Posted: 11/13/2008 6:00:53 PM EDT
I have had my G23 for quite some time and of all the handguns I have fired (between mine and my fathers...nearly 15) it is by far my favorite. I should also add that I am the most accurate with the Glock (although recently I have been plagued by the "low and lefts"). Anyways, the 23 is going to be my primary carry weapon and I would like to add a few modifications. With Xmas around the corner, and a loving fiancee , Im looking at improving performance. I definitely want the 3.5 lb connector to reduce trigger pull as well as a set of truglo front and rears. Here is my dilemma...I am playing with the Lasermax idea, but im not sure how practical this will be at nearly $300 (she loves me, but I dont think that much!). I am also looking at the tungsten guide rod to reduce muzzle flip. Of course this wont be an option with the lasermax considering I would be replacing the guide rod with the laser so I guess Im looking for some direction. Does anyone know the weight of the lasermax system? I know the guide rod is 1.6 oz so if the lasermax is close I could kill two birds with one stone. Any input?
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I had a Lasermax in my Sig 229 two tone, a bitch to zero if you can (but lasers don't need to be completely zeroed as it is a LUXURY and a tool for fast target acquisition). It also didn't last long battery wise and service life with the .40 / .357 Sig. was horrible. It broke all too soon. The powder blast would dirty the lens darkening the beam or after heavy use over 250rds. the beam would go then you have to wipe the lens. Regretted that purchase but YMMV. Also This was a few years back (about 9) so their products could be made better now-a-days... but it is still recommended to replace the recoil spring every 5000 rounds. Glock factory springs? Ha...
Ended up with the CT grips then sold the Sig and never went back to a laser. Don't plan on going back either. I forget the actual weight but it was lighter than the factory Sig guide rod which I believe was alloy. As for the cool factor and show and tell it's neat but thats it. Go for the Night sights. The 3.5# connector seems good and I might toy with it on my 17 and I like that the factory uses it... if you have a rail the the GTL has a laser option if you are into that luxury. Other than that leave it stock then save the $ for Ammo or something like Mags. My o2 so take it FWIW. |
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my advice, if this is a defensive gun:
-add a good set of night sights (XS BIG DOTS are my suggestion) -get training/practice other things that will help (gear wise): good, quality holster, factory mags, ammo, a good light as to the lasers, i would opt for the Crimson Trace grips––unlike the Lasermax, if it breaks, your gun will still work; now, if a lasermax breaks, and they do, your firearm will more than likely NOT function as to the tungsten rods, etc...keep that stuff for competition/race/range guns––imo, they dont belong in a defensive gun; defensive guns are to be kept RELIABLE and working...most aftermarket "upgrades", from rods to springs, tend to decrease that FWIW: from my expirences with those weighted rods, they do a little to help (very little imo) and is not worth the $$$s i do not know the weight of the rods to compare good luck |
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Thanks for the input! Im definitely an advocate for range time and proper training over relying on luxury items such as lasers. I imagined the lasermax would be a PIA to zero and given its postion/function, I questioned whether it would hold true for very long. I wasnt completely sold on the idea and was planning on the night sights regardless. At this point I am going to just forget about the laser. Ill let the AR collect all the cool points ;)
The info on the guide rod is good to know as well. I would have thought the added weight up front would really make a difference. I mean it sounds belieavable in theory. Ill have look into that one a little more. Either way, at least its still a Glock! |
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I actualy built myself a guidrod for my glock. If you guys have any telescopic antenna from radios, RC equiptment ect, and (if) you have the right diameter you can make a SS guidrod in minutes. Mines oversized and flush with the spring, has almost 0 flex, its a very smooth action. Only downside is that you will have to cut your original guiderod so you can insert its original shaft into the antenna and use its nail head that sits the setup on the barrel. Or I did it this way anyhow. Kind of a bitch to install aswell since its an open spring setup. I have a tool for it right now but im trying to refine past the need of one. My whole idea though was to not buy a lasermax. To broke. Just hope I can work it out. lol. PITA but looking promising. Basicly built.
Some might think its dumb, but its just a thought for you guys. Works nice just not break down freindly. Sure you could capture that spring though. |
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Somebody PLEASE show me one instance where a Lasermax caused a Glock to malfunction. Anybody????
It's a steel guide rod, which right away is a modification that a lot of people make. But secondly, anyone who's seen the 1000-round G19 torture test saw the OEM plastic guide rod melt and fall out of the gun, yet the gun continued to function perfectly. I'm not affiliated with them, but I'm not a Kool Aid drinker either. I just think it's a good product and don't see much of a downside to having one on my gun. I have over 2000 rounds of hot DT and BB ammo through my G20 and the Lasermax has held up flawlessly. Oh, and big plus over CT laser grips - Lasermax has a switch. When I am gripping my G20 with my trigger finger on the frame, I can activate the laser with either my left thumb OR right index finger. Another plus - it still looks totally stock and is invisible to the untrained eye. ETA: My Lasermax and recoil spring weighs 0.6 oz, according to my postal scale. Not in the mood to wrestle with popping the spring off the guide rod. |
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Quoted:
Thanks for the input! Im definitely an advocate for range time and proper training over relying on luxury items such as lasers. I imagined the lasermax would be a PIA to zero and given its postion/function, I questioned whether it would hold true for very long. I wasnt completely sold on the idea and was planning on the night sights regardless. At this point I am going to just forget about the laser. Ill let the AR collect all the cool points ;) The info on the guide rod is good to know as well. I would have thought the added weight up front would really make a difference. I mean it sounds belieavable in theory. Ill have look into that one a little more. Either way, at least its still a Glock! 
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| The CT grips on my Sig had a more natural feel to it and was easier to use in a momentary on/off rather than always on always fumbling. Not trying to rag anyone's opinion, just showing both sides of the coin. A buddy of mine had a pressure switch on a trigger guard mounted laser, (I forget the brand) the pressure switch was held on the grip with a rubber grip pad on a G17 first gen. That was kind of an interesting set up. When I used it I placed the pressure pad on the back of the grip, all I had to do to activate the laser was tighten my fist. This was actually a cheap way to get a laser and effective. Might look into one of these even though you mentioned that you had given up on the laser idea... |
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Quoted:
Somebody PLEASE show me one instance where a Lasermax caused a Glock to malfunction. Anybody???? . there are numerous reports of lasermax rods failing (and i dont mean the batteries)––either parts falling aprart, breakage, etc either way you cut it, pieces of your guide rod breaking off and having a chance of interfearing INSIDE the frame is not a risk anyone should take on a defensive gun b/c it will mroe than likely screw with the cycling the 1000rnd glock test where the OEM rod melted off and fell OUT of the gun was ok...the plastic rod fell on the outside and the spring inside kept doing its job; if that piece had remained inside the slide assembly, there would have been a good chance that the gun would not have cycled properly i'll look around for some instances of such lasremax failures |