AR Sponsor
Posted: 6/20/2007 11:26:14 AM EDT
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Bought a bottle of Militec-1, as that is what my brother-in-law stationed out in the sandbox likes and says works good for him. The instructions say to fire the rifle to get it up to operating temperature, and have the Militec do its best bonding. Does heating the metal open its "pores" somehow? I disassembled my new Bushmaster and did a thorough cleaning (only 60 rounds thru -- it's brand new). While it was apart, I applied a thin coat over all of the metal surfaces. I then heated the oven to 150 degrees. I put all of the parts in the oven and heated them up for 5-10 minutes, until things were decently hot. After doing this, I wiped it all dry. I then _l i g h t l y_ lubricated moving parts and contact wear surfaces and reassembled. Does this seem to be appropriate application of Militec-1? Do you believe it can enhance reliability? I live in the desert (Utah and Idaho areas) and thought this might be the best stuff for me. |
I hate to tell you this but the best way to apply Militec is in the trash can. Militec is garbage. If you think about the marketing hype of how you "heat it to activate the oil". They say to bake it in the oven of use a heat gun on it. What soldier in the field has acess to an oven or hair drier? None that I know! They also say you can acctivate the oil by shooting the weapon and heating it up that way. Why would you clean a gun oil it up and then shoot it making it dirty all over again just to "activate the oil"? Plus the soldier might not be able to fire the weapon for what ever reason. Militec has ZERO ZERO ZERO rust protection also. The company has flat out lied in their marketing and have been caught in other lies. There are som many better oils/lubes to be had...skip the Militec junk. |
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I can understand what you are saying about it have no rust preventative. I do believe you guys when you say that. But can it truly be all that bad? Some of the comments lead me to believe that many think it will do my rifle more harm than good. Honestly, I'd rather use motor oil or transmission fluid or even brake fluid than use nothing. It may not be ideal for the environment inside a firearm, but it DOES lubricate metal parts. Do you think the guys at Militec are trying to pull the wool over our eyes, and sell us something that would harm our firearm? Do you have reports of it doing bad things to people's firearms? Because if so, I would like to hear. If I spent 15 dollars on a bottle of oil that is going to make my firearm not operate properly, I want to know about it. What say ye? |
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i've used militec on my first AR, an FAL, a mossberg 500 and never had a problem... on my first AR i treated the bolt carrier as per their instructions... applied militec to the carrier and heated with a hair dryer... it left no oily residue yet the firearm functioned fine... i probably shot close to 1000 rounds with about 5 drops of militec on the BCG... |
 You don't actually have to use a product to do research about it and find out the true facts about a product before you buy it.For the hundredth time: Militec is a chlorinated Extreme Pressure chemistry designed to be used in other base oils. This is easily confirmed since the exact same product that they sell to be used as an additive which is diluted into 5 quarts of motor oil, is sold to gun users to be used at full strength. A lot of chlorine there since is designed to be diluted into another base oil. And because of that, it does not need extra corrosion protection or cleaning ability. It is NOT a stand alone product, and with high chlorine content + water comes a real chance at HCl, a powerful acid that will rust metal in no time. If 8 ounces of Milicrap in 5 quarts of motor oil will supposedly help your engine (in which it is not needed), why do they want you to use it full strength on your guns? And why do they want you put an EP additive in radiator?? 
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| I use Militec and my son and nephews in Iraq and Afghanistan use it. They don't heat but follow the directions I gave which is to clean with CLP then take Militec on a patch and rub into the bore untill it is warm. The same with the bolt and the feed ramps. Wipe it dry so it doesn't attract sand. This stuff works and works quite well. |
How do you rub it into the bore till it's warm? Do you mean you rub so hard and fast the friction heats it up? I mean no disrespect but that sounds almost impossible and very impractical. Tell you family members thanks for serving! 
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+1 You have to get the chlorine additive up to ~200F in order for the "bonding" magic to happen. That's some pretty serious stroking!! Plus, the EP additive is not as effective on chrome as it is on bare steel.
Bring em' on!!  
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i have been using it on my ar bolt and my CCW 1911 for a few years. i do use a torch to heat the metal slightly before applying. even when dry the slide rails on my 1911 do seem significantly smoother than when normaly dry without lube. i don't think it's practical for the average grunts, but i also don't think it's smoke and mirrors either. i ended up with 5 of the free sample packs they gave out a couple of years ago and am still using that up. is it better than CLP for general use? probobly not. does it work as advertised as a LUBE.... yes it does IMHO. i will also agree it is utterly useless for corrosion protection but i don't rely on it for that. |
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You can't argue with this guys experience and hard use, here is what he has to say about lubrication and MILITEC. From Larry Vickers site... TACTICAL TIPS Weapon Lubrication Far and away the most common problem I see when instructing is lack of proper lubrication. This goes for civilians, LE, and military. Of the groups I train on a regular basis military Spec Ops definitely understands the importance of lube the most but it is still common to find weapons not lubricated properly. And what I mean by properly is having lube in/on the working parts of the weapon. Many weapon systems will not tolerate lack of lubrication and continue to function for any length of time. The US military M16/M4 family and M9 pistol are prime examples of two weapons that do not work well or for long without lubricant. Another example is tightly fitted custom or semi custom 1911 pistols. Simply put these weapons and others REQUIRE lubricant to function reliably - no way around it. There are weapons that do not require alot of lubricant to function reliably. The AK family and Glock pistols come to mind. Also HK does extensive testing for reliable function with little or no lube so by and large HK weapons are very forgiving to lack of lubricant by design. However too many shooters rely on that as standard operating procedure and don't assess the situation correctly; these guns are designed to continue to function without lube in EXTREME (not daily) conditions but every weapon works better with lubricant. The golden rule in weapons lubricant is you can run a gun dirty and wet, but not dirty and dry. Truer words have never been spoken about weapons lubricant. Guns always work better the cleaner they are but most modern designs are far more forgiving about carbon fouling than they are about lubrication. Remember to keep it lubed always and clean it when you can and you will be much better off over the long haul. The topic of keeping a weapon dry in desert environments comes up quite often. Sand is the ultimate enemy of guns and can wreak havoc with modern small arms. I have been part of extreme weapons testing and can tell you that I have no doubt in my mind that in sandy environments you are much better of with a gun that is wet than one that is dry. Having sand coat your small arm like a sugar cookie with some lubricant still in place is a better situation than a completely dry weapon in a sandy environment. Your weapon may still malfunction but not anything like it would if it was bone dry. It is unbelievable how non functional a dry weapon can become in an extreme sandy environment. It will become manually operated at a bare minimum. Your best bet for a functional weapon in extreme conditions is to keep it lubed and keep it covered. It may take longer to employ the weapon depending on the cover used but it will most likely work when you need it to. Last thing I will cover is choice of lubricant. First off any lube is better than no lube. Just because you don't have your favorite synthetic gun oil doesn't mean you don't lube your weapon. With that being said in my experience the thin light lubes like WD40 and RemOil are to be avoided. They will provide a rust barrier and that is about it; they are not suitable for moving parts lubricant. There are alot of lubes on the market but I still like TW25B for a grease type lube and Militec for a wet lube. My friend Ken Hackathorn swears by aircraft grade Lubriplate and has used it for years as a grease type lube. The grease type lubricants require more effort to apply but tend to stay put longer. TW25B is superb for crew served weapons like belt feed machine guns and is the best lubricant I have ever seen for sandy or wet environments. In my old unit we affectionately call it 'desert jizz' because once we started using it the reliability of our belt fed weapons increased dramatically in extreme environments such as the desert. Highly recommended. There are times where applying a grease lubricant is a pain such as high volume range fire sessions. For those applications as well as general purpose use I have used and like Militec wet lube. From my experience it works well even in temperature extremes and is the right balance between being too thin to do the job and so thick it gums up when cold. Keep in mind it is easy to apply so it is easy to come off also. With wet lubes like Militec you have to lubricate your weapon more frequently than with a grease like TW25B. Please don't get your panties in a bunch since I did not mention your pet lubricant. I am sure there are dozens of excellent lubricants on the market I am not aware of that do a great job; I am simply stating what has worked for me with very good results for many years. In parting I would remind you to remember two key points about weapons lube; any lube is better than no lube and you can run a gun dirty and wet (or lubed) but you cannot run one dirty and dry. Abide by these two rules and they will do you right |
| friend of mine applied MiliTec1 on his AR just like the instructions said. He shot the piss out of it right after. When charging the CH it is slick as butter. It wasn't like this before he used it. He still uses regular CLP for rust protection but I think the Militec1 smoothed things out considerably. |
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I've had no problems with it. I bought a new RRA 14.5 incher awhile back and I broke it in with Militech-1. That action is smooth as butter now. After shooting now, I clean with the bore Hoppe's #9 AND CLP, I use Cleanzoil on the exterior and I finish with Militech-1 as a lubricant on the internals, in particular, the bcg, bolt and charging handle. Oh, BTW, when I ordered from Militech-1, I signed my order with "Semper Fi, USMC 1983-89". A day later, I received an email from Militech customer service stating that my credit card had been credited the full amount of the cost of the Militech AND shipping and they thanked me for my service in the Marines back in the eighties. They sent me the Militech for free. Henceforth, I've been pleased with it as a lubricant-- remember that that's what it is, a lubricant; not a corrosion resistor or a cleaning agent. Edit: typo. |
| I like the stuff, and ahve been very satisfied with it's lubrication peformance. True, it's worthless as rust preventative, but I'm not worried about that. 5 Drops per 1K rounds has been working very well for me for the last 16K rounds, CLP never did that for me. |
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I have used a good bit of it. I used it on my M-4 in Astan for a year and it worked very very well. I liked it because it was thicker than CLP and would not dry out as rapidly. It also seemed to stay put better. I never did bake it in or anything like that but it still worked well. Clean with CLP, lube with MilTech. Keep it wet. |
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Here we go again. Especially the fanboys and their comments about how it's a LUBE and not a rust preventative. And again, I'm sure that none will answer this question. If they've lied about it's rust preventative properties, and it's ability to retard fouling, why should I believe in their claim that it's actually a good lube? And yes, I've used it for year. And I've had rust with it, even when the bore was wet with it. And I mean wet, not damp. As in running a wet patch through the barrel and leaving it like that. Not subjected to salt water, or rain, just some condensation from going from cold to hot places. I've tested it on M16's and SAW's. And it does jack shit to reduce the carbon buildup. Their brochure about not needing any solvent or CLP type cleaners is nothing but pure bullshit. This is way beyond the typical hyperbole that is used in almost all advertising. It's almost downright lying IMO. The only test that it seems to do well on is that stupid one with the spinning rod and the amount of pressure needed to stop it. The same test that plain bleach will do very well on as well. And for the fanboys, read this again. I'm not saying to use bleach as a lube. Please don't start that crap again. I'm just saying that it's a nearly worthless test. |
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no "fanboy" here. I got a great deal on a rather large bottle of it when a local gun/hardware store changed owners. I use it every time I clean my firearms (pistols and rifles...especially the BCG which gets Rigs gun grease on locking lugs). It's a fantastic lubricant, but not a great rust inhibitor. I wipe parts with a CLP-soaked cloth to prevent rust. To be fair, I have yet to apply it according to instructions. |
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Just sent 4 bottles to my nephews, wouldn't do it if I didn't think it worked well and they wouldn't use it if it didn't wrk. I also sent them each 4 cans of EEZOX which I think is the best cleaner protectant. If we got into an EEZOX-Militec squable for the best all arund then I'd vote EEZOX. |
I've never used Militec for the same reason I've never shot up heroin. I don't need to experience firsthand why it's bad for you, I just know it is. What percentage choroparaffins does Brad Giordani stick into his shit product? What is his buffer chemistry to prevent HCl corrosion? Militec is shit, and like heroin or methanol moonshine I don't have to try it to know it. Looking forward to one of Mr. Giordani's nasty e-mails, Blank... Best, Romulus |
gunscrubber's great for blasting brass and powder residue out of the lower receiver and from around the FCG. I'll use it blast crud out of the bolt carrier and bolt prior to sitting down with a brush and Hoppes. That being said, it isn't the "end all be all". It doesn't clean barrels thoroughly and it dries so fast that lots of the gunk isn't carried completely away. It's good for the initial blast provided you follow up with a thorough cleaning. JMHO, ymmv |
| i got a question about the lubes....how does metalshield and M pro 7 compared to militech? anyone used them? metalshield rep on m14 forum.com is giving out free samples in the mail. I've used up all the breakfree so I'd get everyone's experience on the subject before I start spending on new stuff. thanks |
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Militec doesn't have rust protection, true. Rust was never a problem in Iraq for the guys we were with. This was the product to use and everyone I knew wanted it. Militec even sent a case to use after our Col. wrote a letter to them. The stuff works in that environment very well. Everything else, would attract dirt, the dirt over there is like talcum power. So maybe state side you can treat you weapon with it and then use your favorite lube and rust protection product. No harm done. All I can relate is my experience using the stuff in a desert environment. ETA: Dang wasted my 1911 post I had plans for it.  |
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