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5/7/2004 6:12:06 PM EDT
I picjed up an ak74 muzzle brake today to put on my SAR-1. It the threaded type so ill have to grind it out. The guy who sold it to me said he had afixed one to his AK and had used some sort of special glue or epoxy to hold it on. He said it worked better than welding. Of course I forgot the name of this cool stuff, so does anyone out there know?

Thanks, Keith Zimmermann
5/8/2004 5:44:08 AM EDT
[#1]
If I were you I'd silver solder it on. When that epoxy heats up that break may go down range with a bullet...
5/8/2004 9:18:39 AM EDT
[#2]
wouldn't it be less trouble to just thread the bbl and solder/epoxy it on that way?
5/8/2004 10:55:26 PM EDT
[#3]
everybody keeps mentioning this silver soldering, and I am at a loss for how to do it. I looked it up on the internet (net thing that internet) and I found out 2 things. First its also caled hard soldering or brazing (or so some sites sugested). The second is that I need an acletine torch to reach the nesacary tempratures to use the solder. I dont have acess to thease kinds of tools, is there another way?
5/9/2004 6:32:40 AM EDT
[#4]
it's a no-brainer
You need silver solder paste and a blow torch. You simply put put a layer of the silver/flux paste into whatever needs to be soldered (the threads in this case), and heat it up to 700 degrees with a, acetalyne torch. It's just like soldering copper pipe with 50/50 and propane.
5/9/2004 9:27:09 AM EDT
[#5]
threading it would be easier.......then you can use the RED Loctite and it won't come off.....the red loctite is what mechanics use on parts that aren't coming off again.....so that may be easier for you....die rental is like 16 + shipping aand loctite is like $5-10.
5/9/2004 1:27:01 PM EDT
[#6]

Quoted:
threading it would be easier.......then you can use the RED Loctite and it won't come off.....the red loctite is what mechanics use on parts that aren't coming off again.....so that may be easier for you....die rental is like 16 + shipping aand loctite is like $5-10.


Red loctite should be perfectly fine, as it needs to be heated to just a little under what silver solder needs to come off; and that's loctite #271, there's one level higher Red which IIRC isn't considered 'semi-permenant'.
5/9/2004 1:59:54 PM EDT
[#7]
Im thinking of getting the adapter from dynasystems and soldering that to the front sight support, makeing basicly a threaded front sight base. The website on romainian AKs has a tutorial on how to make a threaded front sight support, but I think the adapter would be cheaper and easier. This way i can attach whatever brake I want, and change brakes if I want. An in the event I need to remove the supressor and threads because of some new law, I can.

Or i could rent the kit and be done with it with no soldering at all. Proably the cheapest way to go. Ill think about that.

I'm going to wait untill the ban sunsets to do this, so hopefully ill be able to use the pin system that was originaly used to hold the brake in place, plus some lock tite.
5/9/2004 3:03:21 PM EDT
[#8]

Quoted:
I'm going to wait untill the ban sunsets to do this, so hopefully ill be able to use the pin system that was originaly used to hold the brake in place, plus some lock tite.



In this case, I'd just get a 24mm FSB or a 14x1LH threader and appropriate attatchments and let them sit.
5/9/2004 5:41:56 PM EDT
[#9]
Well yeah..That's the easiest way for sure.
5/9/2004 11:55:06 PM EDT
[#10]
Ive decided to rent the kit, but im gonna wait a bit, seeing as how im about to move and the ban doesnt end for a cupple of months anyway.
5/22/2004 2:05:20 PM EDT
[#11]
Well, if you change your mind and elect to solder, here's how hot it needs to get:

That's 1200 degree solder on a theaded FAL brake.  THAT's coming off in Sept. You'll need Mapp gas to get it hot enough.
5/22/2004 3:28:07 PM EDT
[#12]
I have a question: How good are these "snap-on" brakes I've been seeing?

They sorta clamp onto the front sight apt somehow. Seems to me it wouldn't be very stable...
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