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| I'm not sure which is best, but for powder-coating www.ak-103.com, and for park-jobs any number of places but notably www.globaltrades.com |
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i prefer parkerizing. it's durable and it's fairly good at rust prevention. i also rceommend that once bead blasted and parked that some kind of baked on paint type overcoat is applied. not only is it authentic, it adds another layer of protection to the metal. if you look around, i'm sure there is a local smith/gunshop that can recommed a refinisher that is close and does good work. |
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Ahab, there is a guy here in town that can do parkerizing. Chesterfield Armament has been doing it for a long, long time and Dick Chandler can get you set up. See what other people are pricing and then see what Chandler (Chesterfield Armament) can do for you. I'd also vote for phosphating (parkerizing). Slap an East German surplus stock set on that thing and you'd have a spittin' image of one of the most widely distributed AK's in the world. Give me a call up at the shop. I'm off on Saturday and Monday, so if I don't hear from you I'll see you for Monday night IDPA at Dominion. |
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OK..so being my first post, and that I am in the same position(as far as refinishing is concerned) as you are ..... here are my two bits. I have an SAR-1 and, having put at the minimum,3000 rounds though it. i think that i have come to 2 conclusions. 1. AK's are built to last and 2. AK's are really ONLY midrange weapons. Now, unless you have bags o' money i would assume you would see the utility and pragmatism of the aforementioned statements. I DO NOT own a VEPR! I own a very nice AK, and I have as well considered re-bluing or parkerizing , BUT a can of 1200 degree paint, an oven at 275 degrees for around 30 mins, will do the exact same thing you are considering getting into, for far less. I think there are two camps on AKs. The hard line high dollar camp, and the realistic active shooter camp. The latter tends to have more fun and less complaints. My SAR has given me tons of fun, and I am now in the process of fabricating a Galil style buttstock, for about $2 in steel! This is only due to my skills in metal. Regardless, I would put my vote in on the cheaper remedy for such a problem, or concern. |
| Check out Brownell's Baking Lacquer. It comes in gloss black, matte black, OD, tan, and two shades of gray Parkerizing. The stuff is tough as nails, comes in spray cans and cures in 30 min. at 300F. It is immune to any bore solvent out there, and requires only a clean surface. I've actually had it stick to chrome plating, but it's not durable in that kind of application. Brownell's recommends bead-blasting as a surface prep, but I've never done that and it has worked great. The matte black is really 'flat', so you could probably get the AK satin look by mixing it with some gloss black. |
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