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Posted: 12/8/2005 9:19:27 AM EDT
I'm going to us Dura or GK to finish my Romy.
Will sand paper or steel wool suffice for surface prep? I would also appreciate any additional tips regarding surface prep.

Thanks
Link Posted: 12/8/2005 9:30:37 AM EDT
Stuff needs some "Tooth" to hold onto the rifle. I tried sandpaper and the Guncote gets knoked off. I will bead blast the barrel when I refinish it.
Link Posted: 12/8/2005 8:35:37 PM EDT
Jasco Prep and Primer. I got mine at Lowes. http://www.jasco-help.com/products/prod_mg.htm
Link Posted: 12/9/2005 2:46:16 PM EDT
Using ground glass in the blast cabinet will leave a finish that most any good paint can get a grip on without removing unnecessary metal. I get mine from Grainger and it lasts through many jobs....

Originally Posted By DanishM1Garand:
Stuff needs some "Tooth" to hold onto the rifle. I tried sandpaper and the Guncote gets knoked off. I will bead blast the barrel when I refinish it.

Link Posted: 12/9/2005 5:48:50 PM EDT
Some guys swear by Naval Jelly. They just leave it on extra long and it roughs up the surface nicely.
Link Posted: 12/9/2005 5:56:14 PM EDT


 AARP Member
http://65.172.200.34/aceface.gif
If your parts have paint on em or other weird stuff - your going to need to get it OFF. Bead or a light sand blasting is the EZiest. It also does a nice job on removing surface scratches. Just don't over do it - it can round edges.


________________________________________________
Getting old sucks.

Link Posted: 12/10/2005 7:31:21 AM EDT
I think the implication is that the poster isn't set up to do blasting....
Link Posted: 12/14/2005 6:40:16 AM EDT
I would advise finding a local machine shop or metal fabrication company. Most of them will have a sand- or bead-blaster, and I would bet that the guy(s) who use it would be glad to blast your AK parts just for a change of pace. If not, offer them a 6 pack.
Link Posted: 12/14/2005 1:22:30 PM EDT

Originally Posted By webtaz99:
I would advise finding a local machine shop or metal fabrication company. Most of them will have a sand- or bead-blaster, and I would bet that the guy(s) who use it would be glad to blast your AK parts just for a change of pace. If not, offer them a 6 pack.



There aren't any locally for me. Like the original poster was asking, is there an alternative to blasting? There has to be a way to abrade the surface enough for parking to stick without completely tearing it up.
Link Posted: 12/14/2005 4:41:12 PM EDT
It's not just the lack of equipment (although I am purty cheap). I've done a little bead and sandblasting in the past, and as Ace said, I know that it's fairly easy to overdo it. I've seen guns and other equipment thats really been hosed by someone without blasting finesse. I'm not looking for perfection, but I'm a little leery of handing my gun over to someone with unknown skill and asking them to blast it for me. I may just have to cough up the dough for a blasting cabinet. But not before I test the Naval Jelly trick

By the way. Does all the blueing have to be removed prior to painting?

Thanks
Link Posted: 12/14/2005 4:52:07 PM EDT
Really, a phosphoric acid etch works well to give the paint something to hold on to. If you cant find Jasco, just look for anything else that contains phosphoric acid, such as naval jelly. If you do blast, use sand and not beads.
Link Posted: 12/14/2005 7:39:51 PM EDT

Originally Posted By ozzy_the_nuke:
Really, a phosphoric acid etch works well to give the paint something to hold on to. If you cant find Jasco, just look for anything else that contains phosphoric acid, such as naval jelly. If you do blast, use sand and not beads.



Coca-cola!
Link Posted: 12/15/2005 11:05:38 AM EDT

Originally Posted By Nate7out:

Originally Posted By ozzy_the_nuke:
Really, a phosphoric acid etch works well to give the paint something to hold on to. If you cant find Jasco, just look for anything else that contains phosphoric acid, such as naval jelly. If you do blast, use sand and not beads.



Coca-cola!



Sure, if you want a sticky gun.
Link Posted: 12/15/2005 2:02:34 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 12/15/2005 2:02:59 PM EDT by Muskrat]
I've thought about it for a while, and now I'm curious. Not that I'd use it, but would Coke work?
Link Posted: 12/15/2005 2:20:59 PM EDT
If you're looking at a GunKote finish... consider using KPHOS (also available from KG Coatings).

I've used this on about 5 rifles. Take the rifle into the white, get it clean, spray KPHOS. Wait about 20 minutes - then GunKote it. It's essentially spray on Phosphoric Acid + clear primer... and it works VERY Well. Cheap too :)
Link Posted: 12/16/2005 5:02:06 AM EDT
I don't think you'll be happy not bead blasting. And because Gunkote requires heat and is its own special formula, you can't apply it over another non-Gunkote finish. Don't know about Dura.

Consider AlumaHyde II from Brownells. Inexpensive, easy and gives a finish at least equal to Gunkote applied to bare metal.

Gunkote over a parked finish is the very best of all and is what most Gunkote refinishers recommend. Mac's Restorations does it this way. But parking is generally not for the home DIYer.

HTH
Link Posted: 12/16/2005 6:56:35 AM EDT
Muskrat,
Where are you in Colorado? I have bluing, parkerizing and bead-blast equipment.
Link Posted: 12/16/2005 7:42:59 AM EDT

Originally Posted By Muskrat:
I've thought about it for a while, and now I'm curious. Not that I'd use it, but would Coke work?



Phosphoric acid is one of the "secret ingredients" in Coke. Another little known secret is that Coke is good at looosening rusted fasteners. But the phos concentration is not strong enough to give a good etch for painting purposes. Jasco is about 75% IIRC. Dont drink it.
Link Posted: 12/17/2005 6:13:21 PM EDT

Originally Posted By arcom:


Gunkote over a parked finish is the very best of all and is what most Gunkote refinishers recommend. Mac's Restorations does it this way. But parking is generally not for the home DIYer.

HTH




Kinda a hijack here, but lets say I have a parked 1911 and want to Gunkote it in tan or OD, is there anything I would have to do other than degrease it ? Also is there a thread anyone knows of on how to gunkote a semi auto? How much of the gun do you do ? The inside and out on everything,other than the bbl?
Link Posted: 12/17/2005 6:27:42 PM EDT

Originally Posted By Muskrat:

Originally Posted By webtaz99:
I would advise finding a local machine shop or metal fabrication company. Most of them will have a sand- or bead-blaster, and I would bet that the guy(s) who use it would be glad to blast your AK parts just for a change of pace. If not, offer them a 6 pack.



There aren't any locally for me. Like the original poster was asking, is there an alternative to blasting? There has to be a way to abrade the surface enough for parking to stick without completely tearing it up.





If you can't find a metal fab/machine shop, try looking for a shop that makes headstones/grave markers. They've usually got blasting equipment, and alot of those guys are real craftsmen and have the necessary skill/finesse to blast your parts without "burning" spots or taking too much metal off.
Link Posted: 12/18/2005 10:19:20 PM EDT

Originally Posted By Stasher1:

If you can't find a metal fab/machine shop, try looking for a shop that makes headstones/grave markers. They've usually got blasting equipment, and alot of those guys are real craftsmen and have the necessary skill/finesse to blast your parts without "burning" spots or taking too much metal off.



Interesting idea. I know a guy that either owns or used to own a funeral home. Is that what you mean?


Originally Posted By stoner63a:
Muskrat,
Where are you in Colorado? I have bluing, parkerizing and bead-blast equipment.



I'm in a little town in northern CO. I appriciate your offer, but don't worry about it. I'm looking for a long-term solution.
Link Posted: 12/19/2005 8:50:15 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 12/19/2005 8:57:00 AM EDT by zzdroptop]
How about some kind of an etching primer like Eastwood sales....anyone ever try any of that as a primer for the duracoat?

http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/product/detailmain.jsp?itemID=1141&itemType=PRODUCT&iProductID=1141
Link Posted: 12/19/2005 12:05:17 PM EDT
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