Posted: 1/10/2012 2:17:35 AM EDT
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About a month ago, I purchased a used Gen 3 Glock 23 from someone I know. I hadn't had a chance to shoot it, but loaded it for the first time tonight. After loading the weapon, I noticed that the extractor appeared to be sticking out much further than on any of my other glocks. I unloaded the gun and racked the slide a few times trying to get the extractor to lie flush with the slide, but no luck. I then decided to take apart the slide to see if it was sticking on anything. When I started puling the trigger, there was a click (not the trigger striker) and then the extractor went back to its normal position. I tried this several more times and had it happened 4 out of the 5 times I tried it. I called the guy I bought the gun from and found that when he first purchased the gun, he was shooting some reloaded ammunition (unknown if factory reloads) and that he had the extractor pins "blow out of the gun". He said he took the gun to his dad, who replaced the pins. He said he had fired several hundred rounds since that incident and the gun fired just fine.
I plan on taking the gun to a local gun shop to see what they think, but I thought I'd ask the collective here first. I'm wondering if the issue with the ammunition could have caused permanent issues, or when his dad installed the extractor he didn't do it correctly, or there is just a problem with the new extractor that he installed. He offered to buy the gun back, so I' dont know if it would be worth it to get the gun fixed or sell it back to him and pay a $70 difference to just buy a new gun to make sure there are no additional problems. Attached is a photo of how the extractor sticks out. 
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extractor pins "blow out of the gun"
I don't know what that means. I've never heard of extractor pins....I've taken the extractors out of my Glocks many times and there weren't any pins. I wouldn't mess with this for one minute. Return the gun and either find a used gun in great condition or just purchase new. |
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Something definitely isn't right. Could you take a picture of the extractor depressor bearing / spring, spring loaded bearing, extractor and a view from above of your slide? The extractor depressor plunger should not have a raised portion in the middle and the spring loaded bearing should be white. Regarding the extractor, it's hard to tell from the photo whether your ejection port is the 90 degree or 15 degree port and if the correct extractor is installed. |
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Looking at the first set of pictures, it's hard to tell, but the spring loaded bearing, which should be white in a 40, may be against the extractor. The metal portion of the extractor depressor should be against the extractor, not the plastic spring loaded bearing....then again it could just be the way the light is hitting the extractor depressor. OP, my suggestion is, as you stated, go to youtube and watch a clip on how to disassemble a slide. It's a lot easier to watch than it is to describe.  Once you do that, let us know or show us what parts are in there and how they were in there. This should be a simple fix. |
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Well, it looks like you have the correct parts. Although, it is hard to tell if it's the correct extractor while inserting the extractor into the slide. I'd reassemble it correctly. Perhaps the previous owner did it incorrectly? I'm betting that whoever installed the extractor didn't press the firing pin safety down and properly engage the extractor. I'd also make sure that the firing pin safety spring is correctly installed. Make sure that the metal end of the plunger-spring assembly goes in first and engages the extractor. |
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Where do I start?
1. The spring loaded bearing(the short white plastic piece attached to the end of the spring and rod that push against the extractor) is the wrong one. You have the spring loaded bearing for Loaded Chamber Indicator(LCI) extractors and the extractor in your gun is a non-LCI extractor. That's probably why the extractor keeps coming out, it doesn't have enough tension on it because the non-LCI spring loaded bearing puts more tension on the extractor than the LCI version. That gun needs the .40 non-LCI spring loaded bearing. The extractor depressor plunger also looks damaged and should be replaced. 2. The firing pin lug looks rusted beyond belief. Someone probably polished it in an attempt to do a "25 cent trigger job" and in doing so removed all of the protective nickel plating. Then they never oiled it, so it rusted out like nobody's business. The picture may be deceiving, but that's what it looks like to me. If it is rusted as badly as it looks, it needs to be replaced. 3. The gun has previously had what's known as a "KB" or "kaboom". It can be caused by many things, but basically either severe overpressure is experienced from a double-charged round or a bullet stuck in the barrel with another round fired behind it, or the case wall near the case head blew out for whatever reason. This can damage the extractor, firing pin safety, extractor depressor plunger, the breech face of the slide, the frame itself and numerous parts in the frame. I wouldn't trust that gun no matter how many parts have been replaced(with the correct ones). In summary, take the guy up on his offer and return the gun to get your money back. You'd likely have to replace every single part in the slide which would be at least $75, and even then I wouldn't trust it. Judging by how poorly maintained the slide was, you'd have to consider as well any possible needed replacement of parts in the frame. There may even be cracks in the frame caused by that KB that you simply can't see at the moment. They could spread to the point that the frame is worthless, and Glock would likely charge you ~$150 for a replacement frame. Edit: Here are some detail strip resources if you need them, make sure when you put the slide back together that the metal rod of the extractor depressor plunger should seat against the rear of the extractor, not the other end with the plastic spring loaded bearing. Here are some videos showing detail strip: HD Full Detail Strip: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oV0wDDFV0NY Detail strip 1: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fExL6MIq4Fc Detail strip 2: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YgnrRDtfq68 Reassembly 1: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=trpniw70xA4 Reassembly 2: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gBh1zpTbiKs On the following page are some Glock Armorer's Manuals, just scroll down to the "G" section. I learned from the Update Manual and 2009 Manual. The 2009 Manual has a few pages missing, but that info can be found in the Update Manual as well. (the author of that site specifically requested not to hotlink to his page) http://stevespages.com/page7b.htm |
| Voyager had some valid points. If I were you I would send it in to Glock and have them check it completely. The white bearing as he stated is for the 40 LCI extractor and as he stated the extractor with your gun is for a non LCI. The one thing I see that he appears to have missed is that You have the 15 degree cut on your slide, and whoever changed the parts put a 90 degree extractor in the gun. This setup will never work. Tell the guy He pays the shipping to Glock, and that if they say that the slide, barrel, or frame is damaged and has to be replaced, that You get your money back. It may just be cheaper and quicker to get your money back now. Glock will completely gut your gun and replace any and every part that needs to be changed for free except the three I listed above. They will not tell you one of the big three needs to be replaced unless it is unsafe, and does not meet factory specs. |
| Voyager, I agree the 90 degree will work, but not with an LCI spring loaded bearing. Fragalistic, it is obvious that your an expert and can make a complete evaluation of this gun and what else might be wrong with it by observing these partial gun pics. I don't believe the original poster is that far along in his knowledge base. I told him to get the seller to pay to send it in, so that the guys that get payed to physically inspect and repair these guns can do so or at least let him know the extent of the damage. You are right it is not brain surgery, but it should also not be half assed, and as a minimum it should be looked at by a certified Glock armorer. Not trying to start any trouble with anyone, but I see to many half cocked conversations here and on Glock talk that people listen to and then do half assed repairs and blame glock or sig or whoever instead of themselves for listening to just anyone on here and doing what they say...... |
| It could be something as simple as a spring that is worn to the wrong size extractor for the slide. Get it to an armorer or ship it to Glock and they will get it working for you. The frame and slide don't look out of spec from the pics you took but it hard to tell from photos. |
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Voyager, I agree the 90 degree will work, but not with an LCI spring loaded bearing. Fragalistic, it is obvious that your an expert and can make a complete evaluation of this gun and what else might be wrong with it by observing these partial gun pics. I don't believe the original poster is that far along in his knowledge base. I told him to get the seller to pay to send it in, so that the guys that get payed to physically inspect and repair these guns can do so or at least let him know the extent of the damage. You are right it is not brain surgery, but it should also not be half assed, and as a minimum it should be looked at by a certified Glock armorer. Not trying to start any trouble with anyone, but I see to many half cocked conversations here and on Glock talk that people listen to and then do half assed repairs and blame glock or sig or whoever instead of themselves for listening to just anyone on here and doing what they say...... Yeah, if the seller will pay to send the pistol back to Glock, then that'd be my recommendation also. Fact is, even a newbie who can read and understand simple English can quickly learn to replace every part on a Glock, with no special tools. They really are simple machines. It sure isn't rocket science, that's for sure. |