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[ARCHIVED THREAD] - Mobil 1 users (Page 1 of 2)
Posted: 8/14/2010 1:42:44 PM EDT
| Does anyone use Mobil 1 on other firearms or just your ARs? |
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I''ve used it extensively on auto pistols ranging from Browning Hi Powers and FEG and FM clones, Smith M4006's and M5906's, CZ 75's and 85's in both 9mm and .40 caliber, a CZ 40B .40, and three Bersa Thunder Nine 9mm's, as well as a CZ Kadett .22 conversion kit. I usually use 0W20 or 5W20.
I'm currently experimenting with using Mobil 1 0W40 on my AR's. MM |
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Does anyone use Mobil 1 on other firearms or just your ARs? Mobil 1 20w50VTWIN on everything...ARs, AKs, Glocks, HKs, S&Ws, Rugers, all of my hunting rifles (Tikkas, Remingtons and Winchesters)....everything. You are not limited to M1 either. RedLine, Amsoil, Royal Purple, Eneos, Castrol (I am sure that I missed some more) are all good choices for the application. Lots of good alternatives out there. |
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Agree. In addition to Mobil 1 I've had very good results in all of these applications with 10W30 Castrol Syntec, which is what I use in my vehicles. Mobil 1 is wonderful stuff, but I don't know that it really has an advantage over other synthetic motor oils in lubricating guns for normal recreational use. The Syntec has gotten my Avalanche past a hundred thousand miles and it still runs great and uses no more oil than when it was new. So you'd have difficulty convincing me the Syntec isn't also a lubricant of the highest order. That's a conclusion that will prolly get me thrown out of here, but it's based on experience.
MM |
| I read a bunch of threads on here awhile back about using Mobile 1 motor oil and bought a quart to give it a try.I used it on several rifles and darned if it don't work just fine.Now, if there is a way to make that "smells like ass" smell go away.I wonder if a few or several drops of cinnamon or vanilla oil would help with that yet still allow it to do what it did before. |
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I use it on other things, too, but...
You need to understand the reasons why grease is better in -very- specific places. Again, AR or not, most weapons will have both places that grease will work better, and places where the last thing you want is grease. My AR gets both. |
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I use it on other things, too, but... You need to understand the reasons why grease is better in -very- specific places. Again, AR or not, most weapons will have both places that grease will work better, and places where the last thing you want is grease. My AR gets both. Same goes for me. A little Plastilube goes a long way in certain areas. |
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Just really started putting the Mobil 15W50 full synthetic through its paces - 850rnds, 1 1/2 hours in 85 degree heat...this stuff is awesome! Few months ago I was swearing by wheel bearing grease, but after my experience today - no failures of any kind and the bolt/carrier after shooting today, looked as wet as when I lubed it two weeks ago. Some still slips through the trigger pin holes and such - but its a minor gripe. Stays put, doesn't burn off, easier clean up... I've used it on my Walther P99 - 450 rounds two days ago - same results. Figure this stuff will treat 90% of my firearms - the Garand and such will still get the ear wax grease. |
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Why not other motor oils ?
like GTX etc! Theres better motor oils out there! I think almost ANY OIL with in reason can be used to run a clean AR15 That being said I never had a problem with the OLD BF CLP and shooting 500rds I cant think of a SHTF situation that I would run 500rds in my M4 Heck after 500rds Im bored of shooting 
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Quoted: Why not other motor oils ? like GTX etc! Theres better motor oils out there! I think almost ANY OIL with in reason can be used to run a clean AR15 That being said I never had a problem with the OLD BF CLP and shooting 500rds I cant think of a SHTF situation that I would run 500rds in my M4 Heck after 500rds Im bored of shooting http://www.royalpurple.com/gun-oil.html |
| Redline oil is probably the best oil you can get. It is a group 5 synthetic and is honestly overkill for engines in terms of its properties. That being said, it only costs $1-$2 more per quart then the other group 4 synthetics such as Amsoil and Royal Purple so I don't really have a problem buying it. |
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M1 High Mileage 10W30 has very little (if any) viscosity improver and a higher amount of anti-wear along with a very nice poor point. It's the off the shelf oil I would use. Redline and ACD from Amsoil would be even better. I still use Weapon Shield. Tempest, Glad you mentioned the M1 "High Mileage" product. Have wondered what the significant difference(s) is/are between the more "standard" M1 products (e.g. the high mileage one) and the more frequently recommended motorcycle oils ... i.e. the 10W-40 Racing 4T, and the 20W-50 V-Twin products. Would be interested in your opinion on why most M1 folks seem to favor the motorcycle oils for use on firearms and why you suggest the high mileage oil instead ... Thanks. |
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Would be interested in your opinion on why most M1 folks seem to favor the motorcycle oils for use on firearms and why you suggest the high mileage oil instead ...
Largely for the same reasons. They have higher levels of conventional metallic Anti-Wear additives. Most all motor oils contain Viscosity Index Improver (polymer) that aid in pumping when VERY cold but these are not good for boundary lubrication as is found on guns. That is why you should always use a motor oil with the least spread (10W30 vs. 5W30) on guns. Synthetic oils will contain even less of these. The M1 10W30 HM has specifications that stand out from most other off the shelf oils. I use Weapon Shield because it contains large amounts of an Extreme Pressure additive (for boundary lubrication) that NO motor oil will contain. It's base oil is also better for cleaning than is motor oil. |
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I don't understand why people use engine oil on their weapons there are great synthetic gun lubricants out there. sure there are, but at 5 bucks a quart ?... that's why people do it This. Show me a weapon specific lube that is $5 a qt that works as well and I will give it a try. I used breakfree CLP for many years, its what we used in the army so I figured it was the best. It works well, it just doesnt stay wet as long as Mobil 1. |
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Would be interested in your opinion on why most M1 folks seem to favor the motorcycle oils for use on firearms and why you suggest the high mileage oil instead ...
Largely for the same reasons. They have higher levels of conventional metallic Anti-Wear additives. Most all motor oils contain Viscosity Index Improver (polymer) that aid in pumping when VERY cold but these are not good for boundary lubrication as is found on guns. That is why you should always use a motor oil with the least spread (10W30 vs. 5W30) on guns. Synthetic oils will contain even less of these. The M1 10W30 HM has specifications that stand out from most other off the shelf oils. I use Weapon Shield because it contains large amounts of an Extreme Pressure additive (for boundary lubrication) that NO motor oil will contain. It's base oil is also better for cleaning than is motor oil. |
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Would be interested in your opinion on why most M1 folks seem to favor the motorcycle oils for use on firearms and why you suggest the high mileage oil instead ...
Largely for the same reasons. They have higher levels of conventional metallic Anti-Wear additives. Most all motor oils contain Viscosity Index Improver (polymer) that aid in pumping when VERY cold but these are not good for boundary lubrication as is found on guns. That is why you should always use a motor oil with the least spread (10W30 vs. 5W30) on guns. Synthetic oils will contain even less of these. The M1 10W30 HM has specifications that stand out from most other off the shelf oils. I use Weapon Shield because it contains large amounts of an Extreme Pressure additive (for boundary lubrication) that NO motor oil will contain. It's base oil is also better for cleaning than is motor oil. Very interesting ... Thanks. 
Any thoughts on the M1 "Extended Performance" line vs. the HM or motorcycle stuff ? |
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Would be interested in your opinion on why most M1 folks seem to favor the motorcycle oils for use on firearms and why you suggest the high mileage oil instead ...
Largely for the same reasons. They have higher levels of conventional metallic Anti-Wear additives. Most all motor oils contain Viscosity Index Improver (polymer) that aid in pumping when VERY cold but these are not good for boundary lubrication as is found on guns. That is why you should always use a motor oil with the least spread (10W30 vs. 5W30) on guns. Synthetic oils will contain even less of these. The M1 10W30 HM has specifications that stand out from most other off the shelf oils. I use Weapon Shield because it contains large amounts of an Extreme Pressure additive (for boundary lubrication) that NO motor oil will contain. It's base oil is also better for cleaning than is motor oil. So M1 5W20 would be better or is the 20 too low? |
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M1 High Mileage 10W30 has very little (if any) viscosity improver and a higher amount of anti-wear along with a very nice poor point. It's the off the shelf oil I would use. Redline and ACD from Amsoil would be even better. I still use Weapon Shield. Tempest, Glad you mentioned the M1 "High Mileage" product. Have wondered what the significant difference(s) is/are between the more "standard" M1 products (e.g. the high mileage one) and the more frequently recommended motorcycle oils ... i.e. the 10W-40 Racing 4T, and the 20W-50 V-Twin products. Would be interested in your opinion on why most M1 folks seem to favor the motorcycle oils for use on firearms and why you suggest the high mileage oil instead ... Thanks. "High mileage" oils usually contain more seal conditioner additives. Some may contain more detergents/dispersants and some may contain less (why dislodge years of dirt and deposits on high mileage engines and cause leaks?). "Motorcycle oils" contain less anti-friction additives and/or different anti-friction additives to be wet-clutch friendly. |
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So M1 5W20 would be better or is the 20 too low? Keep in mind the "20" is at 100C (212F). At room temperature a synthetic 0w, 5w, and 10w are pretty close to each other. They really only start to be different below freezing and really different below 0. Now, having said that. How hot are the areas you're lubing? Keep in mind "20" and "30" are ranges (20 is 5.6 cSt to 9.3 and 30 is 9.4 cSt to 12.5 cSt). So depending on the brand and oil an xw30 may be twice as thick at 212F as another xw20. Most synthetics contain very little polymer VII. AMSOIL's 10w30 has none. I think the 5w30 may have some, the 0w30 is VII last I knew. I'm not sure about the Mobil1 line. This is the great thing about blending PAO basestocks to achieve the desired viscosity. But, in all honesty, I doubt any AR is going to produce the shearing forces requires to lose viscosity and as often as firearms should be cleaned it wouldn't matter anyways. Keep in mind a 5w30 might shear down to a 5w20 over 3000 to 5000 miles (even at 60 miles an hour that's 83.3 hours and 9996000 engine revolutions) in a car operating at 190F for oil temps (for every 20 degrees the rate of oxidation doubles) and being constantly sheared in the bearings and rings. Compared to that lubing an AR is easy street especially if the firearm is cleaned and relubed regularly. |
[ARCHIVED THREAD] - Mobil 1 users (Page 1 of 2)
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