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Posted: 10/21/2006 2:30:53 AM EDT
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Has any one who has the Robinson set screw break on their Vepr had a problem with it coming off or loose? How did you install it and did you use any adhesive or did you just make for dimples and put it on? Thanks for any information. This has probably been asked a million times and I apreciate the long suffering.  I am going to refit my Vepr K .223 since I do not like the scout mount I got for it so I am installing it on my WASR and gettong a Kobra, ACE folder, HK grip and have not decided on what I want to do with the fore arm yet. I may trim it down. Any way I asked about the flash hider or break because if they work I might install one but if not I am leaving it off.
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I think biggerstick tried to get flash hidr off and it wouldnt come off, But that was factory installed...I think that red loctite on the actual barrell, and on the setscrews would be enough to hold it in place. I work for a hydraulic cyclinder company, where all the pistons are loctited on. I used to work in repair and believe me....That stuff does not come off. I have had to heat pistons up to red hot and let all the loctite burn off to get them apart. make sure you clean all contact areas, with acetone if you have it. it you want to go 1 step further you could always dumple where the setscrews are going to be.... The saiga foregrip is lighter, more comfortable and can be made to fit a vepr with a dremel.... I think bullet, from GA put his own robinson hider on his vepr. he also has the ace sidefolder and seems to like it....I am still mixed on my review.... |
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Funny this topic just came up. I just took brake off of my 5.45 Vepr this morning to see what size the barrel underneath is. I'm considering threading the barrel and putting a flash hider on it. Maybe a Phantom. The three set screws have loctite on them and after loosening them, I was able to twist the brake loose. I used a screwdriver wrapped in masking tape stuck through the brake slots to get a little leverage. Robinson drills countersunk holes in the barrel for the set screws to run down into so the brake will have a sturdier fit. I don't think you would have to worry about a Robinson brake coming off if you install it the way they do it.. Scott |
| Thanks guys. So some dimples and red loctite. I forgot they sell the flash hider now. The Saiga forarm is an option since I have a spare and I have also thought about truing to get the Galil forearm to work that is made for the Saiga but I actualy like the long Saiga guard. I like the Vepr forearm to for more supported shooting and may even keep it on. The goal though is to make is as prtable as possible. As a rifle I like it just the way it is. |
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You shouldn't have to heat a part red hot to get "red Loctite" to release. 250-300 degrees should be plenty. There are many Loctite products now, calling it red, green or blue doesn't focus well anymore. By "red" you probably mean 262, which is a permanent threadlocker. I used some 620 a while back to secure a muzzle brake on my PTR. It's a high strength/high heat retaining compound for cylindrical parts. There's also 638, which is very high strength, but doesn't stand up to heat as well. Both are dark green. |
Well, I know I heated them up and tried and they didnt come off...and your talking about a chunk of steel thats sometimes 6 inches in diameter, and 2 inches thick...threaded on a rod that is up to 2 inches this with 12 tpi, and I believe it is loctite 271 permanent loctite....maybe I SHOULDNT HAVE HAD TO heat it to red hot. But that is what I had to do to get them off.....I knwo because I have done it several times....You actually have to cook the loctite out of the threads....But you would probably know better than me.....I hate it when people disagree with something that I say that I have personally had to do Yeah genghis I would think dimples and loctite would be enough...It does take a litle work with the old dremel to get the saiga handguard to fit, atleast it did for me. I had to drill a new hole to attatch to the gas block, Enlarge the area that goes around the gas block, and trim a little off of the back where it goes into the reciever.... |
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Been there pard, done that. No disrespect intended, I just don't want to see anyone heat their barrel red hot and ruin it. Loctite's 271 data sheet says to heat an assembly to ~250 degrees C, which is... 482 degrees F, if I did my math right. I once had to heat a large cast iron housing which held a bronze bushing about 6" diameter and 10" long, which had been glued in with Loctite 638. We got that puppy quite hot, and still had to press it out with a hydraulic press. What was left of the Loctite looked like ash. When you try to disassemble something put together with permanent threadlocker without heat, it breaks up rather like very tough glass shards, which will chew up the threads, and make turning harder and harder. When you heat the parts, the loctite decomposes to a fine powder which doesn't harm the threads during disassembly. Even then, you should separate the parts while they're still hot. |
| Its cool man, It just seems that NO matter what you say on here someone disagrees with you. But NO I WAS not suggesting that anyone heat thier barrell....But referring to how hard it is to get that shit off.....And I concur on the shards of glass and everything you have said about removing loctite. it is some serious stuff. I have heard that Arsenal uses loctite on their trigger groups to keep them from rotating and wallowing out the holes...But I havent seen it first hand so I dont know.....I will however say that if you loctite the barrell then slide the muzzle attatchemnt on, It wouldnt come off inless you got it REAL hot....Add setscrews and your in there like swimwear.... |
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