Posted: 2/24/2016 2:03:28 PM EDT
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Okay, after learning from a different thread I made about upgrades and doing a lot of reading online, I've made a final decision.
This gun is my CCW gun and also the one I use for an occasional competition. I put the gen3 trigger/trigger bar from my Gen3 G22 in the G19. I am also going put a Zev 2lb race connector in and a Zev rounded, stainless steel safety plunger and reduced weight plunger spring in. About $48 total from Amazon. If I can shave 0.5lb to 1lb of weight off the original trigger pull, without sacrificing reliability, I'll be happy. |
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This. If somethings broke, fix it. If it ain't, don't. Quoted:
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I'd call all that junk a downgrade for a carry gun, but it's your toy.... This. If somethings broke, fix it. If it ain't, don't. I would think the smooth face trigger on the swap would be the only thing I see being beneficial. I hate the ridges on the trigger face. |
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Eh... that's on the extreme end for something that is carried. I probably went overboard with mine, but it's been 100% reliable and it's done well in the competitions I shoot until the distance stretches out, mainly due to the sights and my need for more practice.
Gen 4 g19 -ghost evo elite 3.5 connector -6 lb trigger spring -6lb firing pin spring -reduced power plunger spring -g34 slide release -zev pro magwell -finger groove removal -stippling It has served me well and has been 100% reliable except for a couple light primer strikes due to some bad ammo (ammo was bad in other guns as well), a couple FTEs due to underpower ammo (once again, reproduced in another gun, bad lot), and a couple light strikes that I later discovered was due to a ton of gunk in the striker channel after a match that involved rolling around in what could only be described as moon dust... so nothing due to the components. If it were me I'd go with a 3.5 connector, stronger trigger spring, and polished components. I'm not sure of the exact pull weight of my gun, but it is for sure over 3.5lbs as a match I shoot required the weight be over 3.5. I'd put it at about 4 with no over travel and a very crisp reset. A shooting buddy has a similar setup to what you outlined but I didn't care for it, the trigger was definitely lighter but it was a mushier pull and softer reset. Just my two cents. |
| Ok I'm just going to come out and say it, glock triggers really aren't that bad. The more you shoot them the better they get. Are they a 1911 trigger no, if that's what you want get a 1911. Basically the only thing I felt necessary to do to my G19-4 was gen3 17 trigger bar, I hate serrated trigger, Factory -connector, ameriglo cap sights, vickers Gen4 mag release, I undercut rear of trigger guard, and glockmeister grip plug. It shoots completely fine as long as I do my part. I have 2 G19-4 set up exactly the same grey for carry and black for competition . |
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Okay, after learning from a different thread I made about upgrades and doing a lot of reading online, I've made a final decision. This gun is my CCW gun and also the one I use for an occasional competition. I put the gen3 trigger/trigger bar from my Gen3 G22 in the G19. I am also going put a Zev 2lb race connector in and a Zev rounded, stainless steel safety plunger and reduced weight plunger spring in. About $48 total from Amazon. If I can shave 0.5lb to 1lb of weight off the original trigger pull, without sacrificing reliability, I'll be happy. You are going way over board ....... "-" connector, heavy trigger reset spring, and lighter safety plunger spring gave me 3.96# trigger (on a gauge) in my G19.4 I also put a smooth face 17 trigger in mine. |
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You are going way over board ....... "-" connector, heavy trigger reset spring, and lighter safety plunger spring gave me 3.96# trigger (on a gauge) in my G19.4 I also put a smooth face 17 trigger in mine. Quoted:
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Okay, after learning from a different thread I made about upgrades and doing a lot of reading online, I've made a final decision. This gun is my CCW gun and also the one I use for an occasional competition. I put the gen3 trigger/trigger bar from my Gen3 G22 in the G19. I am also going put a Zev 2lb race connector in and a Zev rounded, stainless steel safety plunger and reduced weight plunger spring in. About $48 total from Amazon. If I can shave 0.5lb to 1lb of weight off the original trigger pull, without sacrificing reliability, I'll be happy. You are going way over board ....... "-" connector, heavy trigger reset spring, and lighter safety plunger spring gave me 3.96# trigger (on a gauge) in my G19.4 I also put a smooth face 17 trigger in mine. I'm a bit perplexed by your statement. I swapped a the trigger bar for a gen3 I already had and plan on putting a lighter connector (same as you) and a smoother plunger and lighter plunger spring in. I will be swapping out the same number of parts as you, only different ones. When you mess with the trigger reset spring, you run the risk of reliability problems. |
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I'm a bit perplexed by your statement. I swapped a the trigger bar for a gen3 I already had and plan on putting a lighter connector (same as you) and a smoother plunger and lighter plunger spring in. I will be swapping out the same number of parts as you, only different ones. When you mess with the trigger reset spring, you run the risk of reliability problems. Quoted:
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Okay, after learning from a different thread I made about upgrades and doing a lot of reading online, I've made a final decision. This gun is my CCW gun and also the one I use for an occasional competition. I put the gen3 trigger/trigger bar from my Gen3 G22 in the G19. I am also going put a Zev 2lb race connector in and a Zev rounded, stainless steel safety plunger and reduced weight plunger spring in. About $48 total from Amazon. If I can shave 0.5lb to 1lb of weight off the original trigger pull, without sacrificing reliability, I'll be happy. You are going way over board ....... "-" connector, heavy trigger reset spring, and lighter safety plunger spring gave me 3.96# trigger (on a gauge) in my G19.4 I also put a smooth face 17 trigger in mine. I'm a bit perplexed by your statement. I swapped a the trigger bar for a gen3 I already had and plan on putting a lighter connector (same as you) and a smoother plunger and lighter plunger spring in. I will be swapping out the same number of parts as you, only different ones. When you mess with the trigger reset spring, you run the risk of reliability problems. I have changed it on every Glock I have..... You only run that risk if you do not assemble the spring into the trigger bar correctly. The smoother safety plunger/striker block is a gimmick..... It has very little to no difference over a stock one polished up IMO a waste of money been there done that. |
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All personal preference. What you like may not work for others. My configuration works perfectly for me and the "upgrades" are suited towards what I prefer in a pistol.
My carry gun has the DEM trigger 10-8 sights Zev grip job( removal of finger grooves, double undercut, stipple and backstrap reduction. Also has the xc1 on there. Quoted:
Stock Glock, is best Glock.  |
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Just me, but for a CCW gun, I'd leave it stock for liability purposes and slimey lawyers who would make YOU look like the bad guy with a modified gun who just shot his client.
For a match gun, I like a smoother lighter trigger pull, a slight grip reduction and nice bright fiber optic sights. |
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Just me, but for a CCW gun, I'd leave it stock for liability purposes and slimey lawyers who would make YOU look like the bad guy with a modified gun who just shot his client. For a match gun, I like a smoother lighter trigger pull, a slight grip reduction and nice bright fiber optic sights. I agree to a certain extent, no zombie squad bs or wannabe operator crap, but your lawyer will also explain how whatever upgrades were on your gun are there for enhanced accuracy to limit errant rounds and reduce risk to law abiding public& innocent bystanders . He should also point out why the person who got shot deserved it. A good shoot is a good shoot plain and simple |
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I typically stick with all OEM parts on my carry guns.
Vickers extended mag release- because the OEM extended mag release is WAYY to long for CCW. OEM extended slide release Glock Meister grip plug- bc the beveled plug helps with reloads and plugs up the 8 lane freeway into the FCG OEM Minus connector OEM Gen 3 Trigger bar- I run these on my 19s bc I hate the serrated trigger and on all my gen 4s bc triggers are awful. ISMI 15LB recoil spring with a steel rod- Tracks much better than the awful 17lb spring. I am not shooting +p+ like they do in Europe. +P on a 15lb spring is perfect. |
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I have changed it on every Glock I have..... You only run that risk if you do not assemble the spring into the trigger bar correctly. The smoother safety plunger/striker block is a gimmick..... It has very little to no difference over a stock one polished up IMO a waste of money been there done that. Quoted:
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Okay, after learning from a different thread I made about upgrades and doing a lot of reading online, I've made a final decision. This gun is my CCW gun and also the one I use for an occasional competition. I put the gen3 trigger/trigger bar from my Gen3 G22 in the G19. I am also going put a Zev 2lb race connector in and a Zev rounded, stainless steel safety plunger and reduced weight plunger spring in. About $48 total from Amazon. If I can shave 0.5lb to 1lb of weight off the original trigger pull, without sacrificing reliability, I'll be happy. You are going way over board ....... "-" connector, heavy trigger reset spring, and lighter safety plunger spring gave me 3.96# trigger (on a gauge) in my G19.4 I also put a smooth face 17 trigger in mine. I'm a bit perplexed by your statement. I swapped a the trigger bar for a gen3 I already had and plan on putting a lighter connector (same as you) and a smoother plunger and lighter plunger spring in. I will be swapping out the same number of parts as you, only different ones. When you mess with the trigger reset spring, you run the risk of reliability problems. I have changed it on every Glock I have..... You only run that risk if you do not assemble the spring into the trigger bar correctly. The smoother safety plunger/striker block is a gimmick..... It has very little to no difference over a stock one polished up IMO a waste of money been there done that. I'm starting to agree. I took 1000 grit auto sanding paper to the trigger bar, connector and safety plunger then used a stainless steel cleaner on them. Trigger smoothed out nicely. |
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IMHO a race gun and a carry gun should be separated or you will compromise both. +1 There is no "race gun". This is my CARRY GUN, that I occasionally shoot steel challenge with. To me, it's a way to get better with my CARRY GUN. I'm not going pro, therefore I do not need to build a "race gun". I do however, like a nice trigger on my carry gun. |
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There is no "race gun". This is my CARRY GUN, that I occasionally shoot steel challenge with. To me, it's a way to get better with my CARRY GUN. I'm not going pro, therefore I do not need to build a "race gun". I do however, like a nice trigger on my carry gun. Quoted:
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IMHO a race gun and a carry gun should be separated or you will compromise both. +1 There is no "race gun". This is my CARRY GUN, that I occasionally shoot steel challenge with. To me, it's a way to get better with my CARRY GUN. I'm not going pro, therefore I do not need to build a "race gun". I do however, like a nice trigger on my carry gun. 2lb trigger seems awful fast my friend. 
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Quoted:
There is no "race gun". This is my CARRY GUN, that I occasionally shoot steel challenge with. To me, it's a way to get better with my CARRY GUN. I'm not going pro, therefore I do not need to build a "race gun". I do however, like a nice trigger on my carry gun. Quoted:
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IMHO a race gun and a carry gun should be separated or you will compromise both. +1 There is no "race gun". This is my CARRY GUN, that I occasionally shoot steel challenge with. To me, it's a way to get better with my CARRY GUN. I'm not going pro, therefore I do not need to build a "race gun". I do however, like a nice trigger on my carry gun. With you all the way..... I do not see so many peoples aversion to having a nicer than stock trigger. I can shoot it faster with tighter groups while retaining a decent pull weight ~4# with a fast short reset. |
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I'm starting to agree. I took 1000 grit auto sanding paper to the trigger bar, connector and safety plunger then used a stainless steel cleaner on them. Trigger smoothed out nicely. Quoted:
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Okay, after learning from a different thread I made about upgrades and doing a lot of reading online, I've made a final decision. This gun is my CCW gun and also the one I use for an occasional competition. I put the gen3 trigger/trigger bar from my Gen3 G22 in the G19. I am also going put a Zev 2lb race connector in and a Zev rounded, stainless steel safety plunger and reduced weight plunger spring in. About $48 total from Amazon. If I can shave 0.5lb to 1lb of weight off the original trigger pull, without sacrificing reliability, I'll be happy. You are going way over board ....... "-" connector, heavy trigger reset spring, and lighter safety plunger spring gave me 3.96# trigger (on a gauge) in my G19.4 I also put a smooth face 17 trigger in mine. I'm a bit perplexed by your statement. I swapped a the trigger bar for a gen3 I already had and plan on putting a lighter connector (same as you) and a smoother plunger and lighter plunger spring in. I will be swapping out the same number of parts as you, only different ones. When you mess with the trigger reset spring, you run the risk of reliability problems. I have changed it on every Glock I have..... You only run that risk if you do not assemble the spring into the trigger bar correctly. The smoother safety plunger/striker block is a gimmick..... It has very little to no difference over a stock one polished up IMO a waste of money been there done that. I'm starting to agree. I took 1000 grit auto sanding paper to the trigger bar, connector and safety plunger then used a stainless steel cleaner on them. Trigger smoothed out nicely. Best avatar of the day BTW. Got a good chuckle from the room. |
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2lb trigger seems awful fast my friend. Quoted:
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IMHO a race gun and a carry gun should be separated or you will compromise both. +1 There is no "race gun". This is my CARRY GUN, that I occasionally shoot steel challenge with. To me, it's a way to get better with my CARRY GUN. I'm not going pro, therefore I do not need to build a "race gun". I do however, like a nice trigger on my carry gun. 2lb trigger seems awful fast my friend. Putting in a Zev 2lb connector will not give you a 2lb trigger pull, not even close. Springs are what give you the biggest reduction in trigger pull. The connector MAY lighten it a few ounces, but it usually just gives you a smoother, more predictable trigger break. The polished safety plunger with a reduced weight plunger spring, gives you less resistance on the trigger bar during the squeeze of the trigger. |
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With you all the way..... I do not see so many peoples aversion to having a nicer than stock trigger. I can shoot it faster with tighter groups while retaining a decent pull weight ~4# with a fast short reset. Quoted:
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IMHO a race gun and a carry gun should be separated or you will compromise both. +1 There is no "race gun". This is my CARRY GUN, that I occasionally shoot steel challenge with. To me, it's a way to get better with my CARRY GUN. I'm not going pro, therefore I do not need to build a "race gun". I do however, like a nice trigger on my carry gun. With you all the way..... I do not see so many peoples aversion to having a nicer than stock trigger. I can shoot it faster with tighter groups while retaining a decent pull weight ~4# with a fast short reset. I have no illusions of having a 1911esk trigger on my G19, but that does not mean I can not try to get a good trigger that I'm comfortable with. I just get scared when it comes to swapping out springs. It has to be 100% reliable. You may have achieved it while swapping springs, I haven't worked up the nerve to try it yet. |
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You are going way over board ....... "-" connector, heavy trigger reset spring, and lighter safety plunger spring gave me 3.96# trigger (on a gauge) in my G19.4 I also put a smooth face 17 trigger in mine. Quoted:
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Okay, after learning from a different thread I made about upgrades and doing a lot of reading online, I've made a final decision. This gun is my CCW gun and also the one I use for an occasional competition. I put the gen3 trigger/trigger bar from my Gen3 G22 in the G19. I am also going put a Zev 2lb race connector in and a Zev rounded, stainless steel safety plunger and reduced weight plunger spring in. About $48 total from Amazon. If I can shave 0.5lb to 1lb of weight off the original trigger pull, without sacrificing reliability, I'll be happy. You are going way over board ....... "-" connector, heavy trigger reset spring, and lighter safety plunger spring gave me 3.96# trigger (on a gauge) in my G19.4 I also put a smooth face 17 trigger in mine. This has been my goto as well. Works great |
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I have changed it on every Glock I have..... You only run that risk if you do not assemble the spring into the trigger bar correctly. The smoother safety plunger/striker block is a gimmick..... It has very little to no difference over a stock one polished up IMO a waste of money been there done that. Quoted:
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Okay, after learning from a different thread I made about upgrades and doing a lot of reading online, I've made a final decision. This gun is my CCW gun and also the one I use for an occasional competition. I put the gen3 trigger/trigger bar from my Gen3 G22 in the G19. I am also going put a Zev 2lb race connector in and a Zev rounded, stainless steel safety plunger and reduced weight plunger spring in. About $48 total from Amazon. If I can shave 0.5lb to 1lb of weight off the original trigger pull, without sacrificing reliability, I'll be happy. You are going way over board ....... "-" connector, heavy trigger reset spring, and lighter safety plunger spring gave me 3.96# trigger (on a gauge) in my G19.4 I also put a smooth face 17 trigger in mine. I'm a bit perplexed by your statement. I swapped a the trigger bar for a gen3 I already had and plan on putting a lighter connector (same as you) and a smoother plunger and lighter plunger spring in. I will be swapping out the same number of parts as you, only different ones. When you mess with the trigger reset spring, you run the risk of reliability problems. I have changed it on every Glock I have..... You only run that risk if you do not assemble the spring into the trigger bar correctly. The smoother safety plunger/striker block is a gimmick..... It has very little to no difference over a stock one polished up IMO a waste of money been there done that. So my final decision wasn't so final after all. You have convinced me to change the trigger spring and safety plunger spring. I ordered the Zev starter pack that comes with 2lb race connector, increased trigger reset spring, reduced safety plunger spring and reduced striker spring. $22 shipped. I already polished the safety plunger and the trigger bar and the OEM connector (just until the new one arrives) and can already tell a big difference. I'm leaving the original striker spring in and forgetting the reduced power one is even there. I don't want to chance light primer strikes. |
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Just me, but for a CCW gun, I'd leave it stock for liability purposes and slimey lawyers who would make YOU look like the bad guy with a modified gun who just shot his client. For a match gun, I like a smoother lighter trigger pull, a slight grip reduction and nice bright fiber optic sights. THIS is a real consideration. For almost no upside I would leave it stock as you can unless its causing an issue. |
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So my final decision wasn't so final after all. You have convinced me to change the trigger spring and safety plunger spring. I ordered the Zev starter pack that comes with 2lb race connector, increased trigger reset spring, reduced safety plunger spring and reduced striker spring. $22 shipped. I already polished the safety plunger and the trigger bar and the OEM connector (just until the new one arrives) and can already tell a big difference. I'm leaving the original striker spring in and forgetting the reduced power one is even there. I don't want to chance light primer strikes. If you have a gauge can you gauge the trigger before and after with the 2lb connector. I use sticky tack on the trigger to keep the gauge about 3/4 the way down the when I measure. My setup consistently comes in right around the 4# mark. |