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Posted: 12/26/2011 7:37:21 AM EDT
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Im am finally going to zero my sgl31 today, just wondering where i should set the zero at and how to do it, thanks
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Google is your friend. Lots of YouTube and other site info for this also. I've copied these from others so I take no credit for them.
Establish Zero The following procedure will establish a zero at 25 meters, and your AK-47 will be set with a 1000 meter battle sight zero. This means that all shots will be within a 16" circle at all ranges up to 1000 meters. Establish Mechanical Zero - Slide the spring loaded catcher down until the range scale 1 (100-meter) mark is aligned with the spring loaded catcher. Carefully aim and fire each shot of a 3-shot group at a paper target set up at 25 meters. If your shots are not striking the point-of-aim, then adjust your sights. To raise the next shot group, rotate the front sight post in the down direction (clockwise) To lower the next shot group, rotate the front sight post in the up direction (counter-clockwise) To move the next shot group left, turn the rear sight windage knob counterclockwise, or drift the front sight to the right. To move the next shot group right, turn the rear sight windage knob clockwise, or drift the front sight to the left. Continue to fire 3-shot groups and adjust the sights until you have a tight group at the point of aim. Once this is done, rifle is now combat-zeroed all other ranges on the elevation knob are also zeroed ************************************************************************************** Set your target at 25 M(meters). 27 Yards is the same distance as 25 Meters. Set your rear elevation slide to 100 on your AK. Remember I use a POA/POI hold, so if you use a 6 O'clock hold, this may not work as well. This also assumes you are using surplus/62gr. 5.45 ammo at about 2900 fps. Given the above, at 25M, your round should impact almost exactly 1" low from your point of aim (center of bullseye). Adjust your front sight (leave the rear at 100) to bring your groups centered exactly 1" below your point of aim (center of bullseye at 25M). This will put you in the ballpark, and keep your rifle synched with your elevation slide. Now leave your rear sight at 100, and move your target to 50M (meters). 54 Yards is the same distance as 50 Meters. At 50 M, you will shoot almost exacty POI/POA. Your group should actually be about 1/16" below your point of aim, but I wouldn't quibble over 1/16". Basically at 50m, your group should be dead center of your bullseye. If you can shoot steady enough and hold a tight enough group that you can tell a 1/16" difference at 50M, my hat is off to you, You're a better man than I am Charlie Brown.... Make any adjustments you need to at 50M (front sight only, leave the rear at 100). Now set your target at 100M and confirm your zero/make any fine tune adjustments. Doing the initial zero at 25M, than moving back to 50M, then confirming at 100M will save you some time and frustration. Here is how your POI should shift at 25M with your different elevation settings: POA = Center of Bullseye at 25M POI 100 Setting - 1 inch low (-1") POI 200 Setting - 1/2 inch low (-1/2") POI 300 Setting - 1/2 inch high (+1/2") POI 400 Setting - 1 1/4 inche high (+1 1/4") POI 500 Setting - 2 1/2 inches high (+2 1/2") POI 600 Setting - 4 inches high (+4")oed, so to engage target at say 500 meters, turn the spring loaded catcher to 5. |
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Quoted: Google is your friend. Lots of YouTube and other site info for this also. I've copied these from others so I take no credit for them. Establish Zero The following procedure will establish a zero at 25 meters, and your AK-47 will be set with a 1000 meter battle sight zero. This means that all shots will be within a 16" circle at all ranges up to 1000 meters. Establish Mechanical Zero - Slide the spring loaded catcher down until the range scale 1 (100-meter) mark is aligned with the spring loaded catcher. Carefully aim and fire each shot of a 3-shot group at a paper target set up at 25 meters. If your shots are not striking the point-of-aim, then adjust your sights. To raise the next shot group, rotate the front sight post in the down direction (clockwise) To lower the next shot group, rotate the front sight post in the up direction (counter-clockwise) To move the next shot group left, turn the rear sight windage knob counterclockwise, or drift the front sight to the right. To move the next shot group right, turn the rear sight windage knob clockwise, or drift the front sight to the left. Continue to fire 3-shot groups and adjust the sights until you have a tight group at the point of aim. Once this is done, rifle is now combat-zeroed all other ranges on the elevation knob are also zeroed ************************************************************************************** Set your target at 25 M(meters). 27 Yards is the same distance as 25 Meters. Set your rear elevation slide to 100 on your AK. Remember I use a POA/POI hold, so if you use a 6 O'clock hold, this may not work as well. This also assumes you are using surplus/62gr. 5.45 ammo at about 2900 fps. Given the above, at 25M, your round should impact almost exactly 1" low from your point of aim (center of bullseye). Adjust your front sight (leave the rear at 100) to bring your groups centered exactly 1" below your point of aim (center of bullseye at 25M). This will put you in the ballpark, and keep your rifle synched with your elevation slide. Now leave your rear sight at 100, and move your target to 50M (meters). 54 Yards is the same distance as 50 Meters. At 50 M, you will shoot almost exacty POI/POA. Your group should actually be about 1/16" below your point of aim, but I wouldn't quibble over 1/16". Basically at 50m, your group should be dead center of your bullseye. If you can shoot steady enough and hold a tight enough group that you can tell a 1/16" difference at 50M, my hat is off to you, You're a better man than I am Charlie Brown.... Make any adjustments you need to at 50M (front sight only, leave the rear at 100). Now set your target at 100M and confirm your zero/make any fine tune adjustments. Doing the initial zero at 25M, than moving back to 50M, then confirming at 100M will save you some time and frustration. Here is how your POI should shift at 25M with your different elevation settings: POA = Center of Bullseye at 25M POI 100 Setting - 1 inch low (-1") POI 200 Setting - 1/2 inch low (-1/2") POI 300 Setting - 1/2 inch high (+1/2") POI 400 Setting - 1 1/4 inche high (+1 1/4") POI 500 Setting - 2 1/2 inches high (+2 1/2") POI 600 Setting - 4 inches high (+4")oed, so to engage target at say 500 meters, turn the spring loaded catcher to 5. His question was for the AK74, NOT the AK47. And because both rounds are significantly different in trajectory it will make a difference on how it's zeroed verus an AK47 zero. |
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Understood. First paste is for a 47 but the process there is basically the same. L/R and U/D are all adjusted the same. Just POI will change between the calibers.
Second paste is for 74. "This also assumes you are using surplus/62gr. 5.45 ammo at about 2900 fps. " I also consider this just a starting point to keep you on paper. It should be verified at 100m with the rear set to 1. ETA: Here is a good bullet drop chart and also a prior discussion on the AK-47 sister site topic chart sorry the chart is in metric. 2.54 cm per 1 inch |
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Quoted:
The following procedure will establish a zero at 25 meters, and your AK-47 will be set with a 1000 meter battle sight zero. This means that all shots will be within a 16" circle at all ranges up to 1000 meters. It must be a miracle! Most 7.62 caliber AKs won't do better than 4" at 100 meters, but somehow the rifle is transformed into one which will shoot a group 4 times that large at 10 times the range. It seems more likely that the original author hasn't fired the rifle much beyond 25 meters and certainly hasn't fired it at any range approaching 100 meters. |
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Quoted:
How many AK type rifles have rear-sight windage knobs? My SLR-106FR came with one from the factory, although I've never had to use it simply because the rifle has shot center line since right out of the box. They are a nice addition to any AK if you know how to use it. AK's are a lot more accurate than they are given credit for most the time. The comment made earlier about 4 inches at 100 meters I thought was really funny because I have never even seen a bottom of the line WASR shoot that bad........LOL |
| I've always taken the standard 74 to have a similar trajectory as an M4. The 16.2" barrel on the 74 would likely put the 53gr rounds near equal for say a 55gr 5.56 round out of a 14.5" barrel. I set my rear sight at 300 and battle zero at 25 meters. Then re-check my groups at 100 meters, adjust, and then again at 200 meters. Past this, I am not very good with standard AK irons though I've shot plate steel to much farther distances. |
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