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Posted: 9/4/2015 2:14:08 PM EDT
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I am really confused on this issue.
Some people seem to use oil as a lubricant only while others coat all metal parts inside and out on the lower while cleaning/lubricating. What is right? I am going to get rust if I only lubricate the contact points? |
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Quoted:
Sorry for my noobish responses. Treated coated steel parts or uncoated? Anywhere metal contacts metal no matter the finish lube is always a good idea. You are really overthinking it their is no correct amount a lube just to little lube. Most pistol makers have a lube pattern you can follow that outlines the specific places lube is a good idea to be present. |
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Quoted:
Anywhere metal contacts metal no matter the finish lube is always a good idea. You are really overthinking it their is no correct amount a lube just to little lube. Most pistol makers have a lube pattern you can follow that outlines the specific places lube is a good idea to be present. Quoted:
Quoted:
Sorry for my noobish responses. Treated coated steel parts or uncoated? Anywhere metal contacts metal no matter the finish lube is always a good idea. You are really overthinking it their is no correct amount a lube just to little lube. Most pistol makers have a lube pattern you can follow that outlines the specific places lube is a good idea to be present. I tend to overthink things. I think I have the general understanding, but I was referring to the finish on the inside and outside rather than the contact points. |
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Quoted:
I treat all coated steel parts. I've seen a good amount of parkerized steel that still managed to rust. (Barrels etc) Quoted:
Quoted:
Sorry for my noobish responses. Treated coated steel parts or uncoated? I treat all coated steel parts. I've seen a good amount of parkerized steel that still managed to rust. (Barrels etc) Just what I'm looking for. I'm just not accustomed to rust I suppose. The humidity rarely hits 10% here - I'd probably have more issues with the lube evaporating! Thanks! 
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| I'd highly advise against just slinging lube into your lower. You only need a light film of oil or grease on your FCG and NOTHING on anything but maybe your pins and safety. Anything more than that is just going to attract more crap next time you fire the weapon. That goes for any gun; handguns as well. I never oil anything in my handgun lowers except like I said, I light film on the FCG and contact points where metal contacts metal. I usually go by the rule that I lube anything that would benefit from a good polish. And i follow that rule the other direction; I usually polish anything that could benefit from a good lube. That theory has gotten me a long way with no break downs. The upper OTOH, I run pretty wet. I use Fireclean on my AR/AK's and Mil-comm on my automatics and they both perform very, very well. |
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The OP needs to read the user manal - TM9-1005-319-10 (M4/M16 Users Manual)
You're going to want to start reading at page 16 and end at 34. Note the section is broken into clean then a section on lubrication. Many of us clean with CLP (Breakfree, RoyCo 634, or other similar product). These CLPs can be used to clean, then lubricate the moving the parts. Pay particular attention to page 28 where it describes the difference between 'light lube' and 'generously lubed'; because the directions on the following pages will tell you what to use and where. |
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cleaning habits differ from person to person. I recommend reading professional literature first then deciding on what would work for you instead of reading some forum about how Jim Bob soaked his ar in a tub of lemon juice.
Generally speaking you want some layer of protection on metal surfaces then some added layer of protection on areas where contacts are made. |
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It's important to know that "CLP" actually stands for "Clean, Lubricate, and Protect." It is NOT an "oil". It's a multi-purpose product that was introduced to reduce the amount of crap a Soldier needs to carry into the field. To make matters worse, there isn't a single "CLP" product - there's Break-Free, G96, even FrogLube CLP! "Cleaning" with CLP isn't as straightforward as it would be when using a traditional gun cleaning solvent; there's a lot of overlap between the "clean" part and the "lubricate" part of the process.
I clean and remove dirty lube using Slip 2000's 725 Degreaser. Unlike gun cleaning solvents, this stuff isn't toxic (it ain't yummy, but it won't kill you or make you blind). I scrub places that are filthy, and wipe off everything else using the 725 as a cleaner. I clean bores with a nylon or bronze brush for at least one pass, but then use patches soaked in 725 to clean the bore. I wipe off any excess 725 and let the parts air dry (or rinse with 91% rubbing alcohol if I'm in a hurry - 725 is water soluble), and then apply a lubricant to protect steel surfaces and provide lubrication to sliding/moving parts. Apply liberally, let the lube sit (it can take a while for it to penetrate certain surface finishes like phosphate/Parkerizing), then wipe off excess to leave a light film. Check out the Maintenance & Cleaning forum for more detail (and the potential religious arguments regarding which specific lube is best and which will give your dog rabies...) |
| I like to use grease on the sliding parts (basically just the bcg and trigger Sears) and clp or even better slip 2000 on rotating parts and every thing else. Where ever your gonna have friction you should lube it up. Any type of lube is better then none dry guns are more likely to fail then we'll lubed one's in my experience. |
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CLP is a "field" solution and absolutely NOT the proper (best) way to lubricate your firearm. CLP was developed as a solution for soldiers to maintain their weapons without having to carry multiple solutions. It SUCKS as a lubricant (the "C" part ... "cleaner", means it will dissolve quickly). CLP is a "jack of all trades, master of none" and I wish people would stop recommending it other than for field use.
The proper way is to clean using a CLEANING solution, then lube using a LUBRICANT. And NO, CLP is not both (it is a half assed compromise of both, doing neither well). My recommendation for proper cleaning to use a solvent (even a degreaser such as ajax will suffice) and THEN a proper lubricant (such a Mobile 1, or a synth grease). |
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You beat me to it |
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Quoted:
CLP is a "field" solution and absolutely NOT the proper (best) way to lubricate your firearm. CLP was developed as a solution for soldiers to maintain their weapons without having to carry multiple solutions. It SUCKS as a lubricant (the "C" part ... "cleaner", means it will dissolve quickly). CLP is a "jack of all trades, master of none" and I wish people would stop recommending it other than for field use. The proper way is to clean using a CLEANING solution, then lube using a LUBRICANT. And NO, CLP is not both (it is a half assed compromise of both, doing neither well). My recommendation for proper cleaning to use a solvent (even a degreaser such as ajax will suffice) and THEN a proper lubricant (such a Mobile 1, or a synth grease). It is a lubricant but please don't call it proper unless you are posting on a Chevy forum. A noob could mistake it for the truth! 
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