Posted: 4/20/2012 9:59:00 AM EDT
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I have been carrying a G22 now for 4 years as my issued duty sidearm. It has been a really reliable handgun, after I got the tac light issues ironed out. However, I have large hands, and try as I might, I have not been able to avoid railroad tracks on the web of my thumb at every range session. I was unwilling to take a lower grip, and give up my accuracy and quick recovery of the high hand hold on the glock. I had given up. I pleaded with the boss to allow me to carrying a private purchase sidearm with some sort of beaver tail. Like most administrators the answer was no, the reason stated was utter bullshit. He offered to purchase a Gen 4 G22, but I went and shot one with the different back straps, but it had the same result. Angry, I sold all my personal glocks, (except my G19, for my wife). I then tried to find a better solution, but nothing exists in the polymer world that does what glock does. I like the M&P, but it doesn't have parts availability like Glock. Not to mention, I'm a Glock certified armorer.
Finally, I stumbled upon the Grip Force Adapter. Its only $30, so what the hell. I installed it, and holy crap it WORKS!!!! No rail road tracks!!!! The grip angle, well never a problem for me, is a little more natural, kinda feels like my M9. But it feels flimsy, and I did the semi permenant install, but it still doesn't feel very strong or robust. I guess the point of my post is, is Glock ever going to release their "beavertail" back strap for the Gen 4's? Or am I going to have do a build on a timberwolf frame to get a more permenant beavetail? I want to get another G17, as my beater gun, but I want it to be comfortable to shoot. |
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Looking at the options...
Robar grip reduction, and beavertail fabrication= about $400. I might as well buy an HK for that much $$$. I looked at the Timberwolf frame, but It's $200. and I guess complete barrel and slides on Gunbroker are going for $350 to $400. I can get police trade in G22's for $370  .
I could just go grip force adapter again, but what is a good adhesive that would permenantly bond it to the frame? JB Weld, or Epoxy? Of course I would'nt want the trigger housing pin to be in there permenantly. I just feel that the RTV method isn't adaquate for rough use. Yay, post 223 baby!!!! |