Posted: 10/8/2015 11:16:52 PM EDT
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I picked up a new G40 last week and finally tried it out today. First off, I'm not an expert Glock guy. I had an older G29 many years ago, accurate gun for a compact 10mm but I just could not stand the feel of it and sold it. I've shot many others since then that friends own, my son has a G27 I shoot once in awhile and I recently got a G43 I've shot extensively.
This new G40 trigger is by far the worst POS glock trigger I've ever felt. I should have paid more attention when buying it but I was so excited to find one at a local dealer I just grabbed it without thinking to dry fire it first. BIG MISTAKE. It has a long spongy feel that doesn't seem to have any "wall". It's just mushy and breaks/goes bang. I also had numerous very quick and unexpected double taps which I have never had shooting any Glock in the past. I honestly feel like there is something wrong with it. That being said, I picked up another G29 (gen4) this evening and the trigger on that is like night/day compared to the G40. I haven't shot the 29 yet but even dry firing it I can tell there is a huge difference and both are new gen4's. When I sold my old G29 I don't think there were folks doing much in the way of grip mods to make them feel better in the hand. I always liked the G29 for it's compact size so I figured I'd give it another try and work the grip if needed. But as far as this G40 goes, it just doesn't feel right. I'm wondering if I should bother having it sent back for warranty repair or just replace the trigger set up myself? Even if it felt ok I'd probably tinker with it anyway. I did a 3.5# ghost connector in the G43 and it was a big improvement so I'm wondering if I should even bother sending this G40 back for warranty. What would you do? One other question. With the G40 being a new model, I don't see much offered for it for parts. I seem to recall reading that the frame is the same as the Gen4 G20. Is that true? If so, I would buy trigger parts or sights for a g20 and they will work in this G40? |
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First off G20 and G40 frame are the same. So are the sights. I have interchange slides and triggers between the two often because I have one set up with a Zev adjustable trigger, and one with an OEM glock trigger and bar that's been polished. Both have ghost connectors and heavier trigger springs. Both slides have lighter plunger safety springs and polished plunger safetys. The G40 slid however has a reduced striker spring from stock 5.5# down to 4#.
I like the G40 frame with OEM trigger for long range target work because it feels like a 2 stage rifle trigger. It comes up easy then hits a wall and breaks predictably. The Zev adjustable trigger is short and to the point and is better for fast firing. I remember the G40 trigger being spongy and going boing when it broke. I didn't care because I planned on modifying it anyway. I would change the connector, trigger spring and plunger safety spring and see how it feels. It will cost less than shipping your pistol probably. If you've changed connector in the past you know the trigger mechanisms are pretty simple. I don't at all understand the double taps you were getting if it has such a long trigger pull unless you were inadvertently shooting off the reset. Someone else would have to explain that one to you. I will say I have been shooting a Gen 3 G20 and G29 for years and I really like the the G40. It takes a lot of the perceived recoil and flip out of the full house 10mm loads. The long sight radius is great and a red dot is better. Good luck. |
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Quoted:
First off G20 and G40 frame are the same. So are the sights. I have interchange slides and triggers between the two often because I have one set up with a Zev adjustable trigger, and one with an OEM glock trigger and bar that's been polished. Both have ghost connectors and heavier trigger springs. Both slides have lighter plunger safety springs and polished plunger safetys. The G40 slid however has a reduced striker spring from stock 5.5# down to 4#. I like the G40 frame with OEM trigger for long range target work because it feels like a 2 stage rifle trigger. It comes up easy then hits a wall and breaks predictably. The Zev adjustable trigger is short and to the point and is better for fast firing. I remember the G40 trigger being spongy and going boing when it broke. I didn't care because I planned on modifying it anyway. I would change the connector, trigger spring and plunger safety spring and see how it feels. It will cost less than shipping your pistol probably. If you've changed connector in the past you know the trigger mechanisms are pretty simple. I don't at all understand the double taps you were getting if it has such a long trigger pull unless you were inadvertently shooting off the reset. Someone else would have to explain that one to you. I will say I have been shooting a Gen 3 G20 and G29 for years and I really like the the G40. It takes a lot of the perceived recoil and flip out of the full house 10mm loads. The long sight radius is great and a red dot is better. Good luck. Thanks for the input and advice. I was thinking of a connector and spring change first and starting there so I'll try that now that I know I can order the g20 parts and they will fit. I also haven't taken it apart to study the quality of the parts yet other than a barrel swab and quick lube job before shooting it. Maybe be there is an issue I can see? Have there been any known issues with gen 4 triggers? I would love to have a nice 2 stage feel to the trigger. I've been shooting garands for 30 years and that's what I'm used too. I even use 2 stage triggers in my AR's. I was also thinking of getting a G20 upper for this but I haven't seen any for sale. Everything on GB says Gen3 and won't work on a Gen4? Been a big fan of the 10mm for a long time. My first was a SW 1006 that was worked over by their performance center. One of the smoothest, accurate 10mm's I've ever owned but I ended up selling it and most of my other guns in the mid 90's due to a divorce. I really miss that one. I have three 1911's in 10mm so I'm all set there, made the decision to try Glock. Again. :) |
| Right now the G40 has a highly polished stock trigger& bar. A Ghost Ultimate connector. A titanium striker. The springs came in a kit, Wilson maybe. 6# trigger spring. 4# striker spring. A reduced weight safety plunger plunger spring. Trigger pull is about 3.25# at the break. |
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Quoted:
Some of the trigger's issues can be shot out. Break the gun in with a few hundred rounds, or a bunch of dry firing can do it too. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile When I first started tinkering with Glock triggers, I sat down with 5 different connectors. When I installed each of them I would dry fire them over and over to get a feel for the differences in the connectors. I swear I could feel some of them change slowly after 40 or 50 dry firings. Drove my wife nuts. 
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Quoted:
When I first started tinkering with Glock triggers, I sat down with 5 different connectors. When I installed each of them I would dry fire them over and over to get a feel for the differences in the connectors. I swear I could feel some of them change slowly after 40 or 50 dry firings. Drove my wife nuts.
Quoted:
Quoted:
Some of the trigger's issues can be shot out. Break the gun in with a few hundred rounds, or a bunch of dry firing can do it too. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile When I first started tinkering with Glock triggers, I sat down with 5 different connectors. When I installed each of them I would dry fire them over and over to get a feel for the differences in the connectors. I swear I could feel some of them change slowly after 40 or 50 dry firings. Drove my wife nuts.
Things smooth out with some wear. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile |
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Update on my "mushy" G40 trigger. I started by polishing the stock parts. That made it smoother and made the "break" more noticeable but it still sucked bad. Next I replaced the connector with a "-" polished one. Really didn't seem to make any change. Next, I installed a Wolf competition spring kit and left the "-" connector in. It's better but still not good. It has a 2 stage feel to it but it still has the mushy feel and seems to break too easy although I did not actually measure the pull weight. I have another spring kit to try next, a Wolf "self defense" kit. If that does not work I am going to swap out the entire works from my other Gen4 and see how it works in this G40 frame and then put the mushy setup in the other gun. I'll see if the problem follows the trigger setup and maybe help narrow it down to either a frame or slide issue?
I noticed the G40 has the smooth trigger vs serrated. Have those been an issue? |
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How does it compare to the other Glocks now? Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile I have it fixed, but I don't know why/how it did it. First off, the reason the "-" connector didn't seem to make a difference is because the original one in it from the factory was already a "-", just not a polished one. I never noticed it when I took it out. So I went and installed the self defense spring kit, that made it worse than ever. Hard first stage, then a harder second stage, and then a harder yet third stage and long break. WTF? A three stage trigger? I got fed up, took everything out and went back to the stock springs and connector. Got back to where I started with a mushy pull and little felt break. I then decided to move the entire G40 trigger group into my G29 which has an excellent stock trigger setup, and put the G29 group into the G40. That G29 has a nice first stage pull, hits a solid wall and breaks nice and clean at 5.5 lbs everytime. I put the G29 group into the G40, it works great. First stage pull is smooth, hits the wall, then breaks but is harder than the G29 it came out of. I let it sit and move back to the G40 group and install that in the G29, now expecting the mushy trigger to rear it's ugly head again. Nope. The G40 trigger group, which is horrible in the G40, works awesome in the G29, feels even better than the one I took out but breaks just a bit on the light side for a carry gun. I attribute that to the "-" connector that is stock in the G40 group. So now I have two entirely stock trigger groups, both feel great. One works good in both guns, the G40 group only works in the G29. WTF is going on? On the G40, it now feels great but break is bit hard. I took out the connector (original to the G29) and it has a "." on it. Is that another type or just a misc. mark? Anyway, I put the polished "-" connector in it, now it feels better and a little smoother but still just a tad heavy on the break. I then installed the competition spring kit again and now it feels better but to light on the break. I left the trigger spring and safety spring and went back to the stock striker spring. Perfect! Take up is now nice and smooth, breaks clean at 4 lbs. I'm done with that one! I go back to the G29 which now has the G40 group in it that works ok other than being a bit light on the break. I pulled out the "-" connector, put the "." connector in it and now that one is GTG. What a trip. I still can't understand why that G40 group sucks so bad in the 40 yet works fine in the 29? And the 29 group works fine in both. Now I need range time with both to see if they will keep working. BTW, when you guys talk about "trigger reset", how exactly do you check that? |
| To check the trigger reset you will need to pull the trigger and then rack the slide while holding the trigger down still. Release the trigger slowly and you will get to a point where it clicks "resets". It is then ready to fire again without having to let it all the way back out. This is why a lot of folks play with different connector kits and such to shorten reset and takeup for competition or speed shooting. |