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Posted: 4/11/2009 8:43:42 PM EDT
| Ok, to comply with 922(r) I need a US trigger group on my M92 build. Are any of the available trigger groups better than others or should I just get Tapco's? |
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The ARSENAL FCG is absolute garbage IMO...
Some recent threads: http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=4&f=64&t=118384 http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=4&f=64&t=118260 http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=4&f=51&t=118514 |
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The Tapco G2 is fine. It does away with the traditional trigger complaints like the long gritty pull, the excessive slop, the excessive pull weight, and especially the nasty trigger slap that is found with many AK FCG's. The G2 installs easily, even for a novice. The single-hook G2 that's in my Romy build breaks at a clean 5.5 lbs. without even a hint of slap.
The RSA is fully adjustable and no doubt a better trigger than the Tapco, but many people don't know how to adjust them and can never quite make them right without going to a professional for help. The RSA is also more expensive, costing about 2x(?) the price of the Tapco. |
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Quoted:
The ARSENAL FCG is absolute garbage IMO... Some recent threads: http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=4&f=64&t=118384 http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=4&f=64&t=118260 http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=4&f=51&t=118514 Wow..Tapco makes something better than someone else? I guess the some what low round count on my Arsenals hasn't shown those catastrophic failure's yet. The AKs I actually shoot have Red Stars in them. I guess I'll be buying some more. I haven't had a lot of good experiences with Tapco made stuff. |
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Arsenal's first generation metal-injection-molded (MIM) hammers are prone to cracking and shattering. These were installed in some milled guns and the SLR105's. Arsenal did a redesign and these second generation hammers are installed in the newer stamped and milled guns. It's too early to dismiss the second generation ones in the newer stamped rifles as being junk, but castings are never as strong as forgings.
I find it interesting that K-VAR is now selling the MIM trigger and disconnector in a parts set with a forged Bulgarian hammer. Do they know something we don't? 
If Arsenal starts putting Bulgarian hammers in their rifles right from the factory, that will tell you to stay away from even the second generation hammers. |
| Those Bulgarian hammers will need some modifications in some rifles to clear the bottom of the bolt carrier. While I agree castings will never be as good as a forged part (Where does that leave an MIM part? Inferior to either one IMO), I have yet to experience any issues with countless of rounds through G2's going back when TAPCO bought the manufacturing rights from Gordon Tech. I have never read of an incident where a G2 failed, but numerous accounts of MIM parts failing, most notably in 1911's. |
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Quoted:
Those Bulgarian hammers will need some modifications in some rifles to clear the bottom of the bolt carrier. Can you explain what you mean by this? In a new rifle the bolt carrier tends to "hang up" on the hammer when you retract the bolt carrier manually, but this tends to go away as the rifle is used. The "hang up" never occurs during firing. I've never experienced one that needed to be modified to work. How can you tell which ones need modification? Also, I understand that the TAPCO G2 is very well made as far as metal hardness and durability, but in some rifles they need some gunsmithing to prevent hammer follow. It's a rare occurrence, IIRC, but sometimes the receiver's holes are drilled with just the right spacing that with a TAPCO G2 FCG installed you can make the rifle "double" by a slow, deliberate squeeze of the trigger. I have been able to do this with older forged Arsenal FCG's but don't have experience with TAPCO parts. The problem in some rifles is that if you pull the trigger so that the hammer JUST BARELY clears the trigger hook, and you don't pull the trigger the rest of the way, then the disconnector hook may not be positioned far enough forward to grab the trigger and you get doubling or hammer follow. If you always pull the trigger fully to the rear with each shot, this won't happen. Usually, you can't deliberately induce the hammer follow unless you bench rest the rifle and really try...but it is possible. |
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I know what your talking about, but that incident had been with the NDS-3 receiver*. It would have helped if the trigger leg slot wasn't so long, but the NDS-3 was designed for a Century FCG, but the ARSENAL one will work. A G2 will also, if one uses a double hook, and shorten the second cutout a bit. I had to do this with three NDS-3 receivers, but I don't own those anymore. ARSENAL AK's are the only AK's I have, or will likely to buy in the future. I've gotten out of collecting, and sold off my collectable's. Times being what they are....
As far as the forged Bulgarian hammer. On some rifles, the bolt carrier will hit against the hammer, and will not go forward. One can use a small probe of some kind to push the hammer down, but the carrier will hang up again once it's drawn to the rear. I installed a Bulgarian hammer in my SGL20, and again, this issue happened. The bolt carrier would not move forward, unless I used a small screwdriver to push the hammer down. Then the carrier would move forward, but lock up again, once drawn back. The shape of the rear of those Bulagrain hammers are different, and won't work with every carrier out there, unless the hammer is fitted. I didn't bother to fit that Bulgarian hammer, as the G2 FCG's had always performed great for me. I just wanted to see if it would work without issue in my SGL20. It would not. Nor would it work in three Romanian builds either For which I used the NDS-3 receivers. ___________________________________________________________________________ * I've only read/heard about such incidents with NDS-3 receivers... ETA: I'm mistaken. I had once purchased an RPK built upon an NDS-RPK receiver. The owner had installed a G2 single hook. There was a problem with it. The trigger would drop too far down, due to the cutout being too long. I only used that FCG to zero the rifle, and later modified it for a double hook, and the problem was solved. I would say if this issue occurs, it has more to do with the cutout in the receivers, than the actual FCG, but modifying for a double hook will cure such issues from occurring again. This was my only experience with a G2 single hook, but the problem wasn't with the FCG, however. |
Have some of each, RSA, G2, Arsenal, Century...never had the trigger sting until I tried a Romy oem fcg
RSA = #1 Great feel and adj, just a dab of blue loktite plus some aging means it never moves out of adj for cases/years for me. G2 is certainly good enough and polishable. Just not adjustable. |
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