Posted: 1/11/2009 9:16:02 AM EDT
| I perfer Wilson Comabt on all of my Glocks and Breakfree on AR's. I feel oil runs into firing pin holes and dried out to fast for a carry weapon. Plus oil gets into primers. What do you think? |
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Pretty hard to deactivate primers, even spraying WD40 directly into the cup. Ask any reloader how to deactivate a primer, and they will tell you that it borders alchemy.
I personally use anti-seize compound and oil on all of my guns. Parts that reciprocate in a fast manner get the grease, parts that do not, get the oil. |
| I don't over think it for my glock. I just spray it down with CLP and make careful not to get any in striker hole. You may want to overthink the way you lube an clean a masterpiece 1911, but your glock will most likely fire just fine no matter what you clean and lube it with. |
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Never had a problem with it.
I've been using Mobil 1 20w50 synthetic for close to thirteen years to lubricate my all of my Glock 17s, 17Ls and 19s. I apply a very thin film of it with a cotton swab to all the lubrication points. It has performed, in a word, "flawlessly". TK |
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I use Slip 2000 on my AR's because it will take alot of heat and it's high lubricity means more shooting and less cleaning. It also does not dry out like Break Free. Since Slip 2000 is a water based lubricant it cleans up EASILY with Slip 725 degreaser and a Rag. Price wise it's $8 for Four Ounces of Oil.
For Glocks I like Glockmeister's G-lube with or without TW25B light grease. G Lube's extreme lubricity allows you to clean the slide and magwell area with a dry rag and merely run the bore with solvent and relube. The more you use this lube the less time it takes to clean. Use gun scrubber or powder blast and the Glock's clean in five minutes. If you store your AR Muzzle Up in a gun cabinet you won't have to worry about oil in the firing pin area because it will leak into the lower reciever or buffer tube. 
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