Posted: 1/19/2008 10:26:23 AM EDT
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I bought a 17C a while back that has a THE stainless guide rod with a 17lb. recoil spring. It came to me that way. My question is "why?". Has anyone on this forum actually broken a factory one by proper installation and just shooting their gun? Is their any advantage here or is this a sales gimmick? What do you competition shooters use? Thanks. |
| I'm not competition shooter but strictly recreational...I have a regular 17...you said it came to you that way...did you buy this gun brand new? or was it used or what? I put a stainless in my gun myself and a lighter recoil spring. I never had any probs with the stock plastic one and I keep it for spare, I have heard some of the plastic guide rods will break but never a prob with mine. |
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There was a plethora of reports of G26's guide rods breaking a few years ago, but that was a defect and was fixed by recall. I've had the guide rod on my G30 break. More-than-likely, whoever owned the 17C used the steel guide rod for ease of changing spring weights. You might need a lighter-than-stock spring for reliable function with mild loads with the 9mm "c" models. |
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JHud716, I bought it used with $100 rds through it and it came with the new guide rod. It was a pretty good deal. For $450 it got the gun and the two 17rd mags plus four 33 rd. mags, and the gun literally looked like it was brand new. Does anyone have any bad experience with the stainles guide rods? |
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when i had my 19 i had the factory but i would have replaced it with a ss one if i had it long enough. plastic versus ss. strenght is one reason why secondly, when you do need to change the recoil spring every 5k rds or so as i do, then you just replace the spring. also captive recoil springs and guide rods are harder to get clean to teh level that i like. in a glock it is really no big deal as the factory guide rod and springs are $5 a pop. but it is a big priority on my xd service model, as i have not been ablt to find a factory recoil spring and guide rod which is capive as well. i replaced it at the 2500rd mark, because i wanted a sysetm that i could change springs on at my lessiure, as well as be able to get the gunk and grip out of better. |
I just got back from the range put approx 300+ rds through it, and on top of that i've put close to 1000 give or take and not one prob at all. I love the stainless steel guide rod, I don't think you will have any probs at all. |
 Nothing wrong with a SS, its better then the plastic rod. It adds some more weight up front and helps with muzzle flip, also allows you to change out springs. Im not sure what the stock weight is in a 17, but I run a 13# in mine, but you also need to change out your striker spring if you go to a very low weight recoil spring. |
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Well, it started out life as a 35......then came LWD 40 to 9 conversion LWD 3.5 connector Mepro adj rear sights Dawson fiber fronts Dawson ICE magwell Grip tape SS guide rod 13#, 11# recoil springs Reduced striker spring heavier trigger spring Custom trigger work (no pretravel no overtravel) Custom mag release LWD trigger stop 9mm ejector I think thats it |
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most replacement guide rods (the SS ones at least) work well enough--some require a little fitting and break in personally, the stock ones are cheap, they work fine for me, and i've never had any issues; i have heard of the plastic ones breaking every so often, mostly due to improper installation, etc there are some heavier/weighted guide rods which are suppose to help w/ recovery, but i hardly think its worth the sometimes $75+ price tag 
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the plastic one will melt if you fire over 530rnds in a row..........seriously
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All my Glocks have the same 3 upgrades: Extended slide stop SS guide rod Night sights That's about all you need to do, though I am thinking about a Vickers extended mag release. I use captured SS guide rods since there's no way they will ever break or melt. I haven't had any problems with reliability and I have 3 brands in 3 guns: Glockmeister, HotRod9mm, and ISMI. |
