Posted: 4/12/2015 6:57:59 PM EDT
| Just got a Glock 19c Gen3 FOR FREE! Must say I've been primarily a 1911 owner and this is the first Glock I've owned/shot. Needless to say I'm not a huge fan of the trigger. Too much take up and trigger feels too heavy to me. I was browsing around for some solutions and it seems like everyone says connectors and springs. What are the best connectors to lighted the trigger and take out some of the take up? Also what else could I do to help out? |
| It is simply a different animal than a 1911. Nothing you do will make it feel like a 1911. Shooting to reset - fire the. Release trigger just enough to get the reset click will result in much shorter subsequent pulls with little difficulty with accuracy. Tinkering often pushes you down a rabbit hole of chasing malfunctions. If it runs as is do a few thousand dry and live fires and you will get used to it. |
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It is simply a different animal than a 1911. Nothing you do will make it feel like a 1911. Shooting to reset - fire the. Release trigger just enough to get the reset click will result in much shorter subsequent pulls with little difficulty with accuracy. Tinkering often pushes you down a rabbit hole of chasing malfunctions. If it runs as is do a few thousand dry and live fires and you will get used to it. +1 |
| I did the springs and connector replacement on one of my Glock pistols. The trigger feels good much smoother and better trigger reset compared to stock. I then got into Zev Technologies Fulcrum Ultimate competition trigger kit and that was it. It is a drop in kit and makes my Glock setup how I like with a more consistent trigger pull and reset. |
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My favorite combo for range pistol is a - connector, comp trigger reset spring, and lighter safety plunger spring (if it is a compact\sub I replace the trigger/bar with a smooth face G17 trigger).
My carry I replace the trigger bar with a G17 trigger, heavier trigger reset spring and stock connector. |
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Just got a Glock 19c Gen3 FOR FREE! Must say I've been primarily a 1911 owner and this is the first Glock I've owned/shot. Needless to say I'm not a huge fan of the trigger. Too much take up and trigger feels too heavy to me. I was browsing around for some solutions and it seems like everyone says connectors and springs. What are the best connectors to lighted the trigger and take out some of the take up? Also what else could I do to help out? DK customs. Shooting buddy has them in his competition glocks. Blows my Zev Ultimate out of the water. |
| Some people tinker as noted above with positive results for them. I will warn you though nearly every glock I have seen choke on the firing line of the matches I attend all have one thing in common- aftermarket parts. There is no end to threads here and elsewhere that go something like "my perfectly functional glock after replacing x y and z with aftermarket parts now doesn't run" |
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Some people tinker as noted above with positive results for them. I will warn you though nearly every glock I have seen choke on the firing line of the matches I attend all have one thing in common- aftermarket parts. There is no end to threads here and elsewhere that go something like "my perfectly functional glock after replacing x y and z with aftermarket parts now doesn't run" Install the parts correctly. It's that simple. If you read into those threads, it also comes back that they either installed parts wrong, or re assembled the gun incorrectly leading to their problems. Glocks run just fine modded out the ass if done by someone with half a brain that knows what they're doing. |
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Some people tinker as noted above with positive results for them. I will warn you though nearly every glock I have seen choke on the firing line of the matches I attend all have one thing in common- aftermarket parts. There is no end to threads here and elsewhere that go something like "my perfectly functional glock after replacing x y and z with aftermarket parts now doesn't run" Eh, that's why you always prove to yourself that it functions properly at the range before putting it in a holster and carrying it around. I've never had an aftermarket connector, return spring, or safety plunger cause a problem and I've used a bunch of different ones in a bunch of different Glocks. Honestly I've never had an issue with my Fulcrum trigger kit, skeletonized striker, or lighter striker springs either, but I still wouldn't recommend that stuff for a carry gun. |
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A " - " connector and #6 spring is quite nice. Add the safety plunger spring and it gives a better take up feel but yeah the reset spring should be standard on the Glock. I bet a lot more people would like the Glock because the stock one just leaves the trigger mushy and adding a - connector with stock spring feels like a mushy clunk when it is fired. |
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I've found that all you need is the right 3.5# connector and a Competition Trigger Spring for a lighter and crisper trigger. Much of the pre-travel and all of the over travel will be eliminated and you'll love your new trigger. Best of all is that it’s both cheap (about $20) and so easy you can do it yourself in just a couple of minutes. 3.5# Connector: I've tried Glock, Scherer, and Lone Wolf 3.5# connectors in my Glocks and Lone Wolf's is the best hands down because it gives you the best 'break' with less take up and over travel when used with the Competition Trigger Spring. The other two connectors left a mushy feel in the trigger. You can get it from Glockparts.com for $15 HERE. Comp Trigger Spring: The Comp Trigger Spring is a higher weight spring (6lbs vs 5lbs) and because the spring works with you pulling the trigger, not against you, the higher spring weight gives you a lighter and crisper pull. Glockparts.com has them for $5 HERE. While you’re at it, give your Glock a 25¢ trigger job by following the instructions HERE. Its really quite simple to do and you’ll be pleased with the results. For instructions on replacing your connector and trigger spring, as well as disassembling your Glock, check out Glockparts Disassembly Page. Just click "Glock Disassembly" on the left of his home page. They give instructions with photos to help you do it. Glocks are simple to work on so give it a try. |
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A " - " connector and #6 spring is quite nice. This is almost what I was going to say. I also like to add the Lone Wolf trigger stop to eliminate the over travel. Is Johnny Glocks still in business? Anyone have comments about his work? I've seen his YouTube video's but that is it. |
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I've found that all you need is the right 3.5# connector anda Competition Trigger Spring for a lighter and crisper trigger. Much of the pre-traveland all of the over travel will be eliminated and you'll love your new trigger.Best of all is that it’s both cheap (about $20) and so easy you can do ityourself in just a couple of minutes. 3.5# Connector:I've tried Glock, Scherer, and Lone Wolf 3.5# connectors in my Glocks and LoneWolf's is the best hands down because it gives you the best 'break' with lesstake up and over travel when used with the Competition Trigger Spring. Theother two connectors left a mushy feel in the trigger. You can get it fromGlockparts.com for $15 HERE. Comp Trigger Spring:The Comp Trigger Spring is a higher weight spring (6lbs vs 5lbs) and becausethe spring works with you pulling the trigger, not against you, thehigher spring weight gives you a lighter and crisper pull. Glockparts.com hasthem for $5 HERE. While you’re at it, give your Glock a 25¢ trigger job byfollowing the instructions HERE. Its really quite simple to do and you’ll be pleasedwith the results. For instructions on replacing your connector and triggerspring, as well as disassembling your Glock, check out Glockparts DisassemblyPage. Just click "Glock Disassembly" on the left of his home page.They give instructions with photos to help you do it. Glocks are simple to workon so give it a try. Glock OEM "-" connector is the best feeling one I've tried and now goes into every Glock I buy immediately along with 6lb spring and polish job. |
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ZEV connector, trigger return spring, and safety plunger spring. Leave the striker spring alone unless it's a competition/range only gun. I have the striker spring in mine but i also have their striker. I also put in the TiN safety plunger in for good measure. My guns shoot fine. |
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I have the striker spring in mine but i also have their striker. I also put in the TiN safety plunger in for good measure. My guns shoot fine. Quoted:
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ZEV connector, trigger return spring, and safety plunger spring. Leave the striker spring alone unless it's a competition/range only gun. I have the striker spring in mine but i also have their striker. I also put in the TiN safety plunger in for good measure. My guns shoot fine. I have used lighter striker springs and the skeletonized striker without any trouble, too, but I have read where others have had issues. I generally avoid that stuff in a carry gun just to be on the safe side. I have a few of the TiN safety plungers, too. I don't really notice them making much of a difference. |
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As one old crusty mofo raised on the 1911 platform I can tell you two things:
1-To shoot a Glock well, I put all my other toys down and focus on Glocks. It gets easier. 2-There is no such thing as achieving a 1911ish trigger pull on a Glock. No S&W revolver type surprise break either. Sorry. The more people swap parts and chase the unicorn...the more primer sensitive the firearm becomes. I wont be slave to federal primers even though I have an ample supply in the rabbit hole. Spend time on a shooting coach and learn the straight pull technique and how to ride the trigger for reset. |
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As one old crusty mofo raised on the 1911 platform I can tell you two things: 1-To shoot a Glock well, I put all my other toys down and focus on Glocks. It gets easier. 2-There is no such thing as achieving a 1911ish trigger pull on a Glock. No S&W revolver type surprise break either. Sorry. The more people swap parts and chase the unicorn...the more primer sensitive the firearm becomes. I wont be slave to federal primers even though I have an ample supply in the rabbit hole. Spend time on a shooting coach and learn the straight pull technique and how to ride the trigger for reset. Not true at all until you start messing with striker springs. And a good Glock trigger can be obtained without messing with striker springs. |
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For a 19 I'd swap the trigger out for a G17 trigger and hone then polish all of the contact points on the trigger bar and firing pin. Use extreme care to make sure you maintain the factory angles on the trigger bar and firing pin!! You don't want to alter any angles, just smooth out the crappy surface that comes from mass production stamped parts. I also polish all of the other areas in the .25 cent trigger job. Always check engagement after, usually it's much improved.
You'll have a much better trigger. No need to spend a ton of money on triggers/parts that are no better than doing this to the factory parts. |
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For a 19 I'd swap the trigger out for a G17 trigger and hone then polish all of the contact points on the trigger bar and firing pin. Use extreme care to make sure you maintain the factory angles on the trigger bar and firing pin!! You don't want to alter any angles, just smooth out the crappy surface that comes from mass production stamped parts. I also polish all of the other areas in the .25 cent trigger job. Always check engagement after, usually it's much improved. You'll have a much better trigger. No need to spend a ton of money on triggers/parts that are no better than doing this to the factory parts. .25 cent trigger job makes a very noticeable improvement - but you're flat out wrong if you think it's as good as an oem "-" connector and 6lb trigger spring combo, which is about ~$20 worth of parts and 5 min of your time to swap. |
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.25 cent trigger job makes a very noticeable improvement - but you're flat out wrong if you think it's as good as an oem "-" connector and 6lb trigger spring combo, which is about ~$20 worth of parts and 5 min of your time to swap. Quoted:
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For a 19 I'd swap the trigger out for a G17 trigger and hone then polish all of the contact points on the trigger bar and firing pin. Use extreme care to make sure you maintain the factory angles on the trigger bar and firing pin!! You don't want to alter any angles, just smooth out the crappy surface that comes from mass production stamped parts. I also polish all of the other areas in the .25 cent trigger job. Always check engagement after, usually it's much improved. You'll have a much better trigger. No need to spend a ton of money on triggers/parts that are no better than doing this to the factory parts. .25 cent trigger job makes a very noticeable improvement - but you're flat out wrong if you think it's as good as an oem "-" connector and 6lb trigger spring combo, which is about ~$20 worth of parts and 5 min of your time to swap. I've never had the need to go beyond what I described so I'd never know. All of my guns are carry guns so I have no desire to "lighten" the trigger beyond what it comes from the factory with for springs and parts. I do however want smoother and much better trigger feel and a predictable and consistent break as well as a fast reset. Keeping the original parts and smoothing them over does that and it's plenty "light" for me. Start with something simple before you go spend a ton of money for aftermarket parts/trigger kits. I installed a trigger kit for someone locally on 1 of his range guns and then did what I described to another 1 of his. He wished he hadn't spent the $100+ on a trigger kit.... YMMV..... |
| Of all the posts nigla is right on. Mirrors my statements. If you master a glock trigger as is the tinkering is pretty much useless unless you are a master class uspsa guy trying to shave fractions of a second off run times. If you do not master the glock trigger, no amount of tinkering really gets you any better at running it. |
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My favorite combo for range pistol is a - connector, comp trigger reset spring, and lighter safety plunger spring (if it is a compact\sub I replace the trigger/bar with a smooth face G17 trigger). My carry I replace the trigger bar with a G17 trigger, heavier trigger reset spring and stock connector. I just installed a - connector and comp spring: very nice. I tried just a - connector before and hated it because it was nasty, mushy take up followed by a weird clunkish break. Gross. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile |