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[ARCHIVED THREAD] - lube question ..... (Page 1 of 2)
Posted: 6/20/2009 1:21:23 PM EDT
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what do you guys use to keep your weapons wet ? is there anything out there thaty seems to work good for everything ?
what are your thoughts on using Rem oil [stuff with the yellow cap] and a general purpose cleaner/lubricant for both ar15 rifles and pistols ? any suggestions for a better product would be great. |
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I use Break-Free CLP as a basic all purpose lube, and Break-Free LP for the bolt and carrier.
ETA: When it comes to the topic of lubes, you'll get various responses as to who thinks what is best. I use Break-Free products because that is what I was introduced to almost 25 years ago in the military. It's stood the test of time, is still the military main small arms lube, and has yet to let me down. Others will say different. |
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sounds like its some good stuff...i'll pick some up and give it a try... iv hade pretty good luck with the remmy oil with teflon Look for the liquid bottled CLP. I find it better for lubing than the aerosol canned CLP, which seems a bit thinner. The thinner aerosol canned CLP I like to use for cleaning. |
| You can't go wrong with Breakfree CLP. Seen more people complain REM Oil is low quality, than Breakfree CLP, but I've never used REM Oil, and it could just be all talk. I'm sure REM Oil will do just fine, if you keep the weapon clean and keep it freshly oil, BUT, Personally I think CLP has the longest track record with the military using it and is a quality oil, that is why I use it. |
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I also use BF-CLP.
I have a bit of experience with ARs (general recreational shooting only) and the few times I have seen any other folks haveing any lube related problems it is that they have just plain not used any or very little. It has never been an issue that they used brand X or brand Y. Pick a brand––use it |
| Used Break-Free for years with great results. Just picked up a bottle of Slip2000 EWL. Lubed up our ARs and you can feel a difference, everythinhg seems smoother. My son shot 3 Gun today and his rifle stayed wet and worked very well. Limited experience seem to indicate it might be a superior product. |
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I use rem oil just for basic oiling, like the out side of the barrel, sights, ect. It's a decent oil but I sure would use something else on the bolt and carrier. I bought a bunch of mil-tec back when it first came out and I like that oil. I normally clean my ar after 2 trips to the range and most trips are 300 to 500 rds and I never have a problem as far as lube goes. I have used CLP also and it's a good product.
I have enough miltec to last me at least 10 years at the rate I'm using it so I'll be sticking with it for the forseeable future. |
| Remoil is ligt weight and at best a rust barrier. It doesnt do well in high volume of fire weapons, it is too thin and flies off quick. I have 2 favorite lubes- depending on application/ environment- strike hold is an excellent wet lube, it sticks good and doesnt make too much of a mess, and works well inside and outside the gun. For sandy/dusty environments- afg., iraq, syria, arizona- dont laugh- auto zone white lithiun grease, applied SPARINGLY to the bolt carrier group and the trigger spring with a q-tip. As far as the outside- like I said, either strike hold or krylon tan paint, insuring of course it stays only on the OUTSIDE and off of all lenses and sight adjustments. |
| Rem Oil is good for wiping down your hunting rifle at the end of the season, but I don't think it is the kind of lube that the AR need to keep running when hot and dirty. I have used Breakfree for many years and love the stuff. I have recently switched to slip 2000 because it is non toxic and so far am pretty happy with it. I don't think it cleans as well as Breakfree though. |
| The area I live in we have a lot of humid days throughout the year and Rem oil doesn't seem to last very long. Plus the Rem oil has Teflon in it, don't want to get any on a trigger mechanism. I know several guys that have used it on their hunting rifles (bolt actions) and when they flipped the safety to fire KABOOM without even touching the trigger. I've seen it happen three times I can think of with friends and family while varmint hunting. |
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The area I live in we have a lot of humid days throughout the year and Rem oil doesn't seem to last very long. Plus the Rem oil has Teflon in it, don't want to get any on a trigger mechanism. I know several guys that have used it on their hunting rifles (bolt actions) and when they flipped the safety to fire KABOOM without even touching the trigger. I've seen it happen three times I can think of with friends and family while varmint hunting. I'd say yall better have a good gunsmith take a look at the FCG in the weapons. Ive used TW25B and Tetra grease on my FCG for years and never had a problem related to its PTFE content....which is considerable as the body of the TW25B and Tetra is PTFE and is so that it increases the viscosity to the point that its called a grease.Not to mention the fact that Break Free had PTFE,enough so to make a sludge before shaking,in it for many many years and Ive never seen any reports related to what you speak of. Not to mention the fact that Rem oil is anything but slick....mostly solvent actually.Check the MSDS. I have seen poorly made or worn parts cause issues,but thats it. Like I said yall better get the FCG looked at as it sounds as if yall have a serious safety concern.. |
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The area I live in we have a lot of humid days throughout the year and Rem oil doesn't seem to last very long. Plus the Rem oil has Teflon in it, don't want to get any on a trigger mechanism. I know several guys that have used it on their hunting rifles (bolt actions) and when they flipped the safety to fire KABOOM without even touching the trigger. I've seen it happen three times I can think of with friends and family while varmint hunting. I'd say yall better have a good gunsmith take a look at the FCG in the weapons. Ive used TW25B and Tetra grease on my FCG for years and never had a problem related to its PTFE content....which is considerable as the body of the TW25B and Tetra is PTFE and is so that it increases the viscosity to the point that its called a grease.Not to mention the fact that Break Free had PTFE,enough so to make a sludge before shaking,in it for many many years and Ive never seen any reports related to what you speak of. Not to mention the fact that Rem oil is anything but slick....mostly solvent actually.Check the MSDS. I have seen poorly made or worn parts cause issues,but thats it. Like I said yall better get the FCG looked at as it sounds as if yall have a serious safety concern.. +1 |
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Any thoughts about Hoppes Solvent and Oil? Hoppe's No.9 has been my go to solvent for well over 25 years...so yeah I think its good to go.Probably one of the safest solvents out there for the weapon,and a very mild copper solvent.Slow but safe and effective on the parts. The Hoppe's oil is nothing but a mineral base stock with average ability to lubricate and protect.Tends to flash off under intense heat.Will certainly do in a pinch but thats the only use I would have for the oil. |
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The area I live in we have a lot of humid days throughout the year and Rem oil doesn't seem to last very long. Plus the Rem oil has Teflon in it, don't want to get any on a trigger mechanism. I know several guys that have used it on their hunting rifles (bolt actions) and when they flipped the safety to fire KABOOM without even touching the trigger. I've seen it happen three times I can think of with friends and family while varmint hunting. You are saying Rem Oil caused an accidental discharge in a bolt action rifle? 
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The semi-auto No.9 seems to have a higher flash point,as such leaves less solvent residue.In other words its not as oily.IMHO its not nearly as good of a solvent as the old standard No.9 as it tends to evaporate off rather than soak into the fouling in my experience.So I have no use for it.
As most know,Hoppe's No.9 is not very aggressive,and works best if given time to soak and work. |
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Rem-oil doesn't lubricate well, as it has a very high solvent content. It does work well as a solvent for hosing down parts. CLP is much slicker after the solvent evaporates than Rem-Oil is when wet.
I'm using Breakfree LP on my bolt and carrier now. Didn't have any problems with CLP, but it tended to weep out all over the place while standing up in the safe. LP pretty much stays put where you apply it. Bolt carrier wipes clean with a paper towel after shooting, so I don't see a need for anything different. |
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For rusted bolts yes. It is more of a penetrating solvent than gun oil.
Ingredients from MSDS/Label ChemicalCAS No / Unique IDPercent o-Dichlorobenzene000095-50-10-1 Stoddard solvent008052-41-320-30 Hydrotreated heavy naphthenic distillate solvent extract064742-52-570-80 |
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For rusted bolts yes. It is more of a penetrating solvent than gun oil. Ingredients from MSDS/Label ChemicalCAS No / Unique IDPercent o-Dichlorobenzene000095-50-10-1 Stoddard solvent008052-41-320-30 Hydrotreated heavy naphthenic distillate solvent extract064742-52-570-80 I gotcha............thanks! 
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I've just started testing a gun lube mixture of 3 parts mobil 1 -to- 1 part Lucas Synthetic Heavy Duty Oil Stabilizer.
This creates a pure synthetic lube that has increased lubricity over just mobil 1 but yet retains the resistance to thermal breakdown. Simply stated, it stays put, won't break down with heat, and is super slippery. My action is buttery smooth now. Even used it on my AK. 100% improvement over straight oil. Mix a little up and give it a try... |
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Any thoughts about Hoppes Solvent and Oil? Hoppe's No.9 has been my go to solvent for well over 25 years...so yeah I think its good to go.Probably one of the safest solvents out there for the weapon,and a very mild copper solvent. Slow but safe and effective on the parts. <snip> Another question, How much of your use of the Hoppes No.9 solvent, during that extended period of time, has been applied to chrome lined bores ... (if that makes sense) ? The main question being ... have you ever had any problems or "issues" arise from use of No.9 in chrome lined applications ... 
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I've just started testing a gun lube mixture of 3 parts mobil 1 -to- 1 part Lucas Synthetic Heavy Duty Oil Stabilizer. This creates a pure synthetic lube that has increased lubricity over just mobil 1 but yet retains the resistance to thermal breakdown. Simply stated, it stays put, won't break down with heat, and is super slippery. My action is buttery smooth now. Even used it on my AK. 100% improvement over straight oil. Mix a little up and give it a try... You would be a lot better off with an oil / grease combo. The lucas should be left on the shelf. |
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I've just started testing a gun lube mixture of 3 parts mobil 1 -to- 1 part Lucas Synthetic Heavy Duty Oil Stabilizer. This creates a pure synthetic lube that has increased lubricity over just mobil 1 but yet retains the resistance to thermal breakdown. Simply stated, it stays put, won't break down with heat, and is super slippery. My action is buttery smooth now. Even used it on my AK. 100% improvement over straight oil. Mix a little up and give it a try... You would be a lot better off with an oil / grease combo. The lucas should be left on the shelf. I am intrigued! Is the Lucas garbage? That stuff is so damn expensive! |
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I've just started testing a gun lube mixture of 3 parts mobil 1 -to- 1 part Lucas Synthetic Heavy Duty Oil Stabilizer. This creates a pure synthetic lube that has increased lubricity over just mobil 1 but yet retains the resistance to thermal breakdown. Simply stated, it stays put, won't break down with heat, and is super slippery. My action is buttery smooth now. Even used it on my AK. 100% improvement over straight oil. Mix a little up and give it a try... You would be a lot better off with an oil / grease combo. The lucas should be left on the shelf. Based on what facts? |
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I've just started testing a gun lube mixture of 3 parts mobil 1 -to- 1 part Lucas Synthetic Heavy Duty Oil Stabilizer. This creates a pure synthetic lube that has increased lubricity over just mobil 1 but yet retains the resistance to thermal breakdown. Simply stated, it stays put, won't break down with heat, and is super slippery. My action is buttery smooth now. Even used it on my AK. 100% improvement over straight oil. Mix a little up and give it a try... You would be a lot better off with an oil / grease combo. The lucas should be left on the shelf. I am intrigued! Is the Lucas garbage? That stuff is so damn expensive! I searched the internet about it, and heard nothing but good about it except for a person who calls himself "Bob The Oil Guy". Turns out he is an Amsoil rep. Figures. 
All I know Is that I've been a mechanic for many years, and when building engines, I have always used "Power Punch" or "STP" when installing pistons, rings, crank main bearings, or rod journal bearings, new cam assemblies, etc. because of the increased lubricity over straight oil alone. All the mechanics I've ever known.. same. I just applied this thinking and found a synthetic type of oil additive that many, many people had good things to say about. Add it to a great synthetic oil like Mobil 1.... Sounded like a good idea. It IS way slicker than Mobil 1 alone. Fact. So I'm trying it. Face it, for the average dude who works all week the goes out and shoots a couple hundred rounds, cleans the rifle and starts a new week, the rifle would probably function lubed with baby lotion, I wouldn't recommend it,
But for what I do, The amount I shoot, being I already notice an improvement in my action, I might be on to something... So I'm trying it. I see no flaw in my logic so far..
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[ARCHIVED THREAD] - lube question ..... (Page 1 of 2)
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