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Posted: 11/30/2007 10:37:03 PM EDT
| What is better to use…jointed or solid cleaning rods? Or does it matter? Also is a standard .22 brush the best there is? At first it seems awfully tight… |
The best rod is a single piece, plastic coated rod. This won't scratch the bore. The .22 brush is tight for a reason... it needs to scrub HARD to get the work done. |
1- A solid cleaning rod is good. A solid coated cleaning rod is better. A jointed GI cleaning rod is also fine IF you know what to avoid during use. 2- Like some things in life, tighter is better. A bore brush needs to be tight to do it’s job. Do not worry about causing damage to your rifle. The bronze bristles of your bore brush are a lot softer than the barrel material or chrome lining of any AR barrel. |
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A coated cleaning rod has the potential to retain very small pieces or copper or brass. Holding onto this metal and running it down your bore kinda negates the benefits of using a coated rod after a while. There are synthetic rods out there that don't need to be coated and won't hold any scrap metal. My favorite is a Tipton's rod, made from carbon fiber with a nice bearing handle... flexes a little, no raised areas from threaded joins, very stiff when you push or pull it. I'm just throwing this out there. |
I know some folks love the Tipton rods but the only one I ever had broke at the handle the first time I ever used it and I have heard this from others as well. |
| Pro-Shot makes really nice one piece stainless rods. With any rod you should use a rod-guide to protrct the muzzle from inadvertant "rubbing " damage from a cleaning rod. I'm a big proponent of the Otis pull through systems and I even use a rod guide with those. Pro-shot is top quality but a bit hard to find. Do a google and buy direct from them. |
Is there proof of this or is it a theory? Tiny particles of bras or copper damaging a chrome plated bore?? The rod is a bit smaller than the bore diameter so it would need to be some really big particles. I can;t imagine this happening. Besides, you should wipe down the rod after each use. |
I said potential... but it's not a theory either. What's the biggest flake of brass you've ever had in your barrel extension? How many times would you like to run it down your bore? What if it's a grain of sand that's embedded in your coating? You know... embedded, meaning you can't wipe it off. I don't want to imagine it either... but that won't keep it from ever happening. ETA: I see a lot of complaints from shooters that use touted Dewey rods. They're coated with nylon for crying out loud. You can basically peel the stuff off with your fingernail if you have the time and inclination. Those are the rods I have a bone to pick with. I have seen users with some really nice coated rods too though... one of the dudes I shoot with has a Tetra rod that has a Corvel powder-coating to it. It was slick, stiff and the handle spun great. Same price as a Dewey rod. |
It'll bend and it'll nick... both are bad. ETA: I am talking about the rod getting nicked and bent, not the barrel. |
Wear is wear is wear. A nick will provide uneven wear... brass nicks and bends badly, I didn't say it would nick the barrel. If you're picky enough to care about what sort of rod is safe to use on your barrel, you're probably picky enough to care about small amounts of uneven wear. |
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I prefer the solid rod, but if the joints line up correctly and you use it carefully, I think they are OK (aluminum, I'm not a fan of using the steel GI kits unless you have to). I might try out an Otis system. I heard a lot of good about the Dewey rods, but mine is starting to peel. Concerning the fit of the rod in the bore, does anyone else use a .17 rod for their .22's and .223's? I prefer the smaller fit so it's not constantly rubbing the bore. |
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Eight years with various caliber BoreTech rods and no nicks, cuts, flaking etc. Pro-Shot makes .22 brushes for both the .22 rimfire and .22X center-fire. There is a difference. www.proshotproducts.com/catalog.html  |
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