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Interesting. I have never heard of "drive screws" before. So you just used your press and pressed them in huh? Are these "drive screws" available at any hardware store?
BTW, nice AK!! |
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I got them as "left overs" from a project at work, but when I googled them I found them on www.milspecfasteners.com. There are other suppliers too. Just google "type U drive screw". The only reason I had never bought any before is because all the suppliers that I contacted only sold them in large quantities.
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Wow, thanks for the insight on another build method. I did a search on McMaster-Carr's website and found out that they carry the U-screws.
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How tight do these hold? Would they need to have a dab of loc-tite?
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Before I did my build I tested one on a piece of I-beam in my garage. I used one to attach a piece of receiver stub to the beam and I couldn't pry the drive screw out with a screwdriver. I think that these will certainly survive the tensile forces on them in an AK build and as far as shear forces, the shear forces on AK rivets are negligible.
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OK let me see if I understand what you mean:
-are the sheAr forces those which go against the long-axis of the screw? In other words, side-to-side? -are the tensile forces the ones which act on the long-axis, attempting to move the screw out of it's hole in the opposite direction it was driven? In other words, in-and-out? I am not an engineer, so these words cause confusion for me. How many other people have tried this? It certainly seems to have potential... And you haven't been blown up yet, which is nice Edit: we're dealing with metal and not lingerie aren't we? |
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Are these made of aluminum or steel? Either way, I would be interested in building an AK using these and then shooting the piss out of it to see how long these will last.
I suspect they will outlast me. |
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WinnR on gunco.net has done a few and he has a friend who has put thousands of rounds through his drive pin build with no problems.
The pins I used were grade 8 steel. And yes they did spin as I pressed them in. Shear forces are forces across the axis and tensile forces are the forces trying to pull the screw out. |
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Wow, this gives the authentic rivet look without the rivet hassle.
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What size do you use and will these work
www.hansonrivet.com/w58.htm How about this company again what size do you use www.fastenal.com/web/products.ex?N=999600056&Nty=0 |
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Very cool. Some good specs I found:
http://www.americanfastener.com/fasteners/selftapping.asp |
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Well I just ordered 100 of them for 8$ I hope I got the right size
www.fastenal.com/web/products.ex?N=999600056&Nty=0 |
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The ones I used were left over from a project I did for GE. I believe they were a #10 grade 8 and about .250" long.
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Question Dale,did you have to do any tapping of the holes for these fasteners?Thanks.
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No tapping. Just drill and install. Couldn't be easier. |
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my local fastenal has a couple hundred of the #10x1/4" drives in stock. he's holding 'em for me till i get off work. we'll see just how nice these work; i've got a SA-85 that's just begging to be built.
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This is a great thread, and it looks like a great idea. Thanks Dale....
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anyone have any idea of the rivet sizes AK's require??? I can't find a tutorial anywhere, and since I don't have a rivet set yet I can't measure them.....can anyone help??
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I just ordered some from my local Fastenal. I should have them by tues. I am going to use them on a Yugo build first. here's what I was thinking... I will probably only use these in the spots in the front trunnion that I can't get at without pulling the barrel. the two lower ones in the rear of the trunnion I can use rivits. as I will also do for the trigger guard and rear trunnion. so I will only use 2 U drive screws, just so I won't have to pull the barrel. so I don't see any problems using these. I'll post pics as I go.
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Yeah, I plan on ordering a couple to do an AMD kit that is being stubborn on me; the barrel does not seem to wanna come out, even when I use my 12 ton press. I plan on doing the 4 front trunion holes since the rest of the revits have been drilled out and removed.
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Will these u-drives work if the rivets have been completely removed? Say, by using a slightly larger size?
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I would think they would work just fine if you get the right size. The ones I used were grade 8 so they should bite into the trunnion and tang just fine. |
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When you get these, could you post a pic and tell us if they are the right size please? |
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Well the 1st order I got was wrong dont get #8 1/4 they are to small the next order I will get monday and they are # 10 3/8 I think those will work I will let you know monday |
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+1 Dalesimpson,I think I may build a shrine to you in my backyard for this thread |
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I just ordered #10s too. I have one that stripped the threads on and had to go up to a 1/4 X24. It works fine, but I would like to do this U drive on it too. What do you guys think I should go with, #12s maybe?
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I am SO going to try this on that Ammunition Store cheapy Yugo I have coming.
And here next weekend is three days long. Cool. |
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Some brave soul should make up sets of these and sell them via PayPal for $5 each. Maybe a +1 set for slightly larger holes.
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