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1/10/2011 8:48:45 PM EDT
Just wondering how to keep the trigger group running top notch and free of debris. Thanks.
1/11/2011 4:40:39 AM EDT
[#1]
I disassemble mine every 400 or so rounds.  I take it and clean it with carb cleaner, then blow dry it with compressed air.  Finally I put CLP on the contact areas and reassemble it.  I know I am OCD but that is the way I do it.
1/11/2011 4:47:10 AM EDT
[#2]
I just clean the FCG the best I can with q-tips, it really doesn't get that dirty.
1/11/2011 7:54:18 AM EDT
[#3]
Blow it out
1/11/2011 2:51:03 PM EDT
[#4]
400 rds is OCD for sure.  I've got something like 30k on one of my RRs and have never pulled the FCG.  BTW, most of that 30k is the dirtiest BB Wolf.  I do inspect for wear on the hammer/disco surfaces.  And I check spring tension against another NIB RR.  

Q-tips and CLP for the most part is all you need.  Every 10k I spray the snot out of it with Brake cleaner, then relube.  Even the TM says not to pull the FCG for anything like routine maintenance.  That is a great way to put wear on the pin holes.

Sam
1/11/2011 4:34:15 PM EDT
[#5]
Quoted:
400 rds is OCD for sure.  I've got something like 30k on one of my RRs and have never pulled the FCG.  BTW, most of that 30k is the dirtiest BB Wolf.  I do inspect for wear on the hammer/disco surfaces.  And I check spring tension against another NIB RR.  

Q-tips and CLP for the most part is all you need.  Every 10k I spray the snot out of it with Brake cleaner, then relube.  Even the TM says not to pull the FCG for anything like routine maintenance.  That is a great way to put wear on the pin holes.

Sam


It does not ware them... as long as you take them out straight.
1/11/2011 5:15:33 PM EDT
[#6]
Quoted:
It does not ware them... as long as you take them out straight.


Technically, correct in a perfect world.  Problem is:  real people in an imperfect world don't take them out straight.  People in the real world sometimes hurry, sometimes use force, sometimes don't have a proper sized punch, sometimes don't center the punch, sometimes screw up the position of spring legs on reassembly so pins can walk, etc., etc.

There's a reason the TM says not to do this as part of routine maint.  Maybe they know something about imperfect people.

Of course, we're all perfect, so.............  

Sam



1/12/2011 3:02:08 AM EDT
[#7]
Quoted:
Just wondering how to keep the trigger group running top notch and free of debris. Thanks.


Dont over lube and the lower will stay clean. A few swipes with a q-tip and a dab of grease on the contact points call it a day.
1/12/2011 9:43:16 AM EDT
[#8]
A little CLP and some compressed air.

good as it needs to be.
1/12/2011 2:37:09 PM EDT
[#9]
Quoted:
Quoted:
It does not ware them... as long as you take them out straight.


Technically, correct in a perfect world.  Problem is:  real people in an imperfect world don't take them out straight.  People in the real world sometimes hurry, sometimes use force, sometimes don't have a proper sized punch, sometimes don't center the punch, sometimes screw up the position of spring legs on reassembly so pins can walk, etc., etc.

There's a reason the TM says not to do this as part of routine maint.  Maybe they know something about imperfect people.

Of course, we're all perfect, so.............  

Sam





I am not saying that I am perfect... I use anti walk pins anyways.
1/15/2011 7:58:42 PM EDT
[#10]
In the Army we always just cleaned them in the sink with hot water.  Seriously.  Water that's almost scalding hot will wash any debris out and when you remove it and shake out the excess,  the rest evaporates in short order.
1/16/2011 11:19:27 AM EDT
[#11]
As the armorer for my department, I will just spray them out with CLP once a year and then wipe it out with Q-tips and then finish with compressed air.  

There is never that much dirt in there to begin with.
1/17/2011 1:39:46 PM EDT
[#12]
I use a dry 1" paint brush when needed and CLP with a q-tip.
1/20/2011 6:04:54 AM EDT
[#13]
I give the FCG a Mark 1 Eyeball check after every shooting session. If gritty and/or full of carbon, it gets a blast of Beechwood Casey
Gun Cleaner, then a shot of compressed air and Q-Tips, if necessary, to remove any residue. Then a light amount of CLP on a Q-Tip to lube
important contact areas, then a function check to make sure all is OK. In BCT in 1970 they advised us to leave the FCG alone as long as nothing
was broken, badly worn, etc. That advice has served me well for 40 years, so I continue to follow it.
As previously noted, it's not an area that takes well to frequent disassembly/assembly. I've had my current DPMS for 8 years, have never
fussed with it, and all is well.
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