Posted: 3/19/2016 12:03:06 PM EDT
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There is definitely an art to stippling, and I'm now a firm believer that the prices being charged for the service are cheap considering the time involved. I learned a lot during the process, and am confident that if I ever do another one it'll turn out better.
All in all I'll say that while I'm "fairly" happy with the way it looks, I'm extremely pleased with how it feels. I still want to do the secondary undercut for the support hand/finger under the trigger guard, but for now that's a piece of Talon rubber on it. -Paul 
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Thanks...I freely admit to cherry-picking the pictures to hide the flaws.
I ground a 3-sided pointed tip (similar to the tip on a Muzzy broadhead) from a bronze soldering tip and then bent it almost 90 degrees. It worked pretty well. Here are the most important lessons I learned about stipplings: 1. if possible, do the job from start to finish in one sitting. I did not, and I can see each section where I began again. 2. keep the frame in the same orientation for the entire side. I began by flipping the frame around to make it easier on me, and I can see the difference between sections where the frame was butt down, butt up, etcetera. 3. be prepared for a 4-6 hour duration. It is not a quick project. |
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(disclaimer) I'm certainly not an expert, so take my advice with a grain of salt.
If you've got a Dremel, the undercut is pretty easy. Use the sanding drum until it's wide enough for your finger, then use the (not sure what you call them) tan, charcoal, and maroon synthetic wool wheels to blend the lines. I clamped the stripped frame (gently) in a soft-jawed vice to do the undercut. |