisp reset that you can feel and hear. Also, the reset point is in the same place...a nice change from the original where the reset point seemed to be inconsistent.
I haven't had a chance to take it shooting yet but am looking forward to it. ETA: If you've never replaced the sear in an M&P its really easy. The one thing to watch for is a tiny little plunger that sits under the sear. Be careful when you take the sear out as the plunger can fall out and get lost. It's small. |
| I received my apex sear today. Went from 6 pounds to 4 pounds and no longer jumps to the right when the striker releases. I get creep in about 1out of every 4 trigger pulls though. Hope this works itself out or I'll have to polish stuff. Reset is a slight audible and feelable click. Would be unnoticeable with gloves and hearing protection. |
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I received my apex sear today. Went from 6 pounds to 4 pounds and no longer jumps to the right when the striker releases. I get creep in about 1out of every 4 trigger pulls though. Hope this works itself out or I'll have to polish stuff. Reset is a slight audible and feelable click. Would be unnoticeable with gloves and hearing protection. apex as well as a couple other other manufacturers have a aftermarket fpb kit that will lighten the trigger pull as well in addition |
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Got my Apex Hard Sear today and it went in with no problems. I too am experiencing the "stealth" trigger. There is no audible or tactile click on mine. I have not been to the range yet, but it seems like the striker is not firing. I dropped a note to Apex to see what they say. I will try to get it out to the range this weekend. Mike F |
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Quoted: Got my Apex Hard Sear today and it went in with no problems. I too am experiencing the "stealth" trigger. There is no audible or tactile click on mine. I have not been to the range yet, but it seems like the striker is not firing. I dropped a note to Apex to see what they say. I will try to get it out to the range this weekend. Mike F UPDATE: Well, I had some goofiness going on. I was not experiencing "stealth trigger", the sear was not engaging the striker. The trigger bar was a little "tweaked". So I tweaked it back the other way, and I could get the pistol to function. But, the release was really far to the rear. After talking to Randy at Apex, he suggested that I open up the loop on the trigger bar a touch. I did that, and polished the surface where it meets the sear. WOW, what a thing of beauty. The support from Apex is top notch!The trigger is firm and smooth, with a nice clean break. Not the creaky, crunchy trigger I had before. I need to get this thing to the range and see what it can do. This was the best $30 I have spent in a long time. Mike F |
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Quoted: What was the reset like? Could you feel the reset? I thinking about converting all my M&Ps and the stock reset is my biggest complaint.Quoted: Got my Apex Hard Sear today and it went in with no problems. I too am experiencing the "stealth" trigger. There is no audible or tactile click on mine. I have not been to the range yet, but it seems like the striker is not firing. I dropped a note to Apex to see what they say. I will try to get it out to the range this weekend. Mike F UPDATE: Well, I had some goofiness going on. I was not experiencing "stealth trigger", the sear was not engaging the striker. The trigger bar was a little "tweaked". So I tweaked it back the other way, and I could get the pistol to function. But, the release was really far to the rear. After talking to Randy at Apex, he suggested that I open up the loop on the trigger bar a touch. I did that, and polished the surface where it meets the sear. WOW, what a thing of beauty. The support from Apex is top notch!The trigger is firm and smooth, with a nice clean break. Not the creaky, crunchy trigger I had before. I need to get this thing to the range and see what it can do. This was the best $30 I have spent in a long time. Mike F |
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The reset is nice and clean. I increased the size of the loop on the trigger bar, so the trigger breaks sooner, and resets better. I am a happy camper. Mike F Quoted: Quoted: What was the reset like? Could you feel the reset? I thinking about converting all my M&Ps and the stock reset is my biggest complaint.Quoted: Got my Apex Hard Sear today and it went in with no problems. I too am experiencing the "stealth" trigger. There is no audible or tactile click on mine. I have not been to the range yet, but it seems like the striker is not firing. I dropped a note to Apex to see what they say. I will try to get it out to the range this weekend. Mike F UPDATE: Well, I had some goofiness going on. I was not experiencing "stealth trigger", the sear was not engaging the striker. The trigger bar was a little "tweaked". So I tweaked it back the other way, and I could get the pistol to function. But, the release was really far to the rear. After talking to Randy at Apex, he suggested that I open up the loop on the trigger bar a touch. I did that, and polished the surface where it meets the sear. WOW, what a thing of beauty. The support from Apex is top notch!The trigger is firm and smooth, with a nice clean break. Not the creaky, crunchy trigger I had before. I need to get this thing to the range and see what it can do. This was the best $30 I have spent in a long time. Mike F |
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I got my APEX hard sear and installed it. I had a question cause I could not see trigger bar engaging the sear I called Randy and he instantly asked if I had a mag disconnect I said yes he talked the trough it and tested and wow Reset is awesome and trigger pull is 4.1Lbs Thanks Randy for the help.
I also must say this is my 1st mod I ever did to any gun and this was very easy to achieve and Randy has a tutorial on his web-site and will answer any questions. Apex rocks and has awesome A++++++++++++++ service can't wait till the striker block is ready. |
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Put my apex sear in this weekend. Trigger already feels 100% better with a very light pull and crisp reset that you can feel and hear. Also, the reset point is in the same place...a nice change from the original where the reset point seemed to be inconsistent. I haven't had a chance to take it shooting yet but am looking forward to it. ETA: If you've never replaced the sear in an M&P its really easy. The one thing to watch for is a tiny little plunger that sits under the sear. Be careful when you take the sear out as the plunger can fall out and get lost. It's small. Self quotes rule. Have taken the gun with the Apex sear to the range several times now. Reset is much better. Still not loud enough to hear on a gun-range, but you can feel it and it's located consistently. Much better arrangement. Trigger is very light now. I don't have a trigger pull but after firing several hundred rounds out of my stock Glocks, the M&P trigger feels like nothing. In fact I find myself thumping the trigger the weight is so much lighter (at least in perception). Just ordered the striker block yesterday from Apex. A buddy and I are considering the Mass Spring (IIRC) as it's said to add another pound or so to the trigger. Slowly but surely we're making this "trigger" into an honest to goodness trigger system! |