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12/28/2008 7:07:36 PM EDT
Greetings.

I picked up one of the S&W 5.45 AR uppers, and after putting 50 some rounds of corrosive russian ammo through it, I doused the thing with a combination of water and windex (what I had on hand), then dried it as best I could.  After a thorough cleaning that evening, into the safe it went with dessicant and later a goldenrod dehumidifier.  

It sat in there for about a month, and I just checked on it today and while the bore and chamber look okay, the end of the barrel and the inside of the flash hider are pretty badly rusted (d'oh!).  I didn't think to give that area any special attention when cleaning, so I have no one to blame but myself, but what should I do now?  I tried to clean and scrape the rust off as much as I could tonight, and got some of it but I couldn't get far enough inside the flash hider to get all of it.  Can the flash hider come off, and if so, can it be reattached easily?


Also, please don't reply with "don't use corrosive ammo", that's not really a reasonable option.
12/29/2008 3:06:47 AM EDT
[#1]
yes comp can be removed easily depending the type pinned,pressed,screw on if its screwed on youll probably need a hand to hold rifle cause its pretty tight think its 60 or 65 ft.lbs.
12/29/2008 4:13:01 AM EDT
[#2]
Hit the rifle while your at the range with  something water based. Pour it down the barrel Bolt face and FS deal. Straight water is fine but you also need rust protection for a short period of time . So I bought some Ballistol . Mixed with water and you got your water base and protection till you can get her home and do a " GOOD SCRUBBING "  You can get it from Brownells and other places. I bough the tall can that you pour to make your own mixture . I believe the Germans came up with it during WWII. But that might be internet legend. Sorry about your rust. But shooting a high end rifle like yours I would buy some Ballistol and get a spray bottle from wally World in gardening  and mix you up some and protect her right. The water is the trick but you get the added rust protection from Ballsitol oil  till you get home. Water and Windex don't do nothing for rust during transit home and till you can clean.  Unless the FS is horrible , I would just hit it with BreakFree CLP aresol can and hit with a GI Toothbrush. Several times. I think you will be OK and not have to spend any money at this time. It's really only cosmetics on the FS. It will also serve as a reminder to properly clean everything  the GAS get a hold of. Good luck WarDawg
12/29/2008 3:22:23 PM EDT
[#3]
Ah yes......the joys of shooting cheap ammo..gotta love that rust thing
12/30/2008 10:56:52 AM EDT
[#4]
PMCS works only if you do it right.
12/30/2008 12:39:15 PM EDT
[#5]
Quoted:
yes comp can be removed easily depending the type pinned,pressed,screw on if its screwed on youll probably need a hand to hold rifle cause its pretty tight think its 60 or 65 ft.lbs.


I'm guessing the FS is screwed on, but are there tricks to removing/reattaching one that I should know?  Is it standard threading, and if I reattach it does it need loctite to stay on there?  Also, given that the rust is on the edge of the barrel, is there any risk of damage to the crown if I use a brass brush, or should I use nylon?



12/30/2008 2:13:03 PM EDT
[#6]
How does the rear of the bolt look?

you will need a new crush washer if you go and remove the FS.

1/2-28 thread IIRC
1/3/2009 12:00:25 PM EDT
[#7]
If the barrel is 16" or greater, the FH is likely threaded on.  You will need the proper size wrench attached to a very long breaker arm or lever, a vice, and barrel vice blocks.  You can make some vice blocks out of a piece of oak or other hard wood.  It will ake a lot of torque to get the FH off, so crank down that vice handle and lean into it.
1/3/2009 12:08:11 PM EDT
[#8]
I've only removed a few FH (<10) and they all removed rather ez using an adjustable 8" crescent wrench, with the FSB in a  maple padded vise.
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