Posted: 2/1/2009 12:40:07 PM EDT
| First I own several glocks and have all 11 of them set up the same way. Meening a glock 3.5 lb connector polished and added a reduced power firing pin spring to bring them to a very smooth 3 lb pull. Now number 12, the 17L came with a factory 3.5 lb connector from the factory just like my 34 & 35 did but just like the box lable say's it has a 4.5 lb trigger pull. The question is HITF did they acheive that? I can't seem to figure out what else has been changed to acheive this. Like I said it obviously has a 3.5 lb connector and is clearly marked as such. Does anyone know definitively what else they changed to do this ? I love the pistol, but I would like to give it the same pull as the rest of my glocks. Please no guess work, I can do that on my own. I don't want to keep changing parts til I hopefully figure it out. Help with this would be greatly appreciated.......Thanks in advance for any help........Jeff |
| A 3.5# trigger on a Glock never really measured 3.5#. They are simply labeling the boxes as to what the triggers really measured all along. The standard 5# trigger has always actually measured about 5# to 6.5#, the 3.5# has always measured about 4.5#. The intial mislabeling, yes the 20 plus year old mislabeling was a result of a poor conversion from metric to english. Nobody really felt the need to change it until recently. Probably for liability reasons. |
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Quoted:
A 3.5# trigger on a Glock never really measured 3.5#. They are simply labeling the boxes as to what the triggers really measured all along. The standard 5# trigger has always actually measured about 5# to 6.5#, the 3.5# has always measured about 4.5#. The intial mislabeling, yes the 20 plus year old mislabeling was a result of a poor conversion from metric to english. Nobody really felt the need to change it until recently. Probably for liability reasons. This. It's well known that the 3.5 connector actually yields around a 4.5 lb on most guns. Relax OP, it's no different than any of your other guns with a 3.5 in 'em. |
| Well see, here is the problem. I am fully aware of the issue you speak of and the representation of the weight of pull on the different triggers. I have been shooting glock pistols for many years and this is the first one I have not been able to acheive the same pull as the rest I own wheather or not they came with 3.5's 0r 5.5's. That's the reason I posted this question. I hoped someone out there new of something I wasn't aware of that could explain what is making my new 17L not conform to the rest of my collection. I have been over it several times and just can't bring it in the same ball park as the others. I have a 34-35-31-22-23-32-19-17-30-26 & I know this is cheating but with my Barsto .357 sig barrel in the 35 I refer to it as a 35 and 1/2. Now after all this, I buy a new 17L and it has to be different even after the same mod I have performed on each of the others. May just have to live with it.......Thanks for the support & comments gentleman........ |
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First off, your new 17L hasn't been broken in like all your other Glocks so the trigger feels different. Second, your reduced power firing pin spring reduces the force the pin strikes the primer with resulting in a lower reliability pistol. Rather than a reduced power firing pin spring, consider a Lone Wolf Connector and a Competition Trigger Spring for a lighter and crisper trigger. Much of the 'slack' (pre-travel and over travel) will be eliminated and you'll love your new trigger. 3.5# Connector: I've tried Glock, Scherer, and Lone Wolf 3.5# connectors in my Glocks and Lone Wolf's is the best hands down because it gives you the best 'break' with less takeup and over travel. You can get it from Glockparts.com for $13 HERE. Comp
Trigger Spring: The Comp Trigger Spring is a higher weight spring (6lbs vs 5lbs) and because the spring works with you pulling the trigger, not against you, the higher spring weight gives you a lighter and crisper pull. Glockparts.com has them for $5 LINK. |
| I have never experienced a break in period with a glock pistol. All my other glocks were installed the same way. When the pistol was new and had completely different results. Never experienced a reliability problem with a glock either, but I use nothing but factory ammo wheather I'm shooting competition or at the range. Have nothing against reloades when done correctly, just not for me. Now as for your obvious experience with the other trigger parts, I have been down that road in the past and always went back to glock 3.5 connectors with reduced power firing pin spring and found it to be the best combination for me with (0) adverse affects in safety, reliability, accuracy or anything else. My reason for treating the 17L the same way is because when I pick it up, I don't want to have to adjust to a different feeling trigger. I want it the same as all the others. I havn't been able to acheive that so far and just thought there was a change in the gen-3 line recently that I wasn't aware of that might be causing this issue. I (think) I may have just figured it out because I just pulled my 23 apart and removed the firing pin assembly from it and dropped it in the 17L and there it was. What I was looking for. Meening I (think) it has something to do with the assembly it's self or part of it like maybe the retainer cups or other part that came in the 17L. I'll have to put the 17L parts in the 23 now to see if it validates what I'm (thinking). I should know more here soon.........Thanks again |