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Posted: 12/8/2005 9:30:37 AM EDT
[#1]
Stuff needs some "Tooth" to hold onto the rifle. I tried sandpaper and the Guncote gets knoked off. I will bead blast the barrel when I refinish it.
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Posted: 12/8/2005 8:35:37 PM EDT
[#2]
Jasco Prep and Primer. I got mine at Lowes. http://www.jasco-help.com/products/prod_mg.htm
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Posted: 12/9/2005 2:46:16 PM EDT
[#3]
Using ground glass in the blast cabinet will leave a finish that most any good paint can get a grip on without removing unnecessary metal. I get mine from Grainger and it lasts through many jobs....
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Posted: 12/9/2005 5:48:50 PM EDT
[#4]
Some guys swear by Naval Jelly. They just leave it on extra long and it roughs up the surface nicely.
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Posted: 12/9/2005 5:56:14 PM EDT
[#5]
AARP Member http://65.172.200.34/aceface.gif If your parts have paint on em or other weird stuff - your going to need to get it OFF. Bead or a light sand blasting is the EZiest. It also does a nice job on removing surface scratches. Just don't over do it - it can round edges. ________________________________________________ Getting old sucks. |
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Posted: 12/10/2005 7:31:21 AM EDT
[#6]
I think the implication is that the poster isn't set up to do blasting....
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Posted: 12/14/2005 6:40:16 AM EDT
[#7]
I would advise finding a local machine shop or metal fabrication company. Most of them will have a sand- or bead-blaster, and I would bet that the guy(s) who use it would be glad to blast your AK parts just for a change of pace. If not, offer them a 6 pack.
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Posted: 12/14/2005 1:22:30 PM EDT
[#8]
There aren't any locally for me. Like the original poster was asking, is there an alternative to blasting? There has to be a way to abrade the surface enough for parking to stick without completely tearing it up. |
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Posted: 12/14/2005 4:41:12 PM EDT
[#9]
It's not just the lack of equipment (although I am purty cheap). I've done a little bead and sandblasting in the past, and as Ace said, I know that it's fairly easy to overdo it. I've seen guns and other equipment thats really been hosed by someone without blasting finesse. I'm not looking for perfection, but I'm a little leery of handing my gun over to someone with unknown skill and asking them to blast it for me. I may just have to cough up the dough for a blasting cabinet. But not before I test the Naval Jelly trick
 By the way. Does all the blueing have to be removed prior to painting? Thanks |
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Posted: 12/14/2005 4:52:07 PM EDT
[#10]
Really, a phosphoric acid etch works well to give the paint something to hold on to. If you cant find Jasco, just look for anything else that contains phosphoric acid, such as naval jelly. If you do blast, use sand and not beads.
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Posted: 12/14/2005 7:39:51 PM EDT
[#11]
Coca-cola! |
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Posted: 12/15/2005 11:05:38 AM EDT
[#12]
Sure, if you want a sticky gun. 
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Posted: 12/15/2005 2:02:34 PM EDT
[#13]
I've thought about it for a while, and now I'm curious. Not that I'd use it, but would Coke work?
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Posted: 12/15/2005 2:20:59 PM EDT
[#14]
If you're looking at a GunKote finish... consider using KPHOS (also available from KG Coatings).
I've used this on about 5 rifles. Take the rifle into the white, get it clean, spray KPHOS. Wait about 20 minutes - then GunKote it. It's essentially spray on Phosphoric Acid + clear primer... and it works VERY Well. Cheap too :) |
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Posted: 12/16/2005 5:02:06 AM EDT
[#15]
I don't think you'll be happy not bead blasting. And because Gunkote requires heat and is its own special formula, you can't apply it over another non-Gunkote finish. Don't know about Dura.
Consider AlumaHyde II from Brownells. Inexpensive, easy and gives a finish at least equal to Gunkote applied to bare metal. Gunkote over a parked finish is the very best of all and is what most Gunkote refinishers recommend. Mac's Restorations does it this way. But parking is generally not for the home DIYer. HTH |
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Posted: 12/16/2005 6:56:35 AM EDT
[#16]
Muskrat,
Where are you in Colorado? I have bluing, parkerizing and bead-blast equipment. |
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Posted: 12/16/2005 7:42:59 AM EDT
[#17]
Phosphoric acid is one of the "secret ingredients" in Coke. Another little known secret is that Coke is good at looosening rusted fasteners. But the phos concentration is not strong enough to give a good etch for painting purposes. Jasco is about 75% IIRC. Dont drink it. 
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Posted: 12/17/2005 6:13:21 PM EDT
[#18]
Kinda a hijack here, but lets say I have a parked 1911 and want to Gunkote it in tan or OD, is there anything I would have to do other than degrease it ? Also is there a thread anyone knows of on how to gunkote a semi auto? How much of the gun do you do ? The inside and out on everything,other than the bbl? |
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Posted: 12/17/2005 6:27:42 PM EDT
[#19]
If you can't find a metal fab/machine shop, try looking for a shop that makes headstones/grave markers. They've usually got blasting equipment, and alot of those guys are real craftsmen and have the necessary skill/finesse to blast your parts without "burning" spots or taking too much metal off. |
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Posted: 12/18/2005 10:19:20 PM EDT
[#20]
Interesting idea. I know a guy that either owns or used to own a funeral home. Is that what you mean?
I'm in a little town in northern CO. I appriciate your offer, but don't worry about it. I'm looking for a long-term solution. |
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Posted: 12/19/2005 8:50:15 AM EDT
[#21]
How about some kind of an etching primer like Eastwood sales....anyone ever try any of that as a primer for the duracoat?
http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/product/detailmain.jsp?itemID=1141&itemType=PRODUCT&iProductID=1141 |
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Posted: 12/19/2005 12:05:17 PM EDT
[#22]
Any of the modern firearms coatings both thermal and ambient cure will require surface preperation to adhear properly. I recommend light media blasting with 80 to 120 grit alum oxide. Dont use glass beads they can polish the surface makinf it harder for the coating to stick. Alum oxide will rough up the surface and give the coating something to hang on to. A fine sandpaper 400 to 600 grit will suffice. I did a how to thread on the prep & application on ar15armory.com. If you have any questions on application or the coatings please give me a call. My contact info, an overview of some coatings, & color charts are on my website: LTM Refinishing. Hope it helps, good luck with the refinish & post some pic's when you get it done.
Joe |
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