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Posted: 5/1/2005 4:14:29 AM EDT
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hey all, I have a question that probably sounds stupid but i'd still like to know if anyone has had any similiar experiences. ok, I have a vepr II in .223 that I have only shot brass cased xm193 through. the finish is starting to come off the bolt and a few other places. under most of the paint that has come off is a normal silverish color but on some of the places it is a bit yellowish. I have found some brass slivers from the ammo I have been using and I'm thinking that the yellowing is caused by that and the cleaning solivent I use ( Eezox ). I do leave a light coat of oil on the rifle when i'm not using it. I also have a vepr k in 7.62x39 that i've only shot wolf through and thought the finish is starting to come off in the same spots it doesn't have the yellow tint to it. just looking for some input. thanks |
| the yellow tint is probably brass being rubbed onto your bolt, its normal. you really should try some wolf .223 for your vepr, it will give you a lot more bang for the buck, and with the polymer coating you dont have to worry about laquer building up in the chamber. |
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I shoot only xm193 as well in my AR ( sure will be glad when gas and XM go back down) As for shooting it exclusively in a Vepr I would shoot Barnaul or Wolf it will eat em up no problem.. I've found the Wolf to be a little under powered but for plinking it dosent matter much imo.. As for the wear on the bolt I'm like the RedHorseman I would'nt worry about it... Oh and welcome.. 
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The reason you wouldn't want to put 5.56x45 ammo into a TRUE .223 SAAMI chambererd rifle is due to the pressure of the 5.56 round. If a rifle has a .223 spec chamber, and 5.56 is used in it, it could kaboom - or so I've read. Use of .223 in a 5.56 chamber has no ill-effects. Also, Wolf .223 stuff has gotten a bad reputation with the AR crowd, due to the way the AR functions. Wolf .223 used to be lacquer-coated, and that stuff cooked off and blew all over the inside of the AR - something that doesn't happen on an AK (or doesn't happen nearly as badly). As finicky as some AR's are, this caused eventually malfunctions, requiring, you guessed it, cleaning. It didn't effect all AR's, and as far as I know, it hasn't affected an AK - I'm put several thousand rounds of the old lacquer-coated stuff through my AK's with no issue. ch139 can chime in, if he's around, but he's got a Bushmaster A2 that he's dumped nearly 5000rds through without cleaning it, and a LOT of those have been lacquer-coated Wolf. In the last year or so, Wolf changed from the lacquer-coat cases to a polymer-coat. This seems to have alleviated a LOT, if not all, of the issues with Wolf ammo. There seem to be a lot more people running the new polymer-coat stuff in their AR without issue. Of course, some people are anal retentive about their AR (since AR's are kind of prissy, anyhow), and will only put a nice mil-spec brass-cased round like XM193, Q3131, XM855, etc. into their rifle. Yes, I'm one of those people, when it comes to my AR. I don't have a .223/5.56 AK (thankfully  ), but I wouldn't hesitate to put Wolf .223 through it, old or new. It's an AK, it can take it, and still dish out punishment to whatever you're aiming at.Now, if you're a reloader, you might decide to still use a brass-cased boxer-primed round, so you can gather cases and reload. If you have no inclination to start reloading, you're wasting money by shooting XM193 or other mil-spec brass stuff through an AK, when Wolf costs, on average, $80/case less. If current ammo prices fall back a bit to what they were a few months ago, 1000rd cases of Wolf were selling for half of what 1000rd cases of XM193 were - give or take $5-$10. Currently, www.outdoormarksman.com has Wolf 55gr or 62gr 1000rd cases for $115.95. Their price for 1000rds of XM855 is $184.95. You save $70/case if you buy Wolf. Another thing to note is, I'm quite sure the boys at Robinson are in a financial situation that they don't have to worry about $70/case of ammo. 
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