Posted: 6/11/2006 7:30:01 PM EDT
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Is the case support in a 20 safe for reloading and reloading the same case multiple times. Ive got an itch for a 10mm, but I know my 23 has poor case support. Reloading would be the only option for this caliber for obvious reasons, so g20 owners, enlighten me please. I know about after market barrels having more chamber support, but Im curious about the stock barrel. Specifically, when reloading fired cases, is it a safety issue to reload full power loads. And, again, how many times do you reload 10mm cases fired out of your glock. Thanks for any info. |
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I havent examined a great number of G20 barrels specifically, but my expierience with 20's, 29's, and various 40 cal glocks leads me to the conclusion that stock barrel case support varies from "not horrible" to "horrible". You might get lucky and aquire a specimin with a ramp/chamber on the tight end, tight enough not to over work your brass, but I wouldent count on it. If you want to get a fair number of reloads out of your brass and have reliable reloads, you'll probably have to take some sort of special care to maintain your brass. The obvious solution that most people take, is an aftermarket barrel with a tighter chamber/ramp. Alternately, you could get a case pro or some other means of straightening the brass beyond what a normal sizing die does. However, the case pro will only put the brass back into shape, it wont fix the thining and work hardenenin that occurs in the ramp area of the brass. Repeated stretching on the same spot in a loose ramp will eventually cause a failure. Bottom line, you want your chamber tight enough that your brass will fail first at the neck from the wear from belling and crimping, not in the web from firing over the ramp. I'm not sure you'll see that prefered failure with repeated firings in a glock chamber; more likely you'll see the potentially disasterous failure mode that blows the frame apart and singes you hand with hot gas. I put a KKM barrel in my 29 after I had produced about 500 rounds of empty brass. That brass stock was unreliable in the kkm becuase of the stretching that occurred (when the side of the brass with the buldge was coincident with the ramp area it would chamber, when it was out of phase it would sometimes hang). I fixed the brass by pushing it backwards through a Lee FCD with the cripming collet removed, and its been fine ever since and I havent had any problems with the brass. However, I dont load my 10mm particularly hot and I tend to loose about 25% at the range so who know's how many time a given piece has been loaded. What I'm finding as my supply ages is that the rims are getting buggared up and the headstamps are getting indistinct before the necks split so I've been just tossing the stuff with the faded head stamps. |
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