Posted: 1/9/2012 1:02:29 PM EDT
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I am looking at purchasing one in the near future. I have not shot any stout 10mm rounds so I am curious about the recoil.
Am I in for the shock of my life when I eventually get these? I don't expect it will be like instant carpal tunnel it anything, but was just wondering. Thanks for any input! |
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Quoted:
Sweet thanks guys, I am definitely going to grab it up then. I will look into springs once I get it. I was just concerned about ending up in a youtube video with the pistol going one way and me another from the recoil  It's not a 44Magnum. If you can handle a 45+P, then you can handle a 10MM. Even a stout 10MM isn't as bad as a magnum revolver for recoil. The stuff you buy in a box for the 10mm is like a 45+P to me. |
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To me it's at worst like shooting 158 gr .357 magnum from a 4-inch barrel revolver. Which while not painful makes it tough to shoot quickly and accurately.
But that is just the heavy 10mm loads. The mild / moderate 10mm loads kick like a .40 Glock or maybe less IMO. The really mild (.40 level) 10mm loads fall between 9x19 and .40 in recoil. 10mm is so awesome because you can buy 180 gr loads @850 fps or 200 gr loads @1250 fps. Or 135 gr loads @1600 fps if ya want. Mind you there are all kinda pricey! You can buy a drop in barrel ($150) and shoot .40 from it (zero other changes, use 10mm mags!) if you want more range time. A few more rounds though my Glock 20 (to get it over 500), and I'll be carrying it more often, not just in the woods. I normally carry a Glock 19. Having had both versions I recommend the SF version. It didn't seem like much difference in the store but when I got to firing and handling it really helped out. The gun handles like a G22. I had a G29 thinking it would handle like a G19 but it doesn't. Even with the peirce grip extensions it handles like a G27 and that sucks IMO. |
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Yes, you are in for a surprise ........................... however, it's not the one you're thinking you'll get because the G20's recoil is surprisingly mild! Yes, I said mild and that's when shooting even the stoutest 10mm. I'm definitely not a recoil junkie and neither is my 110lb, 5'0" wife who's also shot my G20L. She likes shooting it with 1,400fps loads better than shooting my stock G23 with 165grn Speer Gold Dot's 1,150fps SD loads (the only commercial ammo I own). Why, because the polymer frame flexes when the gun fires and that, coupled with the wide backstrap, helps to both distribute recoil as well as spread out the recoil impulse. Both couple to significantly reduce the felt recoil over that felt in a steel framed pistol. Truth be told, when I first set up my G20L pictured at left and I shot some of my hot (high 1,400fps, 165grn loads), I was a bit disappointed that the recoil was so mild. True, my G20L has a 1.5" longer slide and barrel as well as an added 4.75 oz of weight which help tame the muzzle flip, but I was expecting a fire breathing monster and I got a pistol that recoils only a tiny bit more than my G21 which is almost universally acknowledged as the softest shooting 45acp on the planet. As I just posted in another thread here, I've got a damaged rt wrist from a car accident 50 years ago and I've shot 200rds of my 'nuclear' 10mm loads (165grn bullet at 1,579fps) from my G20L in one session many times without any wrist, hand, or arm pain. Compare that to a 6" S&W 686 where after 20rds of hot 357mag my wrist is tired or a 6" 44mag where after 6rds my wrist is done. Further, I purchased a Springfield Mil-Spec last March and that steel framed 45acp transmits about the same recoil impulse to my hand as does my hot 10mm in my G20L. Compared to the 40s&w, the 10mm has a stronger push, not a snappier recoil. My neighbor bought a stock G20 after shooting my custom G20L and while his recoils more because of the things I mentioned above, he too was surprised at how little the increase in recoil was over a stock G22 shooting 1,000fps ammo. |
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I'd get a captured SS guide rod and 20# ISMI flat wound recoil spring, a couple more mags, some good sights, perform my inexpensive trigger job I describe below and then shoot the heck out of it before you do anything further. $20 Trigger Job I've found that all you need is a 3.5# connector and a Competition Trigger Spring for a lighter and crisper trigger. Much pre-travel and all of the over travel will be eliminated and you'll love your new trigger. Best of all is that it’s both cheap (about $20) and so easy you can do it yourself in just a couple of minutes. 3.5# Connector: I've tried Glock, Scherer, and Lone Wolf 3.5# connectors in my Glocks and Lone Wolf's is the best hands down because it gives you the best 'break' with less take up and over travel. The other two connectors left a mushy feel in the trigger. You can get it from Glockparts.com for $15 HERE. Comp Trigger Spring: The Comp Trigger Spring is a higher weight spring (6lbs vs 5lbs) and because the spring works with you pulling the trigger, not against you, the higher spring weight gives you a lighter and crisper pull. Glockparts.com has them for $5 HERE. While you’re at it, give your Glock a 25¢ trigger job by following the instructions HERE. Its really quite simple to do and you’ll be pleased with the results. For instructions on replacing your connector and trigger spring, as well as disassembling your Glock, check out Glockparts Disassembly Page. Just click "Disassembly" on the left of his home page. They give instructions with photos to help you do it. Glocks are simple to work on so give it a try. |
| I finally got my new 20sf and love the hell out of it! Way fun to shoot. I am listening to COSteves advice and am getting the new disconnect and springs and such. I do have 1otheran question though, with the 20# flat wound recoil spring, what does that affect? Lighter recoil or something like that? I looked online and they offer them in weights from 11-24 pounds. I was just curious and thanks again for all the help and info! |
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Quoted:
I'd get a captured SS guide rod and 20# ISMI flat wound recoil spring, a couple more mags, some good sights, perform my inexpensive trigger job I describe below and then shoot the heck out of it before you do anything further. $20 Trigger Job I've found that all you need is a 3.5# connector and aCompetition Trigger Spring for a lighter and crisper trigger. Much pre-traveland all of the over travel will be eliminated and you'll love your new trigger.Best of all is that it’s both cheap (about $20) and so easy you can do ityourself in just a couple of minutes.
3.5# Connector: I've tried Glock, Scherer, and Lone Wolf3.5# connectors in my Glocks and Lone Wolf's is the best hands down because itgives you the best 'break' with less take up and over travel. The other twoconnectors left a mushy feel in the trigger. You can get it from Glockparts.comfor $15 HERE.
Comp Trigger Spring: The Comp Trigger Spring is a higherweight spring (6lbs vs 5lbs) and because the spring works with youpulling the trigger, not against you, the higher spring weight gives you alighter and crisper pull. Glockparts.com has them for $5 HERE.
While you’re at it, give your Glock a 25¢ trigger job byfollowing the instructions HERE. Its really quite simple to do and you’ll be pleasedwith the results.
For instructions on replacing your connector and triggerspring, as well as disassembling your Glock, check out Glockparts DisassemblyPage. Just click "Disassembly" on the left of his home page. Theygive instructions with photos to help you do it. Glocks are simple to work onso give it a try.
Thanks. Have a couple of glocks, and have not done a thing to them. Looks like it's time to open up the 20. TXL |
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Quoted: COSteve, thanks for an excellent review. After all the liking for the 20sfkids I decided that's the one I want to get. Hopefully its still in stock . I am glad to hear the recoil won't kick my butt. Now I have to learn how to reload ammo  10mm is a perfect place to start reloading. The savings and flexibility are best realized in this caliber. You can load up to some mild pain with Blue Dot and heavy bullets. Sound and flash are legandary. |