Posted: 12/28/2007 1:01:06 PM EDT
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I've heard that your not supposed to shoot lead down the polygon rifling in a stock barrel, don't know why people say this but I've never heard why. I've shot a hand full down mine once. I started casting bullets and got a great load on a 175gr TL-SWC. I bought an aftermarket ported barrel and I can not get it to feed anything other than jacketed factory ammo, its definately accurate and a lot of fun to shoot. Every round seems to jam before going into battery the slide doesn't fully close and I cannot fire off the round to eject it, usually end up cussing a lot and finally get it unstuck. I mostly shoot copper plated Rainier bullets. But since I can cast my own for about .014 cents each I don't plan to buy bullets anytime soon. I'd like to have a few different views on aftermarket lead barrels, makers/brand etc. I Dont care about price, so long as its not custom work. I believe the barrel I have is a Shrere *sp made for the G23 in 40cal, its Stainless with 2 oval ports on an extended barrel. |
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The factory Tennifor treated/coated barrel will lead up faster than a slick polish conventional rifled barrel, hence higher working pressures as it does lead up. Regarding the aftermarket barrel and the lead bullets, check the chamber cross wall dimensions and the throat. Granted that a casted bullet will be sized only .001 larger than a jacket bullet it may be that the chamber sidewalls are a bit on the tight side to begin with (you are sizing your bullets after casting right)? Also, with the TL design bullet, you have to load a little shorter OAL or the bullet will embed into the rifling on a tight-throated barrel, or catch up on a sharp stepped end of cut chamber (sounds like the problems you now having with the slide not wanting to lock up all the way). |
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Can't size the Tumble lube bullets or I'll lose the lube grooves. No problem with the glock barrel...I thought these aftermarket barrels are supposed to be exactly the same as stock barrels...what gives? Guess I could get a reamer or find a smith that has a reamer and have the inside loosened a bit to make it work. I still want to shorten the OAL its too close in the mag, and it could very well be leading to the no lock up. |
If your using lee molds with alox lube , yes you can sized them without losing the grooves. Just alox the bullets, and while they are still wet, size them. once sized, relube and then allow the wax to air dry. Simply, the bullets are not true round when casted (are up to the point that you kick the mold open), and even more so if you are dropping them in a bucket of cold water to harden the lead more. |
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Crap! Just posted a similar question. http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=5&f=13&t=51985 Thats what I get for not looking. Anyone try moly coating? I'll do anything to avoid using plated bullets, jacketed bullets or buying an after market barrel. Lead is cheap. |
There is the option of casting, sizing, then copper plating the bullets yourself if your looking to save some money. Hell, if your going to chance getting a little lead into your body casting, then fluroborate based acid and cyanide copper shouldn't worry a bit to plate them as well. As stated, the Glock barrels lead up fast (due to the coatings) and if you are going to shoot lead through the pistols, the just spend the money for a replacement barrel for such. 
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The "coatings" have nothing to do with the leading characteristics of Glock barrels. Hint: Tenifer isn't a "coating". |
There's something on the inside of my Glock barrel. It's black. And it looks like it has an extremely smooth polish. So why do they take on lead? |
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