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2/28/2008 2:15:31 PM EDT
Is it naughty to use a wire brush or bore brush to remove heavy carbon buildup on back of the bolt?
2/28/2008 3:30:35 PM EDT
[#1]
A bronze bore brush or GI style bronze tooth brush, nope, not at all.

I use a mixture of BF CLP and odorless mineral spirits to soak my bolt in. It softens up the carbon making bolt cleaning a breeze.



2/28/2008 3:47:50 PM EDT
[#2]
It is safe to use a wire brush or bore brush to remove heavy carbon buildup on back of the bolt.

2/28/2008 5:20:05 PM EDT
[#3]
What is the best way to remove the build up all inside the carrier? I tried "Q tips" and solvent with a little success. Next time I will try your soak. Thanks
2/29/2008 12:37:17 AM EDT
[#4]

Quoted:
What is the best way to remove the build up all inside the carrier? I tried "Q tips" and solvent with a little success. Next time I will try your soak. Thanks


The best way is not to let build-up occur in the first place. By running the BCG WET with CLP, cleaning the carrier is as simply as covering it in dish-washing liquid and letting it set for 10 minutes and then spending a minute or two on it with a USGI green toothbrush small-end on the CL inside part and the large end on the outside . I then rinse it in HOT! water, let it air-dry, and CLP the snot out of it again for the next use. Just my ruitine.
2/29/2008 1:27:37 AM EDT
[#5]

Quoted:
What is the best way to remove the build up all inside the carrier? I tried "Q tips" and solvent with a little success. Next time I will try your soak. Thanks


I of course use the CLP/MS bath to wash off the carrier, letting it soak softens up the carbon.

Next I take my home made carbon scraper* and scrape away what carbon I can that has deposited it self at the bottom of the carrier.




I then follow up with CLP, q-tips, and finally a pistol patch draped over a large bore mop.




I never end up removing all the carbon inside the bolt carrier, but do get the majority of it. The thing with carbon build up is: If you plan on keeping it limited, then start cleaning it from day one. If you let it build up like some folks do, relying on it being self-limiting, then decide at a later date you want to start cleaning it off, you may be in for some work.


* My DIY carbon scraper is nothing more than an old section of aluminum cleaning rod secured in an Xacto knife handle. To make it, I flattened out one end with a hammer on top of my bench vice. Then used a file to contour the edges of the scraper to match the shape of the interior of the carrier where the carbon builds up.



2/29/2008 1:33:40 AM EDT
[#6]
I refrain from using water to clean weapons. My thoughts on that subject mirror the Army’s recommendations.



2/29/2008 8:24:42 AM EDT
[#7]

Quoted:
I refrain from using water to clean weapons. My thoughts on that subject mirror the Army’s recommendations.

img.photobucket.com/albums/v489/Metroliner/water8.jpg

img.photobucket.com/albums/v489/Metroliner/water.jpg


Do you think I will have a problem even given the fact that I hose the living snot out of the BCG with CLP afterwards? If so, I will change the ruitine!
2/29/2008 9:04:18 AM EDT
[#8]

Quoted:
Do you think I will have a problem even given the fact that I hose the living snot out of the BCG with CLP afterwards? If so, I will change the ruitine!


My opinion:

If your going to wash your rifle with soap and water, then douse it in CLP to prevent corrosion, why not just skip the water and use straight CLP.

Water and weapons just doesn’t sit well with me. Regardless of how well you think you eliminated all the moisture it still could be hiding in places you might not think.

I lived in TX and I know how humid it can get down there. The humidity in the air alone can be a challenge for gun owners. So why compound the possibility of corrosion by washing your rifle with soap and water.
2/29/2008 9:07:28 AM EDT
[#9]

Quoted:

Quoted:
Do you think I will have a problem even given the fact that I hose the living snot out of the BCG with CLP afterwards? If so, I will change the ruitine!


My opinion:

If your going to wash your rifle with soap and water, then douse it in CLP to prevent corrosion, why not just skip the water and use straight CLP.

Water and weapons just doesn’t sit well with me. Regardless of how well you think you eliminated all the moisture it still could be hiding in places you might not think.

I lived in TX and I know how humid it can get down there. The humidity in the air alone can be a challenge for gun owners. So why compound the possibility of corrosion by washing your rifle with soap and water.


Hrmmm, looks like I will be changing my ruitine. THANKS!

2/29/2008 6:31:04 PM EDT
[#10]
Thanks for the responses everyone. I knew you would chime in QUIB.
3/1/2008 5:29:14 AM EDT
[#11]

Quoted:
I knew you would chime in QUIB.




I hope in your eyes that's a good thing.
3/1/2008 6:47:23 AM EDT
[#12]

Quoted:

Quoted:
I knew you would chime in QUIB.




I hope in your eyes that's a good thing.


Well...you DID bring pretty pictures

Are most gas-keys chrome lined? Or is that more the exception than the rule?
3/1/2008 6:50:05 AM EDT
[#13]

Quoted:
Well...you DID bring pretty pictures


If I’m noted for anything it’s pretty pictures...... right? Something most members here don’t even bother going to the trouble to do.
3/1/2008 7:07:05 AM EDT
[#14]

Quoted:

Quoted:

Quoted:
I knew you would chime in QUIB.




I hope in your eyes that's a good thing.


Well...you DID bring pretty pictures

Are most gas-keys chrome lined? Or is that more the exception than the rule?


I've never saw a single Chromelined gas key.
3/1/2008 11:43:15 AM EDT
[#15]

Quoted:

Quoted:

Quoted:

Quoted:
I knew you would chime in QUIB.




I hope in your eyes that's a good thing.


Well...you DID bring pretty pictures

Are most gas-keys chrome lined? Or is that more the exception than the rule?


I've never saw a single Chromelined gas key.

Chrome Lined Gas Key
3/4/2008 3:46:24 PM EDT
[#16]
Quib, does the BF/MS mixture dry leaving a film of lube when you are finished or do you wipe it all down to dry it off.  I can see that even if it did leave a film behind you would have to relube the contact points on the carrier but I would like to know if it would leave enough of a film behind to protect the parts from corrosion.  
3/5/2008 5:24:12 AM EDT
[#17]

AnimalMother556 :

www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=3&f=7&t=358886&page=2
3/5/2008 5:35:33 AM EDT
[#18]
Hey all- I was about to post almost this same topic when I came across this thread.  How convenient .  Right now I use an Otis kit to clean my AR, which of course works well on the barrel/bore, but for those who know it it's a very "minimalist" system- a few drops of their CLP is what's recommended.  Which means, when it's time to get to the BCG, I don't really have a "big tub" quantity of cleaner to work with.  The reason I'd wanted to post this same topic was, after my first shoot (~200 rounds), I found the BCG grimy as hell, and was just thinking a bath or spraying of some sort would be much easier than intricately going into all the crevices.  (Or at least a bath to start so that crevice cleaning becomes much easier).

So, which brand of CLP, which comes in "large application size", so to speak, would you all recommend?

Thanks.
3/5/2008 5:38:24 AM EDT
[#19]

Quoted:
So, which brand of CLP, which comes in "large application size", so to speak, would you all recommend?



See my above pics.
3/5/2008 5:44:24 AM EDT
[#20]
Got it.  Missed the BF part.

As a starter, will I be okay actually using the BF CLP as my only cleaner, lubricant, and protectant?   What I mean is, I'm assembling a light portable field kit and would rather carry as few solvents/liquids as possible.  So, beyond my Otis, will a big spray jar of BF CLP suffice, or do I need any extra solvents or lubricants?

Many thanks,
BB  
3/5/2008 5:52:05 AM EDT
[#21]

Quoted:
I'm assembling a light portable field kit and would rather carry as few solvents/liquids as possible.  So, beyond my Otis, will a big spray jar of BF CLP suffice?


Yes, in the field a bottle of CLP will suffice. That’s exactly what CLP was designed for:

C- Cleaner
L- Lubricant
P- Preservative
3/5/2008 5:53:26 AM EDT
[#22]
Figured as much.  Just saw a lot of comments from you and others about needing/using other lubricants in addition, so wanted to check and be sure!
3/5/2008 5:58:50 AM EDT
[#23]
The only other lube I use on my AR’s, and this is strictly on the bolt and carrier, is Break-Free LP. LP which is a tad bit thicker than CLP, is void of the cleaning properties that CLP has.

CLP for a field kit is fine. I carry a small bottle myself for in the field.
3/5/2008 6:02:41 AM EDT
[#24]
Great.  Thank You!!
3/5/2008 11:21:10 AM EDT
[#25]

Quoted:

Quoted:
What is the best way to remove the build up all inside the carrier? I tried "Q tips" and solvent with a little success. Next time I will try your soak. Thanks


The best way is not to let build-up occur in the first place. By running the BCG WET with CLP, cleaning the carrier is as simply as covering it in dish-washing liquid and letting it set for 10 minutes and then spending a minute or two on it with a USGI green toothbrush small-end on the CL inside part and the large end on the outside . I then rinse it in HOT! water, let it air-dry, and CLP the snot out of it again for the next use. Just my ruitine.



Ive used the CLP since the 80`s
still get that carbon on the end of bolt

I use to love cleanig my WEAPON

I might do the soaking trick next time
But I use a SOLVENT or my trusty clp



I used HOT SOAPY WATER when I use corrosive 7.62 x39mm ammo
But like anyone I used CLP after that
3/6/2008 5:20:13 PM EDT
[#26]
I am doing a good soaking of the MS/CLP tonight for my bolts. How long should I let them soak for?
3/6/2008 6:03:00 PM EDT
[#27]
I have always let the bolt soak while I cleaned the rest of the rifle.  This has been a sufficient amount of time since I clean my rifles after every trip to the range.  Since using the Quib, MS/CLP method, it seems to require less time with better results.
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