Posted: 5/11/2012 7:38:37 PM EDT
| Hey all, I have a Gen 4, Glock 22, I remember seeing a few posts on Gen 4 issues and a few folks talk about replacing the extractor/(RSA?) because of factory faulty parts, was wondering if anyone knows more info if it relates to Gen 4, and where abouts to get it fixed, back to the local gunshop or send it to glock factory? the glock was purchased few months ago, and has about 600+ rounds through it, it does shoot left even at 15-20yds on paper, it won't shoot straight any farther out, with me or with 2 other friends who use 1911's and more experienced than me, i have a ghost 5.0 tactical trigger, so i should be aiming straight, am i just paranoid or should i just "break it in" more and work on my grip/pull more? or could it be my sights (factory white ugly ones) not adjusted... |
| If you have had no feeding or ejection / extraction problems with your G22, keep right on shooting it...no need to fix what isn'r broken. While shooting left is probably you more than the gun, you might tap the rear sight slightly to the right and see if that helps. |
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Quoted:
If you have had no feeding or ejection / extraction problems with your G22, keep right on shooting it...no need to fix what isn'r broken. While shooting left is probably you more than the gun, you might tap the rear sight slightly to the right and see if that helps. Any advice on doing that safely? I googled but says the front sight has a pin in the slides, no info on how to move the rear. |
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Many people shoot left with Glocks, even if they are experienced with other firearms. You just have to get used to shooting a Glock to shoot centered. For me, I changed my grip so that my extended thumb and forefinger were parallel, I focus on pulling the trigger straight back, the part of my finger pad centered on the trigger is just off-center of the finger pad closer to the joint. I also focus on making sure that the rest of my trigger finger is not touching the grip of the gun just behind the trigger guard as I pull the trigger. I shoot centered now, not very accurately but at least it's centered.
As long as you see the same amount of space on either side of the rear sight, it doesn't need to be adjusted. There are two ways to adjust the rear sight. The safe way is with a Glock rear sight pusher tool, the cheapest good quality one I've seen was $90, I think it's like $100 now. The other way to do it is to tap the rear sight with a punch and a hammer, you DON'T want to do that if the rear sight has tritium vials for night sights. In order to do that, you need to secure the slide in place. One way is to secure it between two screwed-down pieces of wood. Another way is to put the slide in a PADDED vice, but you don't want the vice to apply pressure to the slide rails, the area of the ejection port, or any area further forward of the ejection port. When I did it, I taped pieces of cereal box cardboard to the teeth of the vice and layered them in such a way that the vice did not apply pressure to the slide rails. The punch I used was a DPMS Delrin Punch for AR-15's, I used that punch because it's a soft material with next to no risk of scratching the slide or deforming the rear sight. This is the area that the PADDED vice should tighten down on the slide, if pressure is applied by the vice below that green box, it can bend the slide rails inward and ruin the slide. If the vice applies pressure around the ejection port or forward of the ejection port, it can bend or crack the slide in those areas and ruin the slide. 
Here's a pretty good sight installation video by Dawson. The only way my method differs from his is that he uses red loctite rather than blue. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4maCQhEIjoA For the front sight, the newest factory front sights use a 3/16 inch hex nut screw. You need a thin-walled 3/16 inch hex nut wrench to remove and re-install that screw, a front sight wrench for Glocks will work. I personally used a Lone Wolf 4 in 1 tool, it's a brass tool with a wrench for changing the front sight. Older Glock front sights were staked or pinned on. To remove them, you use a pair of pliers to torque them off of the slide with care not to scratch the slide. Once they're removed you cannot reuse them. When I installed my Glock factory steel front sight, I degreased the sight and the screw with rubbing alcohol then let both air dry, then I applied a small drop of blue loctite to the threads of the front sight screw and installed it, turning the wrench as tightly as I could with only the amount of strength from my thumb and forefinger. I let the loctite set for 48 hours before applying oil anywhere near the sight or shooting the gun. For the updated parts in a Gen4 G22, the most up-to-date ejector should have 28926 on it. The old ejector would have 1882. You do not need to upgrade the ejector unless you're experiencing erratic ejection. If the gun ejects well with the 1882 ejector, don't change it. For the RSA, it should have 0-1-4 on the metal base of the guide rod. If it's an older version and you want to upgrade it, here's how: http://us.glock.com/customer-service/recoil-spring-exchange And lastly the latest connector for the Gen4 is the "dot" connector. Early Gen4's had the standard connector, the same as Gen3, and it has no marking on it. With that connector, a Gen4 has about a half pound heavier trigger pull than a Gen3 does with that connector. Glock made the "dot" connector to bring the Gen4 trigger pull weight down to about the same as a Gen3 would have with the standard connector, about 5.5lbs. In the picture below, you'll see two red arrows pointing to the - symbol on the "minus/3.5" connector. A "dot" connector would instead have a dot marking there, the standard connector would have no marking. 
If you want the dot connector, you can order one from glockparts.com, but in the "NOTES" section when you order, you must supply the first three letters of the serial number of your Gen4 to get the connector. If you do not supply that information, or it does not match the serial number prefix of a Gen4, they will not be able to send you a dot connector. http://glockparts.com/Detail.aspx?PROD=236286&CAT=705 |