Posted: 12/27/2011 11:32:19 PM EDT
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can any harm come from shooting your m&p without the little frame plug that sits just in front of the rear take down pin? i plan to go to the range tomorrow and i don't see how it could hurt the gun but i wanted to double check.
Mine got pretty chewed up upon the newer (larger ram/spring) sear installation and stopped me from being able to get the sear back down into the frame so i took it out...the sear slid in but still felt really tight. I looked at my old sear housing, and the side part (round in shape) that slides down to sit over the frame plug, didn't have an extra little cap protruding from it like the newer sear does.... this is what is hitting my frame plug and causing the problem. now i ordered a new frame plug as this ones beat up from the lip being caught on the sear housing. but i suspect i'll have the same problem with the new one....i may have to shave a tiny bit off the frame where the plug sits to make enough room for the sear to slide down behind it if the new plug doesn't fit. anyone else every have this problem when putting a newer sear housing in an older gun? or am i doing something wrong here? |
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Both of my M&Ps are newer so I can't comment about new parts in old guns. However, on my guns, I am pretty sure the area around the plug hole is countersunk on the inside so that the plug will fit more closely getting it away from the sear housing.
That said, I wouldn't worry about shooting the gun without the plug. Remember that the guns with the ILS don't have the plug and that is where the key is inserted. However, since yours doesn't have the lock, I would worry about gunk and dirt getting into the hole with direct access to the firing mechanism. I would try to get a plug to fit. I might even consider a small dab of black RTV placed deep into the hole if I couldn't get the plug to work. That would be an absolute last resort, though. |
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Quoted:
can any harm come from shooting your m&p without the little frame plug that sits just in front of the rear take down pin? i plan to go to the range tomorrow and i don't see how it could hurt the gun but i wanted to double check. Mine got pretty chewed up upon the newer (larger ram/spring) sear installation and stopped me from being able to get the sear back down into the frame so i took it out...the sear slid in but still felt really tight. I looked at my old sear housing, and the side part (round in shape) that slides down to sit over the frame plug, didn't have an extra little cap protruding from it like the newer sear does.... this is what is hitting my frame plug and causing the problem. now i ordered a new frame plug as this ones beat up from the lip being caught on the sear housing. but i suspect i'll have the same problem with the new one....i may have to shave a tiny bit off the frame where the plug sits to make enough room for the sear to slide down behind it if the new plug doesn't fit. anyone else every have this problem when putting a newer sear housing in an older gun? or am i doing something wrong here? Can you take a picture of your two sear housings side by side please? (Old and New) |
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Quoted:
Can you take a picture of your two sear housings side by side please? (Old and New) 
old one is on the bottom. you can see it's open and when looking directly at it you can see all the way through it. the new one has a little cover sitting over where that hole is 
here's the width difference between the old (on the left) and new (on the right) the cap adds a tiny bit of width and it's catching the frame plug due to it. sorry for shitty cell phone pics |
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Quoted:
Both of my M&Ps are newer so I can't comment about new parts in old guns. However, on my guns, I am pretty sure the area around the plug hole is countersunk on the inside so that the plug will fit more closely getting it away from the sear housing. That said, I wouldn't worry about shooting the gun without the plug. Remember that the guns with the ILS don't have the plug and that is where the key is inserted. However, since yours doesn't have the lock, I would worry about gunk and dirt getting into the hole with direct access to the firing mechanism. I would try to get a plug to fit. I might even consider a small dab of black RTV placed deep into the hole if I couldn't get the plug to work. That would be an absolute last resort, though. i'm not too worried about dirt and gunk getting in there as it's mainly a range toy and doesn't see much abuse. also gets cleaned pretty well after each use. Im just paranoid and wanted to double check 
that being said i went to a few ranges yesterday and they were all full with a line out the door or a wait at the benches. i said screw that and went back home and made myself a drink. bastards ruined my plan for my only day off!! edit: just reread your post and somehow skipped the part about the lock before.....so maybe it's the one with the lock? but i didn't get a key with it. nor did my old sear have it if that is a lock.... this is the one i bought here |
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damn.
well i'm waiting till they have the sears with no mag or key safety to get back in stock, this one was just a quick fix so i could go play with it on the range. if that is a lock then the other one im waiting on should be free of that and will work with a frame plug again. 
M&p noob over here 
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Curiosity got the better of me. Go here:
Smith and Wesson Pistol Parts List Search for the part number shown on Midway's site. and you'll see two other sear blocks right below it, one no IL (lock)/no mag safety, and one no IL. Looks like the p/n you want is 390900000 for no mag safety/no IL |
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Dude, go shoot the damn thing.
This was without that silly plug and I think it ran alright. 
Don't sweat the small stuff. It's run for 6 months like this |