Posted: 8/13/2017 10:45:53 PM EDT
| Now I know a glock trigger will never be a 1911 trigger, but I want to know if there is a trigger out there that can take out some of the take up. I want this for my glock 34 that I run in 3gun. I run the taran tactical spring and connector kit which I like in my other glocks I have ghost stuff. My buddy has an apex in his M&P and it's really nice, is the glock apex the same short take up? I have some friends that have the zev fulcrum triggers and I'm not impressed at all by the zev stuff, other than the trigger shoe I don't feel any difference. So does anyone have any recommendations? |
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Vanek Custom Trigger Housing with Pre-Travel and Over-Travel Stops....$35.95
Gen4 Trigger Housings Available! This part does not have pre-travel removed when shipped. It comes with a furnished hex wrench for the setscrew's installed in the trigger housing that allows you to adjust the pre-travel distance. The adjustable over-travel stop is preset when shipped and loc-tited even though the setscrew has been installed in a way that it will not move under recoil, but can be fine tuned to your preference with the furnished hex wrench. The setscrew has been milled and polished on the end where the trigger bar hits for a smoother action...Disclaimer: When removing pre-travel the person installing this part must be knowledgeable how the safeties function and it is their responsibility to keep the safeties working. 
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not sure if this answers your question, but on all my Glocks I do this:
1. replace connector with lighter one, usually a Ghost Inc. 3.5lbs one. 2. replace firing pin safety plunger spring with lighter one from Ghost Inc. 3. use Flitz metal polish (on a Qtip in a drill) to smooth all the metal-to-metal contact surfaces between striker, trigger bar, and firing pin safety plunger. 4. do NOT replace the trigger spring with a stronger one. While a stronger trigger spring reduces the pull, it also slows down trigger reset. This results in a trigger with a light long first stage, a crisp and short second stage, and crisp, strong, and very short reset. |
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Quoted:
not sure if this answers your question, but on all my Glocks I do this: 1. replace connector with lighter one, usually a Ghost Inc. 3.5lbs one. 2. replace firing pin safety plunger spring with lighter one from Ghost Inc. 3. use Flitz metal polish (on a Qtip in a drill) to smooth all the metal-to-metal contact surfaces between striker, trigger bar, and firing pin safety plunger. 4. do NOT replace the trigger spring with a stronger one. While a stronger trigger spring reduces the pull, it also slows down trigger reset. This results in a trigger with a light long first stage, a crisp and short second stage, and crisp, strong, and very short reset. |
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Quoted:
Number 4 I think you have that backwards the heavier trigger return spring increases reset tension forward thus increasing the speed at which you can reset. Quoted:
Number 4 I think you have that backwards the heavier trigger return spring increases reset tension forward thus increasing the speed at which you can reset. Plus changing connector to lower trigger pull without it make for a mushy trigger. It exacerbates the mushy clunk feel as the striker is broken. |
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Quoted:
perhaps Not on my pistols. YMMV. |
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I found that if you take the corners off the safety plunger, it helps smooth up the pre-travel, and makes it FEEL like its much shorter.
Check out this guy. Combine with a zev lower power plunger spring. I run those in all my Glocks and the pre-travel really smooths out, and it sure feels shorter as it removes nearly all of the notch/grit feeling. |
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Quoted: I does not have a profound difference on reducing pull weight (.25-.5# drop) but it does make for a more positive forward reset pressure and takes the mushy clunk feel out of the last bit of the striker being pulled back and released by the trigger bar. |
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Quoted:
This is true^^^. I put one (Wolff 6#) in my 17.4 this AM and the difference (along with a thorough polish job) was unreal. Best trigger I've done yet on a Glock. Dot connector. |
| I would not recommend reducing pre-travel without also using a trigger bar specifically designed for this. With an OEM trigger bar you can't remove much pre-travel before you defeat the firing pin safety and possibly the drop safety. The Zev trigger bar is modified for this; however, I'm also not impressed by the Zev triggers. |