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Posted: 2/9/2010 1:37:55 AM EDT
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Had to have a go at refinishing my new WASR - the first pic is a "before" shot - the rest are the results. :)
While I certainly like the finished wood I kind of miss the rugged utilitarian look at the same time. There are some more "before" pictures in my "got it" thread -> http://www.ak47.net/forums/topic.html?b=4&f=64&t=125588 http://www.dreamscraps.com/ak/ak10.jpg http://www.dreamscraps.com/ak/wasr1.jpg http://www.dreamscraps.com/ak/wasr2.jpg http://www.dreamscraps.com/ak/wasr3.jpg http://www.dreamscraps.com/ak/wasr4.jpg http://www.dreamscraps.com/ak/wasr5.jpg Thanks for looking! Dodge |
| When I got my first ak I sanded and refinished the wood.I never did get it as pretty as I wanted so I switched the wood for rails and a folding stock.I still have the stock.Although I think the wood stock is the most durrable you can have,I don't have one on any of my rifles.They just look ugly to me and feel wrong.On the brighter side,you did a nice job with your ugly wood furniture.This was not meant to be mean if it came out that way.I know alot of guys like the ''original'' wood. |
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Had to have a go at refinishing my new WASR - the first pic is a "before" shot - the rest are the results. :) While I certainly like the finished wood I kind of miss the rugged utilitarian look at the same time. There are some more "before" pictures in my "got it" thread -> http://www.ak47.net/forums/topic.html?b=4&f=64&t=125588 http://www.dreamscraps.com/ak/ak10.jpg http://www.dreamscraps.com/ak/wasr1.jpg http://www.dreamscraps.com/ak/wasr2.jpg http://www.dreamscraps.com/ak/wasr3.jpg http://www.dreamscraps.com/ak/wasr4.jpg http://www.dreamscraps.com/ak/wasr5.jpg Thanks for looking! Dodge I would submit that your rifle is now more utilitarian, in that the refinished components are better protected from the elements. In fact, I'd go a step further, and get some KG on the steel parts. |
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What did you use to stain the wood with? It looks really good!  Thanks! I used 4 or 5 applications of Minwax Sedonia Red - let each coat set for about 45 minutes, wipe off excess then let dry completely. Each coat darkens a bit so apply until happy with the color. Then - and this is long over due - they now have MinWax WIPE ON polyurethane! You don't have to use a brush and get all the bubbles! I applied about 10 coats of the Poly with a paper towel - go with the grain always - lightly go over with steel wool between coates and let it dry about 2 hours between - until it had a nice thick layer - then polish with a t-shirt. Let the Poly dry about 48 hours and you are ready to go. ;) Thanks everyone! |
Inspired, I arose this morning and ventured to Home Depot to get some stain. I got Sedona Red and returned home to disassemble the WASR. As you can see in the first pic, the stock is very light and was a very dense wood that did not take stain well. The front pieces were darker and more porous, so they got red only. After a few coats of red on the stock, I put one coat of mahogony and so far, before the polyurethane, they are a fairly close match. At least better than before. I will update when they are done.
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Did you sand it down to the bare wood? I used 100, 180, then 220 to finish out the sanding. My stock had oil and who knows what else saturated in it.
Yeah - the wood/stain formula is a bit tricky sometimes. When I put the first coat on it was so red I thought I totally screwed it up! My upper hand guard piece was so light it was as if from a completely different batch of wood-and the grain was tighter. I had to apply 3 times the stain as the others to get the match right. Good idea mixing in some darker stain. Also the longer you leave the stain on, before wiping off the excess, the darker it will get. Be patient with the Poly - let it dry several hours and lightly sand between coats. The more coats the deeper the glassy coat will look. Good luck! 
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| Yeah, I sanded a good bit from course to fine and then cleaned before applying the stain. I don't know what that stock is made of, but it is dense. It just wasn't going to look the way I wanted without changing stain colors. I wanted the whole thing to be more red, but the front was so dark to start with. I think it will look nice in the end. thanks for the tip on the wipe on poly....I have used spray on in the past and it sometimes comes out a mess with the humidity here. Unfortunately, I do not have the ideal temp here right now for this project, so I did it indoors. |
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I refinished my -2 & -10. A little elbow grease they turn out okay. I used Minwax red mahogany, I like the color. Good job above, nice work. I've been thinking of going with red mohogony for my PSL. Do you have any pics of your's in that color? I'd love to see 'em! To the OP, very nice job. Take care of the metal surfaces and you'll have that WASR lookin' top notch. |
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Quoted:
When I got my first ak I sanded and refinished the wood.I never did get it as pretty as I wanted so I switched the wood for rails and a folding stock.I still have the stock.Although I think the wood stock is the most durrable you can have,I don't have one on any of my rifles.They just look ugly to me and feel wrong.On the brighter side,you did a nice job with your ugly wood furniture.This was not meant to be mean if it came out that way.I know alot of guys like the ''original'' wood. 
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| Guys.....come on! AK's must ONLY be done in amber shellac!! You must NEVER polyurethane any Russian weapon, it's not a hunting rifle!! Just kidding, nice work guys! But seriously...if you want it to look "authentic", use Bullseye amber shellac! The stuff's awesome and gives the wood that deep orange/amber glow. Try some the next time. |
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