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[ARCHIVED THREAD] - Frog Lube (Page 1 of 3)
Posted: 7/11/2012 8:17:34 AM EDT
| This stuff is amazing. I have used tons of other lubricants in the past and I am impressed enough with this product to let you folks know. First off, there is no mess!!!! You can clean your guns and go inside and eat your dinner without washing your hands. You can get it on polymer frames and stocks without leaving a slick slippery surface, safe for wood finishes. It has a decent smell to it so you can use it in closed air spaces. But the big point here is it works. I have noticed much less friction in the weapons I have applied it to. The actions are smooth and feel like butter. Just wanted to tell you if you are looking for a great CLP then this stuff is it. I think I have found the magic bullet here. No, I am not a sales rep for Frog Lube but my friends say I should be as much as I have been carrying on about it. |
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Maybe there should be a FL thread tacked at the top of the page to consolidate all the recent threads.
ETA link from page two of this forum. http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_3_7/575702_FrogLube_.html |
Frog Lube is an interesting and expensive product. It's sort of like Thompson Center All Natural Lube 1000. In fact, it's so much like T/C (which has been on the market for many years), that I cannot discern a difference in texture, smell or taste (yes, I tasted them both). It is identical in all these respects. The FL paste even has the same consistency as T/C. Just FL is green, and T/C is yellow. And of course, FL is $9.99 for 4 oz, and T/C is $7.99 for 5 oz. Gonna try T/C on my AR next to another AR lubed with FL and see how they stack up. 
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Quoted:
Frog Lube is an interesting and expensive product. It's sort of like Thompson Center All Natural Lube 1000. In fact, it's so much like T/C (which has been on the market for many years), that I cannot discern a difference in texture, smell or taste (yes, I tasted them both). It is identical in all these respects. The FL paste even has the same consistency as T/C. Just FL is green, and T/C is yellow. And of course, FL is $9.99 for 4 oz, and T/C is $7.99 for 5 oz. Gonna try T/C on my AR next to another AR lubed with FL and see how they stack up.
http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l590/RowlandParks/Firearms/010-5.jpg Make sure you report back. I've always wondered if these were the same products, only with different coloring added. |
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Quoted:
Frog Lube is an interesting and expensive product. It's sort of like Thompson Center All Natural Lube 1000. In fact, it's so much like T/C (which has been on the market for many years), that I cannot discern a difference in texture, smell or taste (yes, I tasted them both). It is identical in all these respects. The FL paste even has the same consistency as T/C. Just FL is green, and T/C is yellow. And of course, FL is $9.99 for 4 oz, and T/C is $7.99 for 5 oz. Gonna try T/C on my AR next to another AR lubed with FL and see how they stack up.
http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l590/RowlandParks/Firearms/010-5.jpg Make sure you report back. I've always wondered if these were the same products, only with different coloring added. +1 here too Been using FL exclusively for a while now with excellent results, and would like to hear about the TC stuff. |
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Here’s my first test of Frog Lube and T/C Natural Lube. It's far from scientific.
As I’ve stated, I wanted to see how it stacks up against Thompson Center Natural Lube 1000, and I threw Super Lube Synthetic Grease int here for comparison, too. Here’s what I did. My control. I took a piece of aluminum foil. I cut open a shotgun shell and poured the powder contents out on a section of the foil. 
I then lit the powder. 
This was the carbon residue left behind after burning. 
I wiped the residue to see what would come off and what would be left behind. 
And checked to see what was on the paper towel. 
I was surprised how much of the powder burned and how little carbon was left behind. I anticipated that the products tested would create a barrier between the burning powder and the foil, preventing carbon from sticking to the foil. |
Okay, here’s Frog Lube.
I applied a scientific amount – “a little bit on my finger tip.” 
Coated the foil. 
Poured the powder. Another shotgun shell wasted, but it produces the same amount of powder for each trial. 
Lit the powder. 
Residue. 
Wipe. 
It was actually a bit crispy. 
Some of the Frog Lube actually burned. There was a lot more carbon left behind than was left behind on the untreated foil. Most of it seemed to be burned Frog Lube. Most of the residue wiped off leaving a little residue behind. |
Here’s Thompson Center Natural Lube 1000.
A little bit on the finger tip. 
Coated foil. 
Powder. 
Light it up. 
Residue. 
Wipe. 
There was more residue left behind than on the untreated foil. Some of the T/C actually seemed to burn. Most of what burned wiped off. Still some residue left behind on the foil even after wiping. |
Here’s Super Lube Synthetic Grease. I put it in a Tupperware bowl . It’s easier to use that way than in the cartridge tube.
Same scientific amount. 
Coat the foil. 
Pour the powder (another shotgun shell). 
Light. 
Residue. 
Wipe. 
It doesn’t appear much, if any, of the Super Lube burned. It also prevent the carbon from sticking to the foil better than either of the other two. It wiped virtually clean. Here’s the foil. Left to right: untreated, Frog Lube, T/C, Super Lube. 
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On the untreated piece of foil, the burning powder left behind carbon deposits that could scarcely be wiped off.
Frog Lube didn't protect the foil to the extent I thought it would. It melted down almost instantly. There was carbon deposits left behind that could not be wiped off. The carbon that I was able to wipe off consited mainly of burned Frog Lube. The Frog Lube directly beneath the powder was burned almost completely away leaving behind an almost crusty surface. "Wet" Frog Lube did remain around edges. What was interesting was that once the flare of the burning powder died down, a portion of the Frog lube was actually flaming. The flame died down in a second or two. T/C performed idenitically. It melted immeidately upon ignition of the powder. I did not notice the extent of "crust" that I saw with Frog Lube, but there is no doubt some of the T/C burned. The carbon I wiped off was far more than on the untreated foil. I conclude the principal portion of the carbon was burned T/C. Interestingly, the Super-Lube worked best. It did not melt at all. It didn't burn and did not add to the amount of carbon deposited following the powder burn. There was no carbon on the foil after wiping. The foil wiped clean. So far, Frog Lube and Thompson Center Natural Lube 1000 are identical in smell, feel, consistency and performed identically in my test. The only difference so far is color, and price. |
| I've always wondered about how it works when cold. The fanboys just keep repeating how it warms up when you shoot it... um yeah, how about that critical first shot? If it's that solid, it seems very, very likely to freeze up the action on a semiauto or even revolver or bolt gun. |
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The Super Lube is the Super Lube Synthetic Grease. I buy it at Ace Hardware. $9.99 for that grease-gun cartridge tube you see in the pictue. That 4 oz jar of Frog Lube $9.99. That 5 oz tube of T/C is $7.99.
It wasn't my intent to set out to prove that Frog Lube is crap. And I'm not saying it is, now. The reason I wanted to test it is for the couple of years it has been on the market, it has struck me as incredibly similar to T/C All Natural Lube. Of cource, T/C doesn't advertise its product to do all the things Frog Lube claims to do. T/C advertizes their product to be a blackpowder bullet-patch lube and a general gun protectant. (It does very well in those roles.) They don't advertise is as a general gun lubricant. Frog Lube pretty much claims to be a one-stop product for just about everything. I wanted to test Frog Lube against T/C since they seem so similar. And I wanted to throw Super Lube in their for yucks. Super Lube is the grease I prefer and I use it on all my guns. So far, I've delevoped the following opinions based on my testings and observations: 1) Frog Lube does a REASONABLE job at being a barrier between the metal and deposited carbon - but not perfect. 2) Frog Lube does burn, and you may end up with more carbon from the combination of burned powder and burned Frog Lube than you would have just from burned powder. 3) Thompson Center All Natural Lube is so similar so far in every respect (except color and price) that T/C Natural Lube is a viable subsitute for Frog Lube. 4) A good sythetic lubricant like Super Lube, is superior carbon barrier, doesn't burn or melt when exposed to burning powder, and stays more stable that Frog Lube over a wider temperature range. |
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I use it, and don't see the same results as in this test. For me everything still just wipes off, and there is no carbon left behind. Of coarse aluminum is different than steel.
The freeze test is what should bother everyone. I wonder if you follow the directions, and wipe off all the excess paste, if then it will not freeze up a bolt? Oh, and I'm not a "fan boy", as I have been using it for a while now, but not long enough to be a "fan boy". I am just asking some questions with all due respect to RowlandP's test. I am definitely going to think twice about using it in extreme cold, but I would like to see a test preformed with an actual firearm in freezing temps, and done by the instructions from froglube. RowlandP: thanks for taking the time to do this test. You got me thinking about Supper lube now 
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Rowland, you said you use the Super Lube on your guns. What do you use as a cleaner? I'm looking for a non-toxic cleaner.
Thank you! Quoted:
The Super Lube is the Super Lube Synthetic Grease. I buy it at Ace Hardware. $9.99 for that grease-gun cartridge tube you see in the pictue. That 4 oz jar of Frog Lube $9.99. That 5 oz tube of T/C is $7.99. It wasn't my intent to set out to prove that Frog Lube is crap. And I'm not saying it is, now. The reason I wanted to test it is for the couple of years it has been on the market, it has struck me as incredibly similar to T/C All Natural Lube. Of cource, T/C doesn't advertise its product to do all the things Frog Lube claims to do. T/C advertizes their product to be a blackpowder bullet-patch lube and a general gun protectant. (It does very well in those roles.) They don't advertise is as a general gun lubricant. Frog Lube pretty much claims to be a one-stop product for just about everything. I wanted to test Frog Lube against T/C since they seem so similar. And I wanted to throw Super Lube in their for yucks. Super Lube is the grease I prefer and I use it on all my guns. So far, I've delevoped the following opinions based on my testings and observations: 1) Frog Lube does a REASONABLE job at being a barrier between the metal and deposited carbon - but not perfect. 2) Frog Lube does burn, and you may end up with more carbon from the combination of burned powder and burned Frog Lube than you would have just from burned powder. 3) Thompson Center All Natural Lube is so similar so far in every respect (except color and price) that T/C Natural Lube is a viable subsitute for Frog Lube. 4) A good sythetic lubricant like Super Lube, is superior carbon barrier, doesn't burn or melt when exposed to burning powder, and stays more stable that Frog Lube over a wider temperature range. |
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I still use Hoppes #9 as a powder solvent, and BreakFree CLP as a protectant. I use Super Lube on the frame rails and exterior of the barrels on my semi-auto pistols, and I use it on my BCGs on my ARs.
BTW, my goal isn't to steer anyone away from Frog Lube. Use what you want for whatever reason you want. But I wanted to show if you want a non-toxic substance like Frog Lube, there was equally good substances, like T/C Natural Lube, that do just as good a job and cost far less. And to point out if you want a lubricant and carbon barrier for an AR, there are much better choices that cost far less. |
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On another website dedicated to the M4, Frog Lube has a mystical, cult-like following led by folks who are well respected in their knowledge of the rifle and in whom people place their trust to give advice about lubricants. Actually, some of them are Frog Lube distributors. Based on these recommendation, their members form opinions about the product and write things like this...
1. The CLP is tackier than other CLP's so it says put longer where you put it. 2. The paste is like a low melting point wax so when it heats up it liquifies, and when it cools it solidifies, so as it cools it stays where it is. 3. Non toxic Seriously? #1, Frog Lube paste isn't tackier than an NLGI-2 grease. Not even close. In my comparison with Super Lube, Super lube adheres to anyhing I've stuck it to better. #2, If you coat the BCG, for example, with Frog lube, and it melts (and it does melt down to a low viscocity oily substance) it's going to run off the surface and solidify wherever it drips, like in the trigger or hammer mechanism, rounds at the top of the magazine, or in the buffer tube. And it drips seriously. In my last video, you can see it running and it dripping on my back-deck bench when I wiped it up. What youy need is a grease that will stary where you put it, not melt, and not run off. Super Lube is head-and-shoulders above Frog Lube in that respect. #3, A food grade lubricant, like Super Lube, is non-toxic. It has to be, or it can't be food grade. I find it hard to believe people on that site will relentlessly criticize someone who buys a DPMS rifle, but turn around and write the things they do about Frog Lube. |
| Hmm…I actually ran across some of the youtube videos by accident earlier today. One of guys from one of the local tactical shops here in town (the one where most LEOs go to do their systems upgrading) was telling me about this stuff seems to be doing marginally better than traditional lubricants in the area. I'm kinda curious to try it and see how it does. Climate wise, this is a part of Texas that sees extreme climate conditions (dust storms, 19º and snowing one day/71º the next, tornados, high winds, -17º if the conditions are right) really just the most random, un-Texas like weather on the planet. I just want to see how this stuff performs. Nice to see some interesting data points so far. |
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What do you think of the Frog Lube as a gun exterior protector? I haven't tried it as an exterior protectant. But I've used T/C Natural Lube as an exterior protectant. And T/C does very well in that respect - as advertised. Since they are so similar, I suspect Frog Lube would do equally well. |
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I've always wondered about how it works when cold. The fanboys just keep repeating how it warms up when you shoot it... um yeah, how about that critical first shot? If it's that solid, it seems very, very likely to freeze up the action on a semiauto or even revolver or bolt gun. You apply it per the manual like any other arctic condition PM and it will work fine. |
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The Super Lube is the Super Lube Synthetic Grease. I buy it at Ace Hardware. $9.99 for that grease-gun cartridge tube you see in the pictue. That 4 oz jar of Frog Lube $9.99. That 5 oz tube of T/C is $7.99. It wasn't my intent to set out to prove that Frog Lube is crap. And I'm not saying it is, now. The reason I wanted to test it is for the couple of years it has been on the market, it has struck me as incredibly similar to T/C All Natural Lube. Of cource, T/C doesn't advertise its product to do all the things Frog Lube claims to do. T/C advertizes their product to be a blackpowder bullet-patch lube and a general gun protectant. (It does very well in those roles.) They don't advertise is as a general gun lubricant. Frog Lube pretty much claims to be a one-stop product for just about everything. I wanted to test Frog Lube against T/C since they seem so similar. And I wanted to throw Super Lube in their for yucks. Super Lube is the grease I prefer and I use it on all my guns. So far, I've delevoped the following opinions based on my testings and observations: 1) Frog Lube does a REASONABLE job at being a barrier between the metal and deposited carbon - but not perfect. 2) Frog Lube does burn, and you may end up with more carbon from the combination of burned powder and burned Frog Lube than you would have just from burned powder. 3) Thompson Center All Natural Lube is so similar so far in every respect (except color and price) that T/C Natural Lube is a viable subsitute for Frog Lube. 4) A good sythetic lubricant like Super Lube, is superior carbon barrier, doesn't burn or melt when exposed to burning powder, and stays more stable that Frog Lube over a wider temperature range. If you can, please prepare a similar test as this. It will be informative, as well. I am very interested in the outcome! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e3dAsxzJlug Apologies for the sound sync issue, just mute. |
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This is my test:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vc-wJCg3Ioo&feature=plcp I'll poste pictures of the quarters later. 12 o'clock: Break Free CLP 3 o'clock: SNO Universal Gun Grease 6 o'clock: Hoppe's #9 Oil 9 o'clock: Frog Lube paste I don't have the other lubes that RowlandP has to test it out, but I'll try to get them in the future and repeat the test. |
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Here you go. Sorry for the poor focus. I'm not doing it again. It smells like burned crisco in my kitchen and I've got the windows open and the fans going.
<a href="http://s1125.photobucket.com/albums/l590/RowlandParks/?action=view¤t=MyMovie.mp4" target="_blank">http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l590/RowlandParks/th_MyMovie.jpg</a> Looks like we both have a stinky kitchen to clean up now 
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| I wiped some Frog Lube under my lawn mower before I cut wet grass and grass did not stick where Frog Lube had been applied. Of course, PAM spray does just as well, but Frog Lube is good at keeping grass from sticking, too. I think Frog Lube missed its calling. |
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I'm not going to give Frog Lube anymore time. I think there are better products out there. Smelling like Blue Star (jock itch) Ointment, and being edible just isn't important with it comes to being a proper lubricant. I don't like that it melts down to a low viscosity vegatable oil in even a little bit of heat. A thin oil is not going to give the same level of lubrication as a grease that maintains its grease-consistency.
I use Super Lube on my ARs. I use it all over the bolt carrier groups, charging handle, inside the receiver. In fact, I might be accused of using too much. I put it on pretty thick. But my ARs run like scalded monkeys. And carbon does not stick. And cleanup is as simple as wiping clean. Super Lube does not run. No matter how hot you get your AR, it doesn't run. When you take it apart, there is as much there as when you put it on. The lube stays where you need it and want it. I even use it to wipe down the exterior of the barrel. Since I have, I don't get smoke coming out of my handguard like I did with Break Free. I put 220 rounds of PMC Bronze .223 55gr FMJ through my Colt SP6920 today. Granted, that's not a great amount, but it does lead to a reasonable amount of grime: 
A simple wipe down with a 8x8 inch piece of flanel cloth: 
The more I use Super Lube, the more I like it. It is odor-free. It's clear. It's non-toxic. It doesn't freeze, it doesn't melt, it doesn't burn - at least at any temperature we'll experience - unlike Frog Lube. And, unlike lubes that run off, or melt and run off, it keeps substantial lubrication between surfaces. |
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I've always wondered about how it works when cold. The fanboys just keep repeating how it warms up when you shoot it... um yeah, how about that critical first shot? If it's that solid, it seems very, very likely to freeze up the action on a semiauto or even revolver or bolt gun. You apply it per the manual like any other arctic condition PM and it will work fine. Even a thin coat is going to get hard. An oil or grease that doesn't get hard will still allow movement. Something that gets hard like this seems to, even a thin amount, will stop movement. |
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I agree. This stuff is really, realy great. My guns usually jam out six magazines. After I tried this stuff out, issue has been solved. It's shorten my cleaning time by 30 minutes too. No more scrubbing off burnt powder, now just wipe them off. If the gun is jamming, there is a problem that needs to be remedied by something other using a different lube. A firearm should be able to function with a wide variety of lubes without issue. I use Magnalube grease, and carbon wipes right off with no scrubbing or scraping required. In fact, most lubes will allow me to do that. Nothing special about that. A fairly detailed cleaning- wiping down the BCG, inside of the upper, and cleaning the barrel- takes about twenty minutes for me if I'm not rushing, so you must be doing something differently. 
If Frog Lube works, great. Use it, but to tout it as the latest and greatest miracle gun treatment seems really tacky, and the rabid support it receives does not lend credibility to the claims. |
| When I applied the frog lube the other day, I did it per instructions. What I've noticed. You can't really tell that there is any kind of lubricant on (in this case) the carrier. However, if you pick up the carrier and feel it, it is much smoother post application than pre-application. When in the rifle, charging feels exactly the same as with wet lube. At this point I think it will take some cold weather coming in to tell the difference and some more time to tell. |
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I'm not going to give Frog Lube anymore time. I think there are better products out there. Smelling like Blue Star (jock itch) Ointment, and being edible just isn't important with it comes to being a proper lubricant..... I use Super Lube on my ARs. I use it all over the bolt carrier groups, charging handle, inside the receiver. In fact, I might be accused of using too much. I put it on pretty thick. But my ARs run like scalded monkeys. And carbon does not stick. And cleanup is as simple as wiping clean....... Super Lube does not run. No matter how hot you get your AR, it doesn't run. When you take it apart, there is as much there as when you put it on. The lube stays where you need it and want it.... I even use it to wipe down the exterior of the barrel...... I use another general purpose bearing grease available off the shelf....Super Tech Moly Lube from Walmart...pretty much the same as you have mentioned using the Super Lube....with similar results. I like to use general purpose products instead of specialty products, plus they're a hell of a lot cheaper. Great testing by the way. Thanks for doing the legwork and posting your results. |
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Well lookie what I found way after order a bunch of FL after listening to the hype. I think what got me the most was the food grade idea. After years of hoppes and CLP exposure...
Now I see this. I haven't even tried the FL yet as I haven't gotten used to not using CLP. I guess my biggest question now would be the rust preventative qualities of FL. I really like the results of the SL for carbon blocking... But if there is still a chance of using the FL I would love to know. Otherwise I'll end up selling it to the fanboys. |
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Quoted: As a side bar, that is WAY too much lube on your firing pin and is simply asking for trouble.http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l590/RowlandParks/Firearms/004-11.jpg http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l590/RowlandParks/Firearms/0042-2.jpg |
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Quoted:
I'm not going to give Frog Lube anymore time. I think there are better products out there. Smelling like Blue Star (jock itch) Ointment, and being edible just isn't important with it comes to being a proper lubricant. I don't like that it melts down to a low viscosity vegatable oil in even a little bit of heat. A thin oil is not going to give the same level of lubrication as a grease that maintains its grease-consistency. I use Super Lube on my ARs. I use it all over the bolt carrier groups, charging handle, inside the receiver. In fact, I might be accused of using too much. I put it on pretty thick. But my ARs run like scalded monkeys. And carbon does not stick. And cleanup is as simple as wiping clean. Super Lube does not run. No matter how hot you get your AR, it doesn't run. When you take it apart, there is as much there as when you put it on. The lube stays where you need it and want it. I even use it to wipe down the exterior of the barrel. Since I have, I don't get smoke coming out of my handguard like I did with Break Free. I put 220 rounds of PMC Bronze .223 55gr FMJ through my Colt SP6920 today. Granted, that's not a great amount, but it does lead to a reasonable amount of grime: http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l590/RowlandParks/Firearms/004-11.jpg http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l590/RowlandParks/Firearms/0042-2.jpg A simple wipe down with a 8x8 inch piece of flanel cloth: http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l590/RowlandParks/Firearms/006-10.jpg The more I use Super Lube, the more I like it. It is odor-free. It's clear. It's non-toxic. It doesn't freeze, it doesn't melt, it doesn't burn - at least at any temperature we'll experience - unlike Frog Lube. And, unlike lubes that run off, or melt and run off, it keeps substantial lubrication between surfaces. This^. I have been using Super Lube for some time now. Works better than anything else I have tried and it's good to 450 degrees. Good stuff... |
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Well lookie what I found way after order a bunch of FL after listening to the hype. I think what got me the most was the food grade idea. After years of hoppes and CLP exposure... Now I see this. I haven't even tried the FL yet as I haven't gotten used to not using CLP. I guess my biggest question now would be the rust preventative qualities of FL. I really like the results of the SL for carbon blocking... But if there is still a chance of using the FL I would love to know. Otherwise I'll end up selling it to the fanboys. I used the liquid FL all this summer, and never had any trouble with it. I fired from 300 to 800 rds at a time with it. I agree with Rowland about the paste FL, and all the hype on it or any of these lubes., but for me the liquid FL has been outstanding. I even took some after reading this thread, and put a dab of it on a piece of steel in my freezer for over 24 hours, and It was still loose, and slick when I swooshed it around with my finger. It also stays where you put it. The paste sucked, and was like putting grease on it, and there is no way I am ever putting grease or anything like it in my AR 
I'm my opinion this whole lube comparing thing in this maintenance forum is a friggin joke anyway. Just use what doesn't cause you any problems or malfunctions, and you will be fine. |
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Just recently switched over to F.L. for my AR.
Also started using on my Glock, Sig, KelTec. I've done two applications on the AR, with approx. 100 rounds thru it, between applications. Used the paste with heat, after cleaning it with the liquid. Everything wiped off very easy. I plan on using it on all of my guns now. |
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Decided to give the paste a try while doing a dis & ass on the 870. I have to say putting some on the pump arms/channel and other friction spots... the action is slick as hell. I should have broken out the liquid for the trigger area, but used CLP... old habits die hard.
I'd still like to know the rust preventative capabilities this stuff really has. |
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Quoted:
Decided to give the paste a try while doing a dis & ass on the 870. I have to say putting some on the pump arms/channel and other friction spots... the action is slick as hell. I should have broken out the liquid for the trigger area, but used CLP... old habits die hard. I'd still like to know the rust preventative capabilities this stuff really has. I thought about throwing it on one of my 870s last time I had one apart. Problem was, I had my Wingmaster apart last. In 10 years I have not found another 870 as smooth as that Wingmaster. I'll have to wait to take my Express apart (which isn't very often since I still shoot the Wingmaster more) and see how that smooths things up in comparison to the Wingmaster. |
[ARCHIVED THREAD] - Frog Lube (Page 1 of 3)
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