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Posted: 9/20/2011 4:27:25 PM EDT
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What all solutions are you guys that run Ultrasonic cleaners using? I'm looking for a one shot, clean/lube deal that is reusable. I've noticed a lot of this stuff is expensive so using it then throwing it out after every use isn't exactly something I wanna do. Is there a way to filter it clean again, or what?
Just looking for some ideas here. Thanks |
I asked this question a few months back and didn't get many replies. 
I've been using odorless mineral spirits. It does a pretty good job especially if you do a quick brushing of the parts prior to putting them in cleaner. However, the metal will be bone dry when you take the parts out. After I take the parts out and wipe them off I hit them with a quick shot of RemOil, wipe them down, then properly lube the firearm. |
| It removes the oils from the guns. My AR's bolts and bolt carriers come out a real light gray. Oil them up and they look like new. I can't say about standard blued guns. The only things I've put in my ultrasonic are my Glocks and AR parts. The plastic Glock frames come out white. Once again, a shot of RemOil and things are back to normal. |
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There is one cleaner-lubricant that works well and and lasts a long time.
That's Cylinder & Slide Shops "Dunk-Kit" solution. This is a cleaner that does a good job of cleaning the gun, then leaves a thin coat of lubricant to prevent rust. I'd still recommend using a different lubricant on key parts. Unlike most other straight cleaners, you don't have to rinse it off, dry the gun, then apply lubricant. It's a one-shot product that does it all. Dunk-Kit is expensive, but it lasts a long time. If you dump the dirty solution back in the bucket the dirt will settle to the bottom. Another trick is to pour the used solution into another bucket, using a filter to filter out the dirt. You just keep transferring the solution back and forth until it's used up. Make sure the filter you use doesn't filter out the lubricant. http://www.cylinder-slide.com/index.php?app=ccp0&ns=catshow&ref=Dunk Mineral spirits or ordinary cheap paint thinner is a good degreaser that won't harm bluing. It does a fair job of cleaning, but like most cleaners, it has no effect on copper fouling, and not a lot of effect on carbon fouling. One trick with ultrasonics is to put an inch or so of water in the tank, then stand plastic, glass, or metal containers in the solution. The ultrasonics are transmitted through the containers, This allows using small amounts of highly flammable solvents like acetone or lacquer thinner to clean small parts. Neither will harm bluing, parkerizing, or plated finishes. Note however, that most cleaners in ultrasonic tanks will remove painted sight marks and safety marking paint eventually or instantly, depending on the solvent used. For badly carboned parts like AK muzzle brakes and gas pistons, or AR bolts and bolt carriers, you can use a carbon cutter like Slip 2000 or an automotive type AS LONG as it won't attack the finish on the part. Since these usually work with a 15 minute soak, it may not be worth the time to use the ultrasonic tank. For these, the water in the tank and small jars work very well. |
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I use dunk-it and it works well. It is a petroleum based cleaner which is why you don't need to re-oil everything. Most of the standard US cleaner fluids are water based.
It will do most of the job for you, it's not as effective on the interior of the barrel though. |
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