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Posted: 12/12/2004 8:58:35 AM EDT
I just finished threading my SAR-1 barrel and installing a slant brake. I used the Dynasystems (Precise Innovations) kit. It went pretty smoothly although it was hard to tell which side of the die was the chamfered side so It was hard to get started. Plus I had the die set to cut the deeper threads from the get go. The die worked backwards from what I thought as far as the depth adjustment but it turned out ok it was just alittle hard to turn the thing. The brake went on easily but I couldnt figure out how to tighten it without using pliers or vise grips. Hence a couple of small marks from the jaws on the brake. I tried to be careful and put a rag around it but it still got marked. Oh well, its just a SAR-1 range beater. Now a question for the AK gurus around here. What is the proper indexing or "position" for the brake? I want it to be right. Here are some pics of before and after. 
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as to indexing the brake, there is a hole in the front sight base(fsb), you need to drive out the front retaining pin on the base and put the retaining plunger and spring in then reinstall the retaining pin. the plunger can be bought from kvar or global trades . I'm sure there are more sources for this part as well. One word of caution: The spring may be too long the plunger should be almost flush with the FSB when fully depressed. also if you have had the FSB straightened (to remove cant) then you may need to file the flat surface of the plunger as well. Linx310's tutorial(top of main romanian page) helped me greatly with this install. |
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You shouldn't need pliers to install your brake. I would adjust the die to make a deeper cut in the threads. Do a little at a time until the brake threads on with just your fingers. When I threaded my barrel, I adjusted the die a couple of times to get the depth of the threads correct. You can keep going back over them until you get it right. Don't forget to use some type of oil when your using the die. PS. If your anywhere near Harrisburg maybe I can help you out. |
| Thanks guys for the info. I dont have the spring and plunger I'll have to get them. Zman I'm in the Pittsburgh area but thanks for the offer. The brake threads on real easy with my fingers its just the final torqueing down that I had to break out the vice grips. |
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Take a look at both sides of your die. Do they look exactly the same where the threads start. I can see in the first pic that the tapered side of the die is facing up. Does the other side look the same? Most dies have a chamfered or tapered leade into the threads on one side. This side should face the barrel when your starting to thread. The other side may or may not have this tapered leade. If it doesn't have this taper, flip your die over and run this flat side down your threads until it hits your front sight base. This will cut threads down a little closer to your FSB. The die I rented to do my SAR was made in Poland and both sides of it were tapered. This wasn't an issue for me because I removed my FSB to make sure I threaded down far enough. |
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Both sides of the die looked exactly the same to me they both seemed to have a slight taper to them. Mine was also made in Poland. I ran the die up and down a few times using both sides just to make sure I got the threads down as far as possible. It seems to be threaded down far enough. As far as the plunger and spring, what are the kvar part numbers for the SAR-1? The way they list their parts is confusing to me(a guy who worked in the auto parts business for 11 painful years). I dont want to end up with AK-74 parts. I think I need AK073. Or are there more numbers I need????Help 
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Well it seems you do indeed have a double tapered die. I made my own pin for my gun but here is a thread to point you in the right direction. You'll need a spring too, but any spring that has enough tension to push the pin will work, like one from a Bic lighter, etc. It's the one Campy recommends. www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=4&f=64&t=64662 Good luck.... 
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