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Posted: 4/4/2013 6:23:58 PM EDT
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Total FNG question here...
Only shot MAYBE 700 rds through my M&P 15T (Melonite barrel) and I clean it after every trip to the range. I'm using a regular ol' Hoppe's cleaning kit. Run a patch with solvent down the barrel, let it work and after 15 mins or so, run the brush and patch out. Repeating until they come out clean. The last two times I've cleaned it, I've noticed blue/green residue on the patches but only after the 3rd or 4th pass. I'm thinking the barrel is decently clean after the 2nd pass, right? I just recently started dipping the brush in solvent before running it down the barrel. Is dipping the brush causing this? Does ammo "quality" have any effect? (Wolf vs Rem vs Federal etc...) Appreciate any feedback. (I'm just now getting into the CLP, powder blast and other "higher end" cleaners. Not looking for any opinions on which is best, there's probably 20 other threads debating that topic). 
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| Im no expert but a good copper solvent will get it out. On a new barrel i shoot it once and then clean with copper remover. When it stops coming out blue i figure its out.. Then i shoot a few more rounds and do it again. 5 rounds, do it again. 10 rounds, again. Ive had barrels stop fouling in 10 shots and barrels that fouled to almost a hundred. On a separate note, I wouldn't dip the bore brush in the solvent bottle. you're contaminating the whole bottle with crap you drug out of the dirty barrel. Im sure there are MUCH more knowledgeable people here that can chime in. You also might try the precision forum. |
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To the best of my recollection, the blue/green patches are a sign the hoppes is working on the copper fouling. The presence of copper is not necessarily bad until it affects accuracy. I usually focus on the carbon buildup while cleaning my rifles. Getting the copper out with hoppes requires patience. If you want to get rid of the majority of it, soak a patch in hoppes and run it through the barrel a couple times. Leave the solvent in the barrel overnight or for a few hours to allow the solvent to work on the substantially more stubborn copper. Run soaked patches through until they're no longer blue/green. To finish, run dry patches through the barrel to completely remove any leftover solvent. I follow up with a lightly oiled patch to prevent rust but that is optional. Unlike most copper solvents, I have read that hoppes WILL NOT harm the barrel if left in for a while.
Hope this helps Mike |
| Thanks for the help guys, much appreciated. Prior to owning my AR, I used to just run the patch and follow with the brush immediately after, no soak. I'm thinking maybe you're right that its just eating all of that stuff out of the bore. Just can't believe it came out that dark of a color. Looked like a smurf blew one one the barrel...... |
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I like the old benchrest mix of 50/50 Hoppes and Kroil. Swab the bore with that, let it sit for 15 or 30 minutes, or even overnight.. brush a few times, then dry patches. Works well for me.
If that copper is stubborn I use Barnes 10-X. Very strong ammonia based copper solvent. If that doesn't get the copper out nothing will. Just be sure and follow the directions on the bottle. |
| Check the vents around the muzzle device. I usually have the bluish/green deposits there. Also on my piston rifle there is a lot of copper deposits around/on the valves/vents/exhaust/piston (on the barrel and handgaurd around the main exhaust ports). Don't know if you hand load, but I've found that CFE 223 powder produces next to no copper deposits (or at least I haven't noticed any in the 750 rounds and 6 months since I cleaned the rifle). |
| As far as i know, those copper fouling removal solvents have a low concentration (.8 to 1.0 molarity) nitric acid or hydrochloric acid, (i forget which) Since the copper is a mich more active metal then the steel or chromium molybdenum bore; the copper fouling does a single displacement reaction with the acid and produces either cooper nitrate or copper chloride (the blue-green liquid stuff on the patches) leaving the bore unharmed. Lol, nerdyness aside, the other guys are right, if you are concerned with getting all the copper dissolved and mopping it out with some patches, your best bet is to soak the bore, run a soppy wet patch through the bore and let the chemical reaction do its thing!!! Good luck man |
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Most copper solvents are high in ammonia. Hoppes #9 is about 5% ammonia, and not nearly as strong as say Sweet's 7.62.
Hoppes will get it out eventually, but will take a while. I prefer Breakfree foaming bore cleaner over the stronger stuff. Doesn't need an open window and fan to keep the fumes manageable, and it works well. Don't dip your brush. The dirty brush will leave that dirt in the bottle contaminating the bottle and making it less effective, especially near the end of the bottle. With any copper solvent some of the green on the patches is likely from the brush if you used a bronze brush (or a brass jag) to apply the solvent. After brushing out the carbon, use a patch in/on a plastic or other non brass eyelet or jag. If you see green blue, then you know it's in the bore and not from the brush or jag. |
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