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Posted: 2/12/2008 7:23:12 PM EDT
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Whats happening all, please forgive my ignorance but i have really 2nd guessed and confused the hell outa myself. Couple questions (very stupid some are): 1-CLR(i know the name says it) but livin in a stupid apt i dont really have garage/porch/storage area, so can u use this stuff to clean and lube? ie: cleaning barrel, bolt, gas piston/tube etc.. and than use it to lube all parts? lookin for one product to do all 2.5- what parts should be scrubbed with the toothbrush? 2-After shooting non-corrosive ammo how do u properly clean inside of the reciever? spray/apply- CLR/oil on the fire control group and all the guts? use a brush & cloth? 3-Shootin corrosive- is it neccesarry to break down the bolt? how do u clean the gas port? what about inside the reciever again? once again sorry its a long string of ?'s but please enlightin me. thx much R |
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In order> 1. CLR?? If you mean CLP Breakfree, it's one of the very best lubricants and rust preventing lubes, and it "can" be used as a cleaner. However, it's not really all that good as a cleaner, and has little effect on bullet fouling. For cleaning you're better off to use an actual bore solvent like Hoppe's #9. The "C" part of CLP (Cleaner, Lubricant, Protection) is that it is really designed to keep carbon fouling in the action soft and allow the moving parts to "sweep" the fouling out of the way, allowing the weapon to keep working longer. Hoppe's isn't all that unpleasant smelling, and is specifically designed to remove carbon from parts, and for cleaning the bore of metal fouling. The "secret" to cleaning the bore, is to give the solvent TIME to work. Allow 30 minutes or so between patches to allow the Hoppe's to dissolve the fouling. 2.5 Scrub all parts that show fouling. This would include the bolt face, the inside of the gas tube, the inside if the gas block, the bolt carrier around the bolt caming area and where it's close to the chamber, the inside of any muzzle attachment. While it's not absolutely necessary to clean carbon fouling off the gas piston head, you can easily do this with a "Lead-Away: type cloth. Buy these at the local gun store. It's a heavy, waxy feeling yellow cloth that strips leading and carbon fouling right off by just rubbing with the cloth. DO NOT USE ON BLUED GUNS. It also rubs bluing right off. NEVER scrape the gas piston head with any steel object or modern coin. These will scratch the head, making it foul even worse. Also NEVER use ANY type of abrasive product or metal polish on the head. To clean the head, either use the Lead-Away type cloth or scrape with a BRASS scraper made from sheet bras. 2. I use clean toothbrushes with just a drop of CLP Breakfree on them and clean paper towels to clean the receiver. The major areas to clean are around and in the barrel trunnion where the bolt locking lugs are. The rest of the receiver doesn't get too dirty. 3. For corrosive ammo you have to clean EVERYWHERE the corrosive fumes have come in contact. Most people use HOT water to flush everything. Most don't disassemble the bolt, just use a toothbrush wet with water. Personally I do disassemble the bolt, your choice. Areas to flush with HOT water are: The bore and chamber. The gas block. The gas piston and areas on the bolt carrier the fumes contact. The bolt face. The inside of the gas tube. The muzzle and any muzzle attachment. If you use hot water the heat will warm the metal and it'll quickly self dry. Personally I disassemble the rifle and take it to a large sink or bath tub. I run hot water down the bore and chamber using a small funnel, then I run water into the gas block which also cleans the gas port. The gas port is self-cleaning so all you need to do is flush the corrosive fumes out. I wash off the gas piston and bolt carrier, keeping water off the rear area and out of the recoil spring hole. I use a 12 gauge shotgun brush dipped in lots of water to scrub the inside of the gas tube. I use fairly damp paper towel to wipe the inside of the receiver. After flushing with plenty of water and allowing the metal to self-dry from the heat, I clean the rifle with bore solvent as normal. For cleaning corrosive ammo residue, you can also use Windex, Ballistol mixed with water, or a kitchen cleaning spray like 409, etc. All you have to do is make sure whatever you use contains a large percentage of water. Normal lubricants and bore solvents DON'T. I take better care of my guns than most people, so some may think my method is over-kill. But I live in a humid area and I've never had a rusty gun. |
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