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4/21/2009 5:12:59 AM EDT
So I bought a bottle of this stuff to use solely for lubing purposes since so many people here seem to love it, and I  have to say that I am a little surprised at how thin it is, it seems even thinner than Breakfree CLP, and i just wonder how well it actually stays put?  Until now I have been using a local product to lube my BCG, it's pretty thick and stays where you put it.
4/21/2009 11:47:47 AM EDT
[#1]
Quoted:
So I bought a bottle of this stuff to use solely for lubing purposes since so many people here seem to love it, and I  have to say that I am a little surprised at how thin it is, it seems even thinner than Breakfree CLP, and i just wonder how well it actually stays put?  Until now I have been using a local product to lube my BCG, it's pretty thick and stays where you put it.


I use it but agree it is a bit thin. I like the regular Slip 2000 CLp thickness better. With that said the EWL does not dry up and stays put far longer then Breakfree. Try the EWL 30 or 50 which is MUCH thicker.
4/21/2009 12:36:43 PM EDT
[#2]
Quoted:
Quoted:
So I bought a bottle of this stuff to use solely for lubing purposes since so many people here seem to love it, and I  have to say that I am a little surprised at how thin it is, it seems even thinner than Breakfree CLP, and i just wonder how well it actually stays put?  Until now I have been using a local product to lube my BCG, it's pretty thick and stays where you put it.


I use it but agree it is a bit thin. I like the regular Slip 2000 CLp thickness better. With that said the EWL does not dry up and stays put far longer then Breakfree. Try the EWL 30 or 50 which is MUCH thicker.


What's this, I though there was only one type?
4/21/2009 6:14:23 PM EDT
[#3]
EWL is one of two types of oil that Slip 2000 offers.  I really like Slip 2000 Gun Lube, which has a nice consistency, cleans up real well after firing hundreds of rounds with the Slip 725 Degreaser and is rated to 750 degrees which is plenty for anyone not shooting full auto.
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
So I bought a bottle of this stuff to use solely for lubing purposes since so many people here seem to love it, and I  have to say that I am a little surprised at how thin it is, it seems even thinner than Breakfree CLP, and i just wonder how well it actually stays put?  Until now I have been using a local product to lube my BCG, it's pretty thick and stays where you put it.


I use it but agree it is a bit thin. I like the regular Slip 2000 CLp thickness better. With that said the EWL does not dry up and stays put far longer then Breakfree. Try the EWL 30 or 50 which is MUCH thicker.


What's this, I though there was only one type?


4/22/2009 6:41:59 PM EDT
[#4]
I really could not understand what the difference between the two is after visiting their website. Can anyone who has used both explain the actual difference. See, I gathered that the EWL would be thicker since it was for "extreme" hard use. Being thinner goes opposite of what I imagined. This is part of the reason I have not bought any because I can't decide which one to get.
4/22/2009 8:34:11 PM EDT
[#5]
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
So I bought a bottle of this stuff to use solely for lubing purposes since so many people here seem to love it, and I  have to say that I am a little surprised at how thin it is, it seems even thinner than Breakfree CLP, and i just wonder how well it actually stays put?  Until now I have been using a local product to lube my BCG, it's pretty thick and stays where you put it.


I use it but agree it is a bit thin. I like the regular Slip 2000 CLp thickness better. With that said the EWL does not dry up and stays put far longer then Breakfree. Try the EWL 30 or 50 which is MUCH thicker.


What's this, I though there was only one type?



There is now 3 types. The regular EWL whichis very thin like Breakfree. The EWL 30 and EWL 50 are newer thicker oils. The 30 and 50 are much thicker, almost a light grease. My favorite is the EWL50. I'll try to get pictures up.
4/22/2009 8:37:04 PM EDT
[#6]
Quoted:
I really could not understand what the difference between the two is after visiting their website. Can anyone who has used both explain the actual difference. See, I gathered that the EWL would be thicker since it was for "extreme" hard use. Being thinner goes opposite of what I imagined. This is part of the reason I have not bought any because I can't decide which one to get.


I'm no expert but I think the EWL has more EP additives then the Slip 2000 CLP does. It has a wider temp range and is overall a better lube. I really like the Slip 2000 CLP though......does it's job extreemly well so it's hare to make the switch tothe EWLwhen I have a lot of the SLIP CLP on hand.
4/23/2009 4:49:24 PM EDT
[#7]
Thanks.
4/24/2009 6:00:24 AM EDT
[#8]
After reading many reviews of various cleaning products I decided to give SLIP products a try.  I have always used Break Free as a result of my years of military service.  Now that I am a bit older and have a few more kids I was looking for something that I can use around the house that would be a little less harmful.  I guess the older I get, the more considerate I get.  In any event, Slip seemed to fit the bill>  I purchased a bottle and headed to the house to give my new gun its first cleaning.  I found in the process that I had a couple of questions and promptly sent them to Slip not fully expecting any detailed answers any time soon.  Boy was I wrong.  In less than 36 hours I received detailed answers to all my questions.  I am very happy with these products and even happier with their level of service.  

I just purchases a 32 oz bottle of your product in a spray bottle.  It is marked Slip 2000 Gun Lubricant/Cleaner/Preservative.  The label however does not look like any on your web site.  

We have designed and are using a new label for our Slip 2000 Gun Lube


I have the following questions.

Is the bottle that I have your CLP and is it recommended as an all in one product for general cleaning?

Recommended as a Lubricant, cleaner and preservitive. The USMC and many NG units have classified our lubes as a dry lube because it can be applied tho the metal parts and then wiped down dry to the touch.
We do not promote any special requirements to using our Slip 2000 Lubricant products.
Slip 2000 lubricant is a natural penetrant by the very nature of the product. We do tell you that as a gun is fired and it heats up, the metal pores of the steel open up and Slip 2000 will penetrate even deeper into the pores of the   steel.
We tell everyone,  Using Slip 2000 is like seasoning a good old cast iron frying pan, the more you use it, the less anything will stick to it.

Slip 2000 Lubricant as a all in one product offers much better corrosion protection   and cleaning capability the most other products today.  
It also does not attract dust, dirt or sand as a petroleum  product does.

Is it supposed to be of a thick consistency, compared to Break Free?

It is just slightly thicker then BF  (7 weight)

I am also looking for a gun lube and considering your EWL.  Can you recommend or send me a cleaning regimen along with what products you would recommend for an AR rifle.

If you are cleaning after every trip to the range or every 300-500 rounds, then the Slip 2000 Gun Lube is all you really need. However, if your not cleaning every trip and your round count is 500+ between cleanings you will see a longer lasting lube in our EWL. It will normally last 4-5 times longer then our regular Slip 2000 Gun Lube. The EWL will stay wet longer and help keep the carbon, copper and or plastic from sticking to the actions, chambers, BC group and the barrel.  
 

You will also find that after using Slip 2000 Lubricant  or our EWL 2 or 3 times, that nothing like carbon, copper or plastic   wad fouling wants to stick to the metal surface. If you will clean after you shoot every time or at least every few   hundred rounds, you will find that your guns clean up in half the amount of time and require a lot less effort and   product to clean them.  


When using our lubricants and lubing every 1000-2000 rounds, cleanup with our 725 Cleaner will be all you need in the barrel and actions. IF there is any stuborn carbon buildup on the bot or BCG then this can be cleand of with our Carbon Killer product. Carbon Killer was designed for the nasty baked on carbon. It is not a general purpose cleaner. It however is becoming widly used for cleaning the MK 19 and other weabons that have a serious carbon and or plastic fouling problem.


4/25/2009 6:13:37 PM EDT
[#9]
I just received a bottle of the "EWL" today and lubed my M&P15x up. I only put 67 rounds through it today (will do a lot more tomorrow) but so far it seems to be doing a better job than Breakfree CLP did. I only put a thin film on the parts but the coating is still intact and it appears to penetrate very well.
4/25/2009 6:57:37 PM EDT
[#10]
We do tell you that as a gun is fired and it heats up, the metal pores of the steel open up and Slip 2000 will penetrate even deeper into the pores of the steel.

4/28/2009 7:33:56 PM EDT
[#11]
Quoted:

We do tell you that as a gun is fired and it heats up, the metal pores of the steel open up and Slip 2000 will penetrate even deeper into the pores of the steel.



Yeah,

I was kinda wondering about that ...

4/29/2009 5:24:06 PM EDT
[#12]
Quoted:
Quoted:

We do tell you that as a gun is fired and it heats up, the metal pores of the steel open up and Slip 2000 will penetrate even deeper into the pores of the steel.



Yeah,

I was kinda wondering about that ...



Nope,

sat 3 is right.

Just like the seasoning of a cast iron frying pan, you have to heat the iron up for the seasoning to really take hold. This is something people have known from the days we first started using iron.  My grandmothers cast iron frying pan beats anything the "no stick" pans can do. Part of the seasoning of a new cast iron pan is heat the oven up to 500 and place the "coated" pan inside, the heat allows the "coating" to go deeper into the pores. Daniel Boone did it as did Lewis & Clark, they seasoned those pans before they took them.
4/29/2009 7:15:50 PM EDT
[#13]
Quoted:

Quoted:

Quoted:

We do tell you that as a gun is fired and it heats up, the metal pores of the steel open up and Slip 2000 will penetrate even deeper into the pores of the steel.



Yeah,

I was kinda wondering about that ...



Nope,

sat 3 is right.

Just like the seasoning of a cast iron frying pan
, you have to heat the iron up for the seasoning to really take hold. This is something people have known from the days we first started using iron.  My grandmothers cast iron frying pan beats anything the "no stick" pans can do. Part of the seasoning of a new cast iron pan is heat the oven up to 500 and place the "coated" pan inside, the heat allows the "coating" to go deeper into the pores. Daniel Boone did it as did Lewis & Clark, they seasoned those pans before they took them.


First of all, it's got nothing to do with  *sat3*  being "right" (or wrong, for that matter) about anything ... as he was not the one making assertions about "pores opening" ... rather, he was the one asking the questions.

RIF

Second, I'm gonna go out on a limb here and suggest that since cast iron skillets are made out of - uhmm, cast iron - and not 4140 / 4150 / stainless, barrel steel ... that it may be kind of a different deal.

4/29/2009 11:00:35 PM EDT
[#14]
Quoted:

Nope,

sat 3 is right.

Just like the seasoning of a cast iron frying pan, you have to heat the iron up for the seasoning to really take hold. This is something people have known from the days we first started using iron.  My grandmothers cast iron frying pan beats anything the "no stick" pans can do. Part of the seasoning of a new cast iron pan is heat the oven up to 500 and place the "coated" pan inside, the heat allows the "coating" to go deeper into the pores. Daniel Boone did it as did Lewis & Clark, they seasoned those pans before they took them.


http://www.kitchensavvy.com/journal/2005/02/seasoning_fryin.html
The oil fills any microscopic holes in the metal and then dries like a shellac, sealing the surface.

The oil that you use to season a frying pan is very different from the oil that you use to lube a gun.  On the frying pan, you are TRYING to get the oil to oxidize (heat hastens the process) to create a layer.  That is the reason for the heat.   You do not want your gun oil to turn into sludge or varnish.  

Metal is a solid crystalline structure.  It does not "absorb" things like a sponge.  And even if it did, it would simply squeeze out the excess when it cooled.

Also note that oil molecules are far smaller than ANY surface asperities you will find on metal.
4/30/2009 2:39:26 PM EDT
[#15]
Now people can criticize Slip2000 just like people criticize Militec!!
5/1/2009 11:56:33 AM EDT
[#16]
Quoted:
Now people can criticize Slip2000 just like people criticize Militec!!



Except Slip 2000 is a far better product and they are legitimately being tested at Aberdeen for Military use. No contest between the 2, Slip is far superior.

I can't explain the whole "pores" thing. Lots of gun oil manufactures use this kind of terminology.
5/3/2009 3:55:22 PM EDT
[#17]
I thought that the "commercial lubricant" testing at APG was completed sometime ago...and the standard issue CLP was found to work the best.

5/3/2009 4:48:16 PM EDT
[#18]

Was it tested strictly as a "lube" - or as a CLP  type product ...



Perhaps, more accurately stated as:


Quoted:

I thought that the "commercial lubricant" testing at APG was completed sometime ago...and the standard issue CLP was found to work the best ...

... as a CLP - all-in-ONE-product trying to do *everything* well, all at once ... in the field ... solution.



5/4/2009 12:26:57 AM EDT
[#19]
Quoted:
I thought that the "commercial lubricant" testing at APG was completed sometime ago...and the standard issue CLP was found to work the best.



Could be. It's been a while since I read their reports on their site.....maybe I'll drop them an email.
5/4/2009 2:22:19 PM EDT
[#20]
Quoted:

Was it tested strictly as a "lube" - or as a CLP  type product ...



Perhaps, more accurately stated as:


Quoted:

I thought that the "commercial lubricant" testing at APG was completed sometime ago...and the standard issue CLP was found to work the best ...

... as a CLP - all-in-ONE-product trying to do *everything* well, all at once ... in the field ... solution.





I cant remember the details,but it seems I remember that APG was testing commercially available products to determine if one of them would offer any performance gains in keeping weapons running in the current nasty environment they have found themselves trying to work in.
I dont think it was a CLP evaluation or T&E per se.Could be wrong though....its been years since Ive followed it all.
Im kinda shocked QUIB has not got a cartoon about it really.Seems Ive seen one recently.

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