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Posted: 12/28/2013 8:29:15 AM EDT
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Hey guys how are you.
So today I attempted shooting with my new scope on AKM. I don't seem to get it even after I watched videos and read about MOA. When I bought the scope it came zeroed from factory I am assuming but I intentiaonaly screwed up W/E so I could learn how the system works. I used the mirror trick to align the reticles as best as I could and I went to the range. At the range I wanted to try at 15 yards so I shot a group right below the center dot. Mind you I have no sandbag or anything to place rifle firmly horizontally so I shot with my elbow being my main grip. So yeah all shots below the center so I adjusted my elevation (top gear on scoe which I am assuming is top/bottom in simple terms) and kept eyeing the center and shooting and still hit the same spot. Then I pretty much just kept turning elevation untill it couldn't turn anymore and still nothing.I didn't even try anything farther than that, packed up my stuff so I won't waste bullets and now I am here seeking guidance. What am I doing wrong? How does this work and should I be shooting at 25+ yards (mind you guys I shot at 25 yards and hit nothing haha) Also does the mirror trick actualy more or less reset my zero right back to default? The instructional manual came with this paper that tells me all about zeroing and zero reseting but for some reason its jargon and its telling me it came with a hex tool but I only have an allen wrench to mount the scope into place. *shrugs* Thanks for any suggestions you can offer and I appologize if I sound dump or ignorant. |
First get something to use as a rest -- you'll have better results. Sounds like you have a scope problem if at 15 yds you run the elevation all the way and you get no change in impact (unless you didn't try the other way ). This could be due to an unstable rest (elbows) but I would assume you would see some change. Remember up, down, left and right may not mean move the reticle but move the bullet impact. I think most scopes mean the poi moves in that direction, but I always think in terms of reticle so I wind up turning the turrets the wrong way a lot .
Check your mount to make sure it doesn't move, and that all screws are tight. How to zero an AK for dummies like me: Put rifle on steady rest. Use biggest paper target you can find. Start close, get rounds on paper. Move paper out. Adjust group as necessary. I've always done fine tuning at 100 yds, which is shorter than 100m. Keep this in mind since the irons are in meters. And always zero your irons first. Just because.
Easiest way I've found to zero is rest your rifle. Fire group. Do not move your rifle. Move reticle to where your group centers. Fire again. You should be zeroed, if not do it again until rounds center on where your reticle is. Not really rocket science. 
For distance to zero -- depends on caliber, and shooter choice. MOA, MRAD, Trajectory and all that stuff can come later once you get your rifle to point of aim and your having fun. 
Mirror trick? Not familiar with it. Only mirror trick I know it what our branches of .Gov seem to use a lot lately -- Smoke and Mirrors 
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Thanks for your suggestions. Today I tried firing a group and then put the reticle on it and try again like you said but it didnt hit. Only when I lifted the rifle itself upward so my + was on top of the paper was when I started to hit the center at 15 yr. W/E knobs supposobly move the lens inside the scope as the + never change but I really hope its not the scope haha.
Maybe these long scopes are designed to work properly at 100yr because of all of the impacting things like gravity ect. Its not rocket science its true but the W/E knobs are...for now :) The mirror trick is when I put the scope against a mirror and I see a reflection of the reticle and I use W/E knobs to make + + meet in the middle, which is what I would assume resets default zero but apperantely it doesn't haha. |
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Quoted:
Thanks for your suggestions. Today I tried firing a group and then put the reticle on it and try again like you said but it didnt hit. Only when I lifted the rifle itself upward so my + was on top of the paper was when I started to hit the center at 15 yr. W/E knobs supposobly move the lens inside the scope as the + never change but I really hope its not the scope haha. Maybe these long scopes are designed to work properly at 100yr because of all of the impacting things like gravity ect. Its not rocket science its true but the W/E knobs are...for now :) The mirror trick is when I put the scope against a mirror and I see a reflection of the reticle and I use W/E knobs to make + + meet in the middle, which is what I would assume resets default zero but apperantely it doesn't haha. When you put the reticle on it, you did move it with the windage and elevation knobs to get it there while keeping the rifle in the same position as when you fired it  Why you need a good rifle rest.
Ahh.... Mirror. Got it. That is probably good for centering the reticle in the scope tube, but it doesn't zero the scope to the rifle. |
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What scope do you have? With a PSO or POSP, it's easy to tell if the windage and elevation turrets are functioning correctly without even firing a shot since the reticle moves within the FOV. I have Hammers Illuminated Varmint Hunting Riflescope 4-16X40AO w/ Weaver Scope Rings so I am not sure they fall under those 2 categories. I am just starting out with these. - So the mirror trick doesn't reset the zero. Yeah I am pretty sure I've completely messed up the zero on this scope by this point then hehe so how could I more or less start over as close as possible with this scope? Try it at 100yards and see what happens? Happy new year all! |
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