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Posted: 1/16/2006 8:41:11 AM EDT
I worked on pulling the barrel from my M70AB2 parts set this morning. First Yugo I've built with.

I've seen the damage the barrels incur from the trunnion dragging on them, and I soaked it in Liquid wrench for 24 hours first. These suckers are in there tight. Had to pound on top of the jackstand of my press with a 3 lb. sledge to break it loose.

I consider myself lucky to only have some scraping, and not a deep gouge like I've seen in others' posts.

Link Posted: 1/16/2006 8:55:16 AM EDT
Mine was alot tighter then my Romys were , froze the barrle tossed the trunnion in the oven and it pulled together fairly easy with all thread
Link Posted: 1/16/2006 11:28:15 AM EDT
My brother and I took apart 5 Yugos this weekend, waiting for our receivers. 1 galled REAL bad, 1 was like yours and the other three went pretty smooth.....they are a bitch to get out...galled or not
Link Posted: 1/16/2006 12:32:06 PM EDT

I finished disassembling the rest of it this afternoon. Fought me every step of the way. Both the front and the rear trunnions had spot welds in addition to the rivets. That through rivet in the front was fun, broke a drill bit off in it.

The Yugos make these rifles solid. Those "G" Romanians are child's play in comparison.
Link Posted: 1/16/2006 1:49:22 PM EDT
I removed my galling with a dremel but it wasnt very deep. then I came back with sandpaper and polished the whole top of the barrel area that fits the trunnion. With a good coating of antisieze and 30 minutes at 300 degrees for the reciever/trunnion she slip together like a dream. Didnt even wipe all the antisieze for the top of the barrel where it was polished. checked headspace after ever 5 rounds for the first 20 then dumped another 20 quick. never moved so I am pretty satisfied she is there to stay.
Link Posted: 1/16/2006 2:00:44 PM EDT
Don't think I'll bother dressing the scrapes on mine. The parts set is kind of dinged-up anyway.

I agree that the anti-seize is good stuff.
Link Posted: 1/16/2006 3:57:33 PM EDT
After getting galling on two (Romy and Yugo) we shot some lube into the pin hole before pulling. Haven't seen a lick of galling since.
Link Posted: 1/17/2006 2:26:32 AM EDT
Branspop- Any special lube? Oil or grease?
Link Posted: 1/17/2006 3:43:32 AM EDT
No, WD40 is what we shot in there (Just because it was near the press). I imagine any of the regular lubes would work.
Link Posted: 1/17/2006 5:41:21 AM EDT

Originally Posted By Branspop:
After getting galling on two (Romy and Yugo) we shot some lube into the pin hole before pulling. Haven't seen a lick of galling since.



That is what I do also.......a good shot of kroil....have a couple of beers and your good to go.
Link Posted: 1/17/2006 5:59:40 AM EDT

I soaked everything in Liquid Wrench for a day, popped out the barrel pin, and pushed out the barrel immediately.

Next time, I think I'll pause after removing the pin and squirt oil into the barrel pin hole and let that sit for a while.

Link Posted: 1/17/2006 7:22:00 AM EDT
Cleaning out the barrel pin hole is the most important. Squirting the lube in through the hole accomplishes this. I run a bore cleaning brush through also. As a side note, Dosn't this seem to happen to the nicer kits kits you do?
Link Posted: 1/17/2006 12:29:35 PM EDT
I just finished removing the barrel pin and barrel from a Romanian RPK. I soaked the pin and barrel breech with Kroil for a couple of days. Before I worked on the pin I used a heat gun to warm things up a bit. The pin popped out with a few whacks of my hammer and punch. The barrel came out very easily also. I am convinced that the application of Kroil and a little heat is the way to go.
When I built my Tantal I used Midway's case sizing spray lube on the barrel and trunnion when I pressed the barrel back in. The spray lube worked better than the anti-seize that I had used on previous builds. That's what I will use on my future builds. It seems to have more lubricity than the anti-seize does.
Link Posted: 1/19/2006 12:24:45 PM EDT
Try a 6 inch vise, a 3/8 socket ground to fit the trunion side, a really short 1/4 in. push pin, plus sucessively longer ones, and a piece of pipe on the vise handle. Torque it down until the pin ALMOST buckles. Then whack the movable end of the vise with a big hammer or hand sledge. It'll probably move a touch. Use longer pins as needed. My worst case was a Tantal that needed a pin, made from a piece of a 1/4 in. drill shank, so short I only got in 2 vise cranks before putting in a slightly longer one. The push pin got squashed, now looks like a little barrel.

Of my 3 Romys, one came out by hammer and punch easily, one in the vise with difficulty, one almost as bad as the horrible Tantal. Only one gave an audible pop, and all the tough ones fought me all the way.

Pushing the barrel was similar, one with a hammer and socket, the others pretty tough using the Autozone pulley puller in a vise and a big long wrench to turn it. Just be sure to shim the barrel breech so you get a straight push.

BTW, I heated them, soaked for a week in PB Blaster, froze, used receiver heating, air hammered - didn't help until I got the monster 6 inch industrial vise, made short push pins and cranked and whacked.

Also, push from right (looking forward, to left. My pins were tapered a bit less than .001, assuming it didn't happen from all the hammering!
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