Posted: 3/27/2014 2:21:57 PM EDT
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My glock 21 gen 3 came with quite the spongy trigger. There is the typical glock take up, then a wall, then the break, which feels like wet bendy carrot. My dads glock, a 30, has a very crisp OEM trigger, feels like glass compared to mine.
They both have the 5# connectors. My 21 has about 1500 rds fired + tons of dry fire, so I'm pretty sure the damn trigger is broken in. What parts do I change to achieve a crisper break? I want to stick with OEM parts. You think a new 5# connector? Or entire trigger bar ass.? New trigger spring? This is my carry gun and I like the 5lb trigger. But they are so cheap I'm willing to drop in a 3# connector for testing/comparison. Need your help guys! |
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The 3# connector will just make it MORE spongy aka 'creep' since the trigger bar has more distance to travel before it can release the striker. Some describe this as a rolling break, and prefer it for bullseye shooting.
When the factory 5.5lb trigger feels spongy it's usually because the connector is bent out too far and is pinching the trigger bar against the frame. (OR, the connector is not inserted all the way - if you've recently had it apart.) Another option might be that there is no lube on the connector or it is dirty. Read up before you go bending anything. *If you have both in front of you, remove the slides and compare the range of motion of the trigger bars - wiggling them and letting the trigger spring pull it back. (sometime the trigger safety will engage and you have to depress it for the trigger bar to go back again.) You'll quickly notice if it's pinching. If none of this makes sense  - you'll need to study up and understand how the Glock works or just let someone else figure it out.
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I took both pistols completely apart today, I did notice that my connector was sticking out funny but it was and still is fully inserted. I also thought it was normal since ive never looked before. I lubed all areas that had wear marks with motor oil and it feels ever s o slightly better.
I also tried different things like putting the connector from the crisp gun into the spongy gun, putting the trigger assembly and connector from the crisp gun into the spongy gun. They both helped, but I couldn't replicated my dads crispy trigger in my 21. I am tempted to just get all new replacement guts and o through trial and error but I wanted the arf gods advice first. ADDITIONAL QUESTION. Is it ok to be completely stripping the glock so frequently. I'd never completely stripped it before, and during my trial/eror testing process today I musta removed those roll pins 1/2a dozen times. I'd hate to wear out my glock frame from incessant disassembly |
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Quoted:
I took both pistols completely apart today, I did notice that my connector was sticking out funny but it was and still is fully inserted. I also thought it was normal since ive never looked before. I lubed all areas that had wear marks with motor oil and it feels ever s o slightly better. I also tried different things like putting the connector from the crisp gun into the spongy gun, putting the trigger assembly and connector from the crisp gun into the spongy gun. They both helped, but I couldn't replicated my dads crispy trigger in my 21. I am tempted to just get all new replacement guts and o through trial and error but I wanted the arf gods advice first. ADDITIONAL QUESTION. Is it ok to be completely stripping the glock so frequently. I'd never completely stripped it before, and during my trial/eror testing process today I musta removed those roll pins 1/2a dozen times. I'd hate to wear out my glock frame from incessant disassembly The connector IS supposed to stick out at an angle - supposedly just enough to get a sheet of paper in between it and the trigger housing... SOMETIMES that extra little bit of 'crispyness' is from the way the trigger bar and the striker meet up. You may try swapping slides if the trigger bar isn't getting hung up on the frame. I have one Glock in particular that's as crisp as can be WITHOUT the $0.25 polish and I'm leaving it be. Experiment with a wipe of lube on the striker heel where it meets the trigger bar. (Sometimes the very last bit of 'creep' can be from the extra space between the slide rails and the slide << but that's mega OCD shit lol.) I wouldn't buy new parts just yet. Maybe a new trigger bar + connector $25??? but not the $40 striker assembly. I wouldn't do this until I was absolutely CERTAIN that it wasn't binding against anything. Have you polished these Glocks?? Sometimes doing it reduces the crispness but does lighten the pull and makes depressing the FPS less clunky. Taking out the pins 6 times isn't going to do anything as long as you aren't whacking them with a hammer, and you know to jiggle the slide stop for the trigger pin. You just don't need to detail strip the gun EVERYTIME you clean it. You'll know if they're loose, a coat of paint or clear nail polish will tighten them right back up. |
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Both pistols are bone stock, no polishing. My buddy who has done many .25 c jobs says that all it does for him is reduce grit, but doesn't help with creep or sponginess.
I think it is more of a connector issue, but I'm a NEWB. I have ran the pistol with grease where the tigger bar meets the striker, and that didn't help at all. The depressing of the firing pin safety is soft and smooth, then I hit the wall. After that it feels like I'm bending a big carrot, like the trigger has to move farther back then it should need to before the striker flies home. Don't get me wrong, it's not damn near as spongy as a S&W sigma, but I figure with parts availability, and the simplicitly of the pistol, there has to be a solution. I think I will pick up some new connectors from glock and maybe a new trigger spring? |
double tap
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pErD6k1QGUk
2:10 - 2:45 ... maybe, not sure I'd do it this way but you get the point - but if I didn't have the right tools ... (a couple pliers or vise grips)
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Ok I ever so slightly bent my connector inwards. Now I can slide a post it note between the trigger housing and the connector, but barely any light shines through. I hit all the surfaces with wear marks on them with a Dremel Tool I attached a small buffing wheel to. I visually didn't see a difference there, but I don't have any polishing compound so whatever. I lightly oiled all the contact points and reassembled.
It is definetly much better now. I have eliminated about 2/3 of the mush. Will range check next Wednesday hopefully. |
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If you understand the terminology:
(1) Polish the contact face of the striker’s lug. (This is the part of the lug that makes contact with the trigger bar’s, ‘sear plate’.) (2) Polish both sides and the top of the trigger bar’s, ‘bird’s head’. (3) Polish the top of the striker safety cam. (The front, ‘hump’ on the trigger bar.) (4) Take the time to carefully and completely polish the entire striker safety, ‘button’. (5) Polish the entire area around the striker’s safety and, ‘pass-through’ grooves on the front of the striker. (The area that makes contact with the striker safety, ‘button’. (6) First polish, and then install a Ghost, Inc., ‘EVO’ connector. In order to properly install this connector follow the instructions that come with it, or can be found on Ghost’s website under, ‘Installation’. (Ghost connectors often require a final adjustment before they’ll work right. One of the previous posters has already told you about, ‘the paper trick’. It’s usually done with a strip of 20# letter paper.) (7) Change both the trigger and striker springs to, ‘extra heavy’ (6 lbs.) Wolff Gunsprings. Use a standard weight recoil spring, too. I’ve done this work on all of my EDC Glock pistols. The final trigger pulls are a cumulative result of the connector's top angle, AND ALL the springs working together. My Glocks operate in a range from 4.9 to 5.2 lbs. when measured from the middle of the trigger’s face. The resets are, ‘as clean as breaking glass’; and the trigger break, itself, is nice ‘n sharp. I have been repeatedly told that my Glock triggers are THE VERY BEST Glock triggers that can be produced using primarily stock, factory parts. My Glocks are early and midrange serial number 3rd generation pistols. If your Glock is newer than this you may not be able to achieve the same high degree of smoothness as I have because newer Glock pistols have a more severe, ‘sear plate’ angle than the older Glocks. (Supposed to be safer; and I’d say this is true; except the triggers can’t be made as light and clean-breaking as they used to be. Still I recently did a new G-19; and I ALMOST got the trigger there! (Certainly better than brand new and right out of the box.) I wasn’t going to say it because far too many people really don’t know how to polish metal or, more specifically, how to correctly use a Dremel Tool; but, ...... I do use a Dremel Tool to put a mirror-polish on my Glocks' entire internal trigger mechanisms. (This takes time - hours - and needs a patient touch. You’ve got to be very aware of heat buildup, and be extra careful NOT to remove any metal, while you're polishing - Not everybody is able to accomplish this without rounding corners and removing metal. If this isn’t your level of expertise my strong suggestion would be to ignore my last remark, and don’t dremel anything.) NOTES: It is NOT a good idea to repeatedly remove the pins and completely breakdown a Glock’s polymer frame more than once or twice a year. Even then, I prefer to soak the frame in kerosene and use Q-Tips to clean out the frame’s recesses rather than to keep pressing out those pins. When you work with an armorer’s tool (or 3/32’s drift punch) keep your fingers close to the tool’s tip. This way you’ll have more control over the shaft; and you’ll be less likely to scratch the frame. I assume you already know the trick about wiggling the slide stop in order to get the #2 (trigger) pin seated all the way home. You can do it either way; but there’s an advantage to following AR-15 protocol and remove a Glock’s pins from left-to-right. Thereafter they should be reinstalled by working from right-to-left. The current armorer’s manual recommends removing and installing the pins in the order of: #1, #3, and #2. This would make sense if you were working on a high quality bolt-action rifle; but, to follow this action lockdown procedure on a plastic pistol? I think the armorer’s manual is taking itself much too seriously. I’ve been using the insertion and removal order of: #1, #2, and #3 for the past 10 years; and I will continue to do so. Polished Trigger Bar and Lock Block: http://i1034.photobucket.com/albums/a422/69204Me/PinOutANDFilled-InTrigger3_zpsb5ab7516.jpg Ghost, 'EVO' Connector w/ Trigger Stop: http://i1034.photobucket.com/albums/a422/69204Me/07d0c322-9303-409f-891b-f2de5fa59b84_zps3469d58f.jpg |
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Thank you so much for the excellent right up. I will be using a q tip to do to polishing as I cringe when I hear the word Dremel and gun in the same sentence. I am not confident in my ability with the Dremel and would rather take the extra time doing the slower q tip method.
Thanks for the advice |
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You’re welcome!
Listen, using a Q-Tip to polish a Glock’s internal parts is a complete waste of time. At best you’ll achieve less than 30% of what you can accomplish with even a light power-polishing job. Everybody has to start somewhere. Even me! More than two decades ago when I first began using a Dremel Tool I practiced my polishing (and other metal working techniques) by working on old pieces of metal; and, in particular, on old knife blades. Once I got a feel for it I graduated to gun parts. Here’s how to begin: 1. Run your Dremel (or Dremel-type) tool at or below 1,500 RPM. (This is a very low speed setting - OK! You can speed things up as you gain confidence.) 2. Practice on a few unimportant metal parts, first. 3. Use Flitz Metal Polish, or Simichrome Polish. It’s a lot less messy than jeweler’s rouge. 4. Apply the polish TO THE METAL PART AND ALLOW IT TO DRY FOR A FEW MINUTES before you begin polishing. Do not apply the polish to the polishing wheel, itself, because it’ll fly all over the place. Do not attempt to polish while the polishing paste is still wet for the same reason. 5. Here’s the, ‘trick’: Stay away from all edges and corners! Leave all 90% edges strictly alone. 6. DO NOT APPLY PRESSURE while you’re polishing. Only lightly touch the part - Nothing more. 7. Work barehanded, and be aware of any heat buildup in the part. If the part begins to get noticeable warm, stop and allow it to cool down. 8. DO NOT ALLOW THE POLISHING HEAD TO REMAIN IN CONTACT WITH THE PART FOR MORE THAN 8 TO 10 SECONDS AT A TIME. Then stop, and examine the part before continuing. 9. Develop a sense of timing. For instance it shouldn’t take longer than 4 to 6 minutes to do an absolutely fantastic polishing job on a Glock connector, striker, or even the entire trigger bar. 10. Wipe the part down first with a paper towel, and then with a clean polishing rag when you’re finished. If you do NOT apply heavy hand pressure, if you do NOT polish for excessive amounts of time, and if you stay away from running the tool along any 90 degree angles, then, you will NOT get yourself in trouble. The parts on a Glock that take the longest to put a (necessary) high shine on are the: (1) striker safety, ‘button’, (2) front end of the striker, and (3) top edge of the trigger bar’s striker safety cam. Nowadays I run a Dremel Tool at a good 5,000 RPM; and it still takes me about eight minutes, or so, to get these parts where I want them to be. Here’s a deal on a quality polishing tool that very few people know about: http://www.gyrostools.com/Rotary-Tools---*Dremel%C2%AE-Type/c65/p474/PowerPro-Cordless-Rotary-Tool-Kit/product_info.html Change your springs as I’ve indicated above. Use a properly set up Ghost, ‘EVO’ connector; REALLY polish your Glock internals as I’ve, now, shown you how to do; and YOU WILL NOT BELIEVE just how: smooth, clean, and crisp your Glock’s trigger is going to be! (I’ve been, ‘wowing’ other Glock owners with my Glock action jobs for more than a decade, now; AND the good part is that your Glock will continue to be safe for EDC use. (No excessively light trigger pull, and no out-of-spec mechanical idiosyncrasies.) Follow these instructions and you, too, will have a clean, crisp, smooth resetting Glock trigger. (Just be aware that the, ‘front end creep’ will still be there; BUT, it’s only noticeable on the first shot; and, if you’re like me, I doubt that you’ll care.) Good luck! NOTE: Wear an old shirt and put a towel or other cloth down before you begin working. Metal polishing is an inherently dirty job; and you'll see what I mean once you start doing it. Sometimes, and because I already know how to polish, I'll wear a pair of THIN Nitrile or latex gloves while I'm working. (Saves having to really clean up my hands when the job is done.) |