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Posted: 12/20/2003 10:09:32 AM EDT
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I hope you don't mind, but I'm borrowing from a thread you posted on elsewhere concerning trigger work on the SAR-1(trigger slap)... From the AK files: "It(SAR-1 trigger slap) does not seem to be as bad as it was and it varies from shot to shot. I'm wondering if I took off enough material from the bottom of the disconnector, near the spring hole." You answered: "remove some more material from the disconnector and radius a blend into the vertical surface. you might want to get a couple of spare disconnector springs and experiment with shortening the spring a quater coil to half a coil." Can you please elaborate a little??? In specific, are you referring to removing some more material from the bottom of the disconnector where the spring fits into??? Also, could you please describe in more detail how to "radius a blend into the vertical surface."??? It would be a great help... My trigger pull is pretty good on my SAR-1, but I still have a little trigger slap that's annoying... I'm sure the Redstar trigger group would cure it, but I'm currently saving for another rifle, and don't want to put any more money into my SAR-1 if I can avoid it... Thanks for any help you can offer... - georgestrings |
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Hey George, I'm not Campy, but I slept at a Holiday Inn last night.  Check out this link. It even has pictures. And a lot of other useful stuff. www.gunsnet.net/Linx310/slapfix.htm |
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Still got a little slap? Look at the top of the trigger itself. You are looking for shiny spots, signs of peening by the disconnector. After doing the grinding deal on my disconnector I still had a little slap. I did some stoning on the top of the trigger where the disconnector was still striking it. Easier to comprehend if you remove the trigger and disconnector and reinsert the pivot pin and push down on the disconnector to se where it MAY be hitting the trigger. Tread lightly. |
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msh - Thanks for the advice - I'll look into it... Good advice to "tread lightly" - after all, it CAN be a little tough to put metal "back on", hahaha!!! I've reduced my trigger slap by following the instructions on the link, but haven't yet cured it all - the pull itself is pretty good(a little long, but smooth, with a fairly clean break) - if I can cure the last bit of trigger slap, I'd be a happy camper... Hopefully, Campy will pipe up soon with advice about this radius he was referring to - I have a feeling that's a step in the right direction, and don't want to butcher any parts if I can avoid it... Fruit - sorry if I seemed a little short with you, I didn't mean to be that way... - georgestrings |
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Can you please elaborate a little??? In specific, are you referring to removing some more material from the bottom of the disconnector where the spring fits into??? george. assemble your disconnector and trigger (without the spring) in your rifle. now, push back hard on the disconnector. is it hitting the trigger and moving the trigger shoe forward? if so, you need to remove a little more material from the disconnector. often, it is not enough to just lose the tail and radius the corner off...the bottom/rear of the disconnector must be further whittled away. this may even mean removing stock at the bottom of the spring hole. Also, could you please describe in more detail how to "radius a blend into the vertical surface."??? sure. this means that radius, or curved corner' should be ground at the bottom/rear of the disconnector. after you lop off the tail, you are left with a sharp corner. grinding a radius there adds more clearance to the trigger. lastly...and i'm hesitant to even metion this to some people...the disconnector spring may need shortened. during compression (i.e. the hammer driving the discon rearward during cocking) the spring may become 'springbound' (no more room to compress as the coils touch each other) and this will drive your trigger no matter how much clearance exists between the discon and trigger. fully compressed, the spring acts like a solid link between the two parts. so, go slowly and very carefully when shorten the disconnector sp[ring as safety and function WILL be affected if you remove too much of the spring. |
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Thanks for going into further detail for me,Bob - I appreciate it... I suspect the corner created by lopping of "the tail" is the main culprit... I already did shorten the spring slightly, to prevent coil bind - and am careful to test it out with only 2 rounds loaded, and in a safe place - incase of doubling(or worse)... You're absolutely right to give words of caution regarding fooling with the disconnector spring - keeping the rifle in safe working order has to be the #1 priority in this case... I still may invest in a Redstar trigger group, but not right now - besides, the Century parts that came with it break pretty clean, so if I can get rid of the last of this trigger slap, I'll be all set... Thanks again, and I'll let you know how I make out... - georgestrings |
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Thanks, Bob - I appreciate the help.. I'm thinking that rounding off that corner will most likely take care of it... I also noticed that in the pic on the link, that the "real" disconnector is slightly rounded out(dished out) in the area between the spring hole and the axis pin hole - I'm going to take a closer look at mine today, and try to duplicate the "real deal" a little better... As for the polishing, I did that the 1st time through this - that's one of the reasons why I'm trying to work with this group instead of buying the Red Star - even though I know the Red Star group is a fine set, I'm getting a nice pull with the Century junk the SAR came with - it's pretty smooth, and has a nice break - and that's coming from a model 700, and 1911 owner(couple each) and fan - so I know a good trigger when I squeeze one - and this one isn't bad at all...If I can make this work, that's nearly $100 more towards my FAL fund(by not buying the Red Star - although I'll probably buy one some day, anyways - hahaha)... I shall endeavor to persevere - It sure is nice to have a fine resource like this place available... - georgestrings |
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