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Posted: 10/9/2008 6:55:19 PM EDT
| im not sure which post i read, but they said they liked to use grease where they didnt want oil to run all over .is this a good idea if so what kind of grease. |
Another way I look at it: If the AR/M16/M4 was meant to be greased, it would be written in the manual.  The whole argument right now over lubrication, is what is the correct amount of oil to use. The Army under it’s leadership over the last decade or two has ignored the manual and led it’s soldiers to believe a dry weapon is better than a wet one, internally that is. I know from experience, I was one of those soldiers. Now grease on an AR from my experience, turns to sludge after an "X" number of rounds. The byproducts of firing simply have no where to go but accumulate in the grease, making it thicker and thicker, grittier and grittier. Oil on the other hand, keeps those byproducts of firing in suspension keeping your weapon running smoother. Imagine using grease in a desert environment, where you add sand into the mix. I’ve been there as well, and I can tell you, sand and grease don’t play well together. |
| I'm with Quip on this one. I'm a 1985-1989 U S Army guy. I was lead to believe the same as QuiB. Honestly if your going to just do some very light shooting , just go light on your lube. If your going to put 500 = rounds down range or in a competition deal, lube it exactly like the USGI Manuel states and you will be set up for success. I personally wouldn't use grease on an AR. While it will work , the oil is thinner and gets to where it needs to go and suspends the waste for a longer time period. Grease over a larger round count will be mush IMO. WarDawg |
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Quib, as respected as you are on this forum I dont want to disagree with you. However, I have learned from a handfull of Army Special Ops soldiers that TW25B is a God send in the desert. Paul Howe instructed us to be quite liberal with it in the AR (bolt carrier/rails). Personally, I use it on the rails and a thin coat on the bolt carrier. I havent had any issues with it attracting anything, however, my AR stays in the case and in my trunk most of the time. I know ive posted this Larry Vickers article on the subject several times but here it is again...Vickers lube article |
Whats funny there are other SOG that say the opposite. LOL. Punching paper I think some sunflower oil and maybe Crisco would be fine . If Vickers is talking Milcom 1 . I will never use that junk again. If it's another product , I have not used it and have no opinion. WarDawg |
You can disagree with me all you want. We all have our own opinions. You’ll find arguments on both sides of the table when it comes to using grease. Larry Vickers has his, you have yours, I have mine. |
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Everyone has their favorite weapons lube so this is the type of thread that will bring out many opinions from many who swear by their choice. If it works for you, use it. Tried TW25B in some of our issued M4's/Mp5's during weapons training and also in M4/M16's and MP5's at recreational machine gun shoots. Used the spray version to better facilitate the light coat recommended by the manufacturer. Both the weapons with TW25B and the weapons with issued CLP worked fine during routine weapons training and qualification. Upon cleaning, the TW25B weapons did appear to have a noticeably thicker accumulation of crud built up in and around the bolt and locking lugs than the CLP treated weapons. When exposed to much heavier firing that came along with the extended firing at the machinegun shoots, the M16's and HK's treated with TW25B began to have malfunctions sooner than the weapons treated with CLP ( beyond 300 to 400 rounds). Upon inspection, there was a heavier solid residue buildup on the bolts treated with TW25B than on the CLP treated weapons which ran noticeably longer with a lighter volume of built up residue. A couple drops of CLP in the CLP treated bolts allowed them to run again with no cleaning. The TW25B treated weapons touched up with additional TW25B spray ran for a brief bit but then continued to jam. This test was in no way scientific and is just an observation and personal opinion. The TW25B if applied properly (light coat) appears to work well for light range or typical LE duty use. The dryer coating appears that it may be less attractive to dust and dirt if working in a desert or dusty environment. The negative side (which probably will not apply to most) is the light grease appears to attract a steady buildup of crud that can create stoppages in "extended firing" situations. Full-Auto |
This was basically my findings as well when using Tetra Grease on my AR. I love the stuff on my pistol slides. But in/on my rifle bolt? No thanks. ETA: I have used Tetra on my trigger/hammer pins. That area remains clean enough that firing residue will not accumulate in the grease. |
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Please re-read post . It is not a statement for or against the application of greases merely my observation that greases have no innate or special ability to attract crud. thank you |
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You're thinking of Militec 1...the grease is different. Go to Mil-Comm for more info on this. |
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I dont know what spec op guys you talked to but it wasn't anyone in 5th SFG or Ranger Battalion. IMO Go with CLP, you can try different oils on the market, I have had best results with light coat of CLP on everything, I would even go as far as say stay away from anything as thick or thicker than LSA in normal or hot environments. In the Artic or something maybe LSA but nothing thicker. |
If you had read the article I posted you would see it was written by Larry Vickers. I was told the same by Paul Howe and other CT guys. This being said, I have not shot in a sandy environment to validate this but I think that advise from guys like Vickers and Howe is pretty reliable. |
| I think grease works well for home defense and light range shooting. Grease lasts longer in terms of time and will stay where it is put. Therfore when it is put in the closet with the muzzle pointing up for more then a week you will find the BCG still lubricated. Oil is great for military type shooting. Oil will last a lot longer if you are shooting more then 300 rounds. However oil will migrate down into your stock tube and evaporate if left in your closet for more then a couple days. I know we should clean our rifles every day but for life outside of the military I consider myself lucky if I can clean my rifle once a week. Grease will last and stay put for more then a month if you are not shooting. |
My cousin is Army SOG. Just got back from his second trip to Afghanistan. I asked him about grease used on there M4's and he just said who the HELL said that shit ...  WarDawg |
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I have used just about all of the different kinds of the lubes that I can get my hands on and always end up back to using the CLP. The thicker grease like lubes I have tried all make the rifle smoother to hand cycle when clean, but after about 100 rounds of anything it feels like contact cement! That is just my $0.02 but if you want to use it just be prepared to clean tar out of the rifle when you are done I guess page 2 is mine 
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