Posted: 10/16/2009 7:42:23 AM EDT
| I'm going to get some roll pin punches, since I've never been able to successfully remove them without destroying them. That being said, what is the correct proceedure for replacing the breach block pins? Do I put the larger one in first and then the smaller one, or do I try to get them both in simultaneously? I'm guessing the former, but it never hurts to ask in case there are some special tips I'll need to know. |
| I did mine a week ago, its pretty easy. Tap them out and in from left to right. Put the larger one in about half way (pin should at the 12 o'clock position), then start the smaller pin (at the 6 o'clock). You will have to push the firing pin in while you're tapping them in as it sits in the way. You'll see what I mean if you look in the hole before starting the pins. Just take your time and use the punches. If you get stuck wander over to Sigforum and they'll be able to post pics to walk you through it. |
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Ho-ly shit!
I'm glad that only needs to be done every 10,000 rounds! What a pain in the ass! While the roll pin punches help keep the punch from slipping off, the tips are flat and not cupped to accomodate the taped end of the pins. I put oil on the pins in the slide on friday when I ordered the punches. I oiled them again on Saturday. I still had to pound the hell out of them to get them out. Getting the new one in was no picnic eithre. Before you have to worry about pushing the firing pin in, you have make sure the firing pin block is pushed into place and stays in place, as it likes to move when you're pounding in the larger pin. Long story short, I'll have to use a Sharpie in the end of the slightly deformed pins. |
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Sounds like a pain in the ass. I've got to admit, this has been a consideration of mine in the past when I considered (and dismissed) using older SIGs as high round count guns. I love 'em, but what a pain. Its not soooooo bad, took me about 15 minutes to knock out the old pins, clean everything and replace pins. Just takes proper tools, patience and balls. I'll do mine again after 10k rounds. Don't let a few roll pins keep you from a nice Sig  Besides, if DIY isn't for you a smith wouldn't charge too much $$ to do it for you.
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That's why I use a heavy vice!!!!!!  As a matter of fact, I used vice grips to install the roll pins on my ARs, but due to the girth of the slide, I couldn't do that. I'd put it in the vice, but with my luck, I'd not have it perpendicular and end up bending the pin. My buddy said his new 229 uses a regular pin. Bummer for me. I just don't understand why the hell Sig didn't make the slide a one-piece deal. I've never liked roll pins and I never will. Still love my Sig, though. |
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That's why I use a heavy vice!!!!!! As a matter of fact, I used vice grips to install the roll pins on my ARs, but due to the girth of the slide, I couldn't do that. I'd put it in the vice, but with my luck, I'd not have it perpendicular and end up bending the pin. My buddy said his new 229 uses a regular pin. Bummer for me. I just don't understand why the hell Sig didn't make the slide a one-piece deal. I've never liked roll pins and I never will. Still love my Sig, though. Yeah, I'm not a big fan either...especially when one partially works it's way out and you don't find out until you conduct an immediate action drill (*^&&^%$^––Someone get me a bandaid from the tower!!!) Always fun 
The new 229's do have a solid pin, and I think they work better. My vice is a large heavy vice, permanently mounted––and it's got some padding to prevent marring the slide. I get the pins started, holding the firing pin, then use the vice to crank it down. Sometimes I have to finish it off with a punch, other times I get lucky
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