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Posted: 4/27/2003 2:11:27 PM EDT
What do I need to rivet my trunnions in? I have all the rivets. Tool?? Tools??
Link Posted: 4/28/2003 3:31:22 AM EDT
Link Posted: 4/29/2003 6:52:33 AM EDT
The rear trunnion is the easy as you only need a hydraulic press since the rivet goes through the receiver completely. All you need is a bottom plate that has a small concave cup into it that matches the shape of the rivet head you want to form. Drill the open end of the rivet slight to help the forming process and press it into this cup in the bottom plate.

The barrel trunnion, however, is a different story. It is not easy by any stretch of the imagination. This is because the four rivets that terminate inside the barrel slieve. There are two recessed bands inside of this slieve. The rivet heads must be formed inside of these bands completely as to not obstruct the barrel when pressed in. Tough to do as this is a very tight area. It is hard to use a hand bucking bar effectively.

Working on the rivets is the most difficult aspect of building your own out of a parts kit, IMO. This includes removing the old rivets. Most say to drill them out but you will read about fail attempts cause either by a wandering drill bit (usually the rear trunnion), or drilling into the barrel. Most of these parts kits have trunnions that are not hardened well at all. A HSS drill bit can easily drill through.

Finally, the most important aspect on building an AK is to be careful of the advice you receive. I've found that many posters information lacks the key info that leads me to believe that they have not built but are just reading and passing on. Things get lost in the translation or the pass. There are a few who are very consistent with their info. Get to know who these are. Quaterbore probably has the best approach which is post on several boards and sift through the info (rather home in on the best advice).
Link Posted: 5/9/2003 9:19:23 AM EDT
I just made a rivet jig that really is no more than a simple anvil affair out of a piece of 4"x8"flat iron 5/8 thick and another one 2"x4" and a piece of bar stock 13/16th 2" long.First I welded the 2"x4" piece in the middle of the bigger flat on edge then cetered the bar stock on top of the 2" peice the long way for support then put a little blob of weld about 3/4" back from the edge so it will set up in the milled out slots inside the truion. Works great. Did the riveting on the trunion in about ten minutes with a hammer and a rivet set made out of air chisel attachment.
Link Posted: 5/21/2003 8:24:15 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 5/21/2003 8:25:05 PM EDT by f16warbird]

Originally Posted By Droog:
I just made a rivet jig that really is no more than a simple anvil affair out of a piece of 4"x8"flat iron 5/8 thick and another one 2"x4" and a piece of bar stock 13/16th 2" long.First I welded the 2"x4" piece in the middle of the bigger flat on edge then cetered the bar stock on top of the 2" peice the long way for support then put a little blob of weld about 3/4" back from the edge so it will set up in the milled out slots inside the truion. Works great. Did the riveting on the trunion in about ten minutes with a hammer and a rivet set made out of air chisel attachment.



I don't mean to split hairs, but you didn't make a jig, you made a bucking bar. Just a tip, it's a good idea to polish the surface of the bucking bar that the rivet shank will be pressed against in order to create a uniform shop head.

Another tip: after center punching the surface of the rivet you remove, start with a smaller bit (preferably a #40). Drill about 1/16th below the flush surface. Change your bit to the appropriate size hole and ream the pilot hole. Take a pin punch of the same size as the bit and gently pop the head off. Support the underside of the work area with a wood block, or something equally sturdy and punch the rivet through. You shouldn't have to kill it to get it out. If it's not coming out, drill a little deeper and try again.

The aforementioned method aleviates the probability of elongating the hole.

**One important point to remember** - If you are drilling out steel rivets, use slow speed & heavy feed. If you go full power you're just gonna destroy your drill bit (work harden).

I hope this helps.
Link Posted: 5/21/2003 8:33:00 PM EDT
Damn, I thought it was possible for a regular joe to put an AK kit together.

Any of you guys want rivet one for some $'s?
Link Posted: 5/21/2003 8:38:50 PM EDT
I apologize if I made it seem overly complicated. Riveting is not. I just know from my profession what some of the "gotchas" are. I recommend doing a net search on "how to rivet" and you'll be able to see pictures of the process.

Either that or you could do what I did and see you're local Air Force recruiter. LOL!
Link Posted: 5/22/2003 3:32:36 AM EDT
Link Posted: 5/22/2003 7:45:12 PM EDT
Does anyone have any pics of riveting the barrel trunnion with out the barrel in the trunnion.
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